'71 CB100/125 (the un scooter)

all the parts are back from the blaster. now to get them primed and painted and the assembly can begin.
here is a link to a site I have found very helpful http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb100-super-sport-k0-1970-usa_model407/partslist/ I am a visual guy and use their parts explosions along with the downloaded factory manual. I have had to get some parts from them, pricy and high shipping but they were the only place i gould find a nos trans idler gear and nos valves for my 122 cc motor that came with the bike. I have decided to finish the rebuild on it and keep it as a spare. I also have the 100 and it is all broken down. if you need any of those parts let me know.
 
Got to painting today. Finished the motor covers, pe
Pressed in new seals and buttoned it up. Just need to install the points and advance mechanism when the new stainless Allen heads arrive. I have used alleys for the points screws before and I really simplifies changing points since the screws don't strip and they stay on the Allen key for easy installation.
Also primed the fenders and got the vht satin chassis/roll bar paint on the lower triple tree, the front motor mount and the tail light.
 

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Lookin great.

and I just swapped my points adj screws to stainless allen heads this morning.

Great minds must think alike!
 
Got,some more thing painted. 3 coats of chassis/rollbar satin. Once it dries it seems really durable. I did the rear brake lever except the foot pad. I have noticed on many do these small Honda builds that the chrome lever kind of overtakes the right side of the bike. The dime city tail light was shiny powder coat and just didn't look rite. While I was dealing with it I crimped on new Honda style connectors and replaced the Phillips screws with stainless allens and self locking nuts. I tend to get carried away with small details most people never notice.
 

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Almost at the end of frame painting. A couple more coats and then it needs to sit for 48 hours. I have a little grunge to clean off of the bottom of the motor then after setting the valves and points it's ready to go in to the frame.
 

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^^^^^^^^^^....whoa, seeing that frame hanging brings back memories....^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Cool, you'll have her back up and running in no time.
 
It is now. Got a 6v led 1157 replacement from super bright leds. Also got the 6v leds for the indicator conversion and gauge bulbs from them. It works great.
 
45exmayor said:
It is now. Got a 6v led 1157 replacement from super bright leds. Also got the 6v leds for the indicator conversion and gauge bulbs from them. It works great.


Can you post a link?

Thanks.
 
Cool thanks. I've been searching for a 6 volt tail like that. I'll go your route when the time comes.
 
Made some good progress on the frame today. Pressed in the races for the tapered steering bearings using a threaded rod with big washers. Got them in strait and most of the way. Finished setting them with a large socket upside down, a short extension and a dead blow hammer. Next was the new swing arm bushings. Put a C clamp in the workmate and used a deep socket with an extension for leverage. That got them most of the way in. Finished them up with the swing arm bolt with large washers on each side. Seems really good, no side play then installed in the frame.
Next week I will set the motor in th frame. Going to try a new idea. Last time I had the frame on the pit bull standard and lifted the motor with a small floor jack. It was a pain. This time, I will set the motor on an upside down milk crate and lower th frame over it by letting down the straps it is hanging from the floor joists with. That should give more wiggle room getting the 2 rear bolts in and eliminate the risk of the motor slipping and falling off of th jack. More later on how it worked out. The seat pan is at the upholsterers and should be back this week. Need to get my friend going on the wheels and finish up the wiring. At this point in the project I am really glad I spent the extra time bagging and labeling when I tore it apart. It appears I haven't lost or thrown out anything YET!
 

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I did the same. Assembled frame/forks/wheels. Laid engine down on rags then placed frame over engine.

Let the "electric white tail deer skinner" do all the heavy lifting. ;)
 
Got the valves and points set and the motor installed back in the frame. The milk crate trick didn't work (not enough room to fit the bottom rear bolt) so I followed trek's lead and set the motor on the floor. Also covered the front motor mount tube with three layers of painters tape to keep,from scratching it. A little alignment with a punch and lol the bolts slipped in. The po had braised the huge '76 muffler to the head pipe so I need to get the brazing off and clean the end of the pipe before I can fit a cone engineering quite muffler. I have read all of the builds saying that I need to run a stock air box and pipe. But I don't have the stock box, the '76 box I got with the motor won't fit my frame and I have always had a tendency to try different things since I was a kid building drag cars in SoCal in the '60's. And since I have lots of time I will work to sort it out. First I will put an extension on the carb to create a velocity and if I am not satisfied with that I will try an oval k&n that has more volume.
Included a pic of the "tool" I used to install the steering races in the head tube.
 

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^^^^^^dayyyyyum dude^^^^^^^^^^^^

You, trek, and jb are putting me to shame on my little CB100.

Oh well.................Looks good...you'll have her up and running, riding in no time.
 
I was thinking about extending the carb inlet the last two days. What type of material you looking to try. I was thinking of trying to find a radiator hose with the same diameter as the carb and working from there.
 
Now I dont know nothing about the mechanically operated slides. But, I am willing to bet you wont have too much trouble jetting and adjusting needle to get her to run decent. Since you are physically in control of both slide lift (air flow) & needle position (fuel metering). Unless of course...tweaking comes down to a needle taper issue.

Vacuum operated slides like the 360 is what gives the fits. Its all about atmospheric pressures and stuff like that. When things breathe easier the slides lift too early dumping fuel in before rpms have built enough for consumption...I believe. ;)

BTW. My 100 is bone stock intake and exhaust...and staying that way.
 
JB
I was thinking of trying to find some thin wall aluminum tubing and clamp it over the carb and slide the filter over that. I think a 3 to 31/2 inch extension will create a velocity stack that should smooth the air flow.
 
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