jpmobius said:Try bleeding the brake fluid at the banjo bolt at the MC. It is messy, so get lots of protection. If the action is not confidence inspiring, there is air. Possibly you will have to continue bleeding air out of the caliper, but my money is on air at the MC itself. My process is barbaric, but quick, easy and works 100% of the time so far (in hundreds of applications at least). For this bike, fill with brake fluid and after stuffing crazy amounts of paper towels around the caliper crack the bleed screw. Hold your finger over the outlet of the bleed screw and pump the lever. Use your finger like a one way valve on the bleeder. After a few pumps, and there is no need to coordinate the person pumping with the person bleeding - just give it a few full slow pumps and don't worry about sucking air back on the down stroke, your finger will keep that from happening. Close the bleeder and bleed the banjo bolt at the MC. All should be fine if the MC was maintained with fluid. I use basically the same method on everything with hydraulic brakes. Cars take about 15 minutes with all new brakes, MC and dry lines. Messy, but not really much more than with drain lines, collection bottles, pumps etc. And the only thing to clean is the spill and vehicle which is tiny if you are careful. I have NEVER needed a vacuum pump or had to "back fill" any brake system on any kind of vehicle - though I have had some stubborn cooling systems !
Lovely job your doing here - keep it coming!
clem said:On an unresponsive or erratic tach or speedometer you can soak a cotton ball in kerosene and place it in one of the back light holes. Place the gauge upright for a few days and it will oil it up without disassembly.
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jpmobius said:A common reason for the bowls overflowing is the float mechanism hanging up. Make sure the floats slide smoothly on their pins obviously, but closely examine the brass arm. If there are ANY wear marks on either the arms where the float pins push on them or on the tab that pushes on the needle, smooth them out perfectly flat with a fine file or sandpaper block and then polish them smooth with at least #600 sandpaper. Both areas tend to wear only where the fuel level is maintained, and the tiniest hump or notch will keep adequate pressure from the needle. Also a good idea to polish the needle and seat with a Q-tip and rubbing compound as well as the bore for the needle. Always use OEM needle and seat assemblies as aftermarket parts are often slightly different in assembled length which screws up the geometry for proper fuel level, though unless you see actual wear or damage to the ones you have you won't need to replace them to correct the problem. Often it is perceived that replacing the assembly cures the overflow issue, when actually the tiny physical difference in the parts moves the set point slightly enough to no longer hang the mechanism at previous wear point.
clem said:On an unresponsive or erratic tach or speedometer you can soak a cotton ball in kerosene and place it in one of the back light holes. Place the gauge upright for a few days and it will oil it up without disassembly.
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teazer said:How do the floats touch the bowl and stick? There's not a huge amount of clearance in there but they can't touch unless they are quite badly bent.