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Recent Posts

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1
Loungin at da club / Re: Help me find spark on my SR500
« Last post by scott s on Today at 12:59:07 »
 I'm not 100% sure of what all he's tried, but every time I relay these suggestions, he says he's tried it. He's a pretty good mechanic.
 I tried turning it in 2nd gear at home, before taking it to him.

I'm beginning to suspect the flywheel. I noticed when working on it that the magnetic field is weak. It barely pulls on a screwdriver or Allen wrench and is certainly NOT strong enough to hold one firmly.
My mechanic has had the flywheel off to replace the stator, but I haven't. I don't know how strongly it pulls when replacing in on the crank/stator.

I found this online:
"Have you considered the possibility that the magnets on the flywheel may be weak or lost their field?
If the unit has been dismantled for any decent period of time and left separated,the field may have degraded.
It used to be recommended to either leave a flywheel magneto all together or put a bar across to preserve the magnetic field.

Good magnets should strongly and quickly pull a spanner held in your hand onto themselves and be a bit difficult to remove it.

Weak magnets will result in a weak and erratic spark.
"

Mine is NOT that strong, from what I remember. I've worked on some CB/CL350's and the rotor on them is strong enough to pull and hold a wrench. My SR500 is NOT.

If the flywheel has lost its magnetism, then what?
The parts fiche lists the flyhweel/stator/magneto as a unit. Even IF I wanted to find a used one, I'd have to make sure it matched my stator, and then there's no guarantee it's good.
Is there a way to re-magnetize the flywheel? Are there any shops in the US that can do that for me?
2
Bodywork / Painting / Plating / GB250 fuel tank on GB500/XBR?
« Last post by Soulpilot on Today at 12:56:50 »
Hello Gents n Ladies, anyone here has ever tried to fit the fuel tank of a Honda GB250 on a GB500 or XBR? You can get those tank from China and I would like to fit them on my XBR. after buying 4 Tanks that did not fit I hope that someone can help here!

Cheers

Martin
3
Loungin at da club / Re: Help me find spark on my SR500
« Last post by teazer on Today at 12:53:39 »
In top gear the motor turns slowly.  He needs to try second gear with the plug out.

Loss of magnetism could certainly be an issue.

Did he try for a spark with the coil wired directly to the CDI - that would identify any shorts in the kill side of the circuit.
4
Electrical / Re: sr 400 wiring
« Last post by teazer on Today at 12:50:49 »
3GW is the SR400 is it not?  I'm not familiar with different years and models to know the changes, but you could look at any site with parts lists and see what igniter box was fitted to which year of production to see if there are changes. Then you could match the harness or replacement CDI to the bike.

Sometimes the internal circuits were changed to give different advance curves but some models of Suzuki for example changed from mechanical advance to electronic advance so you may need a different CDI box aka "Igniter".

How many connectors does your CDI have and now many appear in the wiring loom? What year is your bike and what is teh model number (first few letters/numbers of engine number should tell you that.
5
Cafe Racers / Re: Am I the Pontius Pilate of this CX500?
« Last post by Sonreir on Today at 12:42:27 »
Cheers for that.

Having an increasingly difficult time competing with a lot of the junk available on Amazon and eBay, but for those who don't mind spending a few extra dollars to get high quality parts and supplies, I really do think we fit the bill.

I started working on motorcycle electrics (professionally) about five years ago and during that time I tried a few different suppliers for connectors and terminals and while many of the sources were cheaper, none matched the quality. From personal experience, I know that the electrical system is not one of those areas where you want to skimp. It's false economy.
6
Electrical / Re: sr 400 wiring
« Last post by Sonreir on Today at 12:34:13 »
If you're not able to find instructions for the 3GW unit (which I assume is aftermarket), you might want to go back to a stock CDI box.
7
Loungin at da club / Re: Help me find spark on my SR500
« Last post by scott s on Today at 11:20:04 »
 Relayed a few of these suggestions to my mechanic. He says he did try turning the rear wheel in high gear.

 He's going to look into the magnetism thing. He works on old Triumphs and has seen them charge like shit when the rotor gets weak.
8
Loungin at da club / Re: Help me find spark on my SR500
« Last post by wozza on Today at 11:15:01 »


 If the magnetism is weak, what can you do about it?
There are a few places that can re magnetize em google prob the way to go, if there are magnets bonded to the flywheel these can be replaced....prob easiest to find a nos unit or better 2nd hand replacement....But first you need to sort out if thats the issue :D ...It tends to be heat that ends up killing the magnetization, lots of hot runs/heat cycles over many years or owners using a blow torch to heat up the flywheel to remove it 
9
Loungin at da club / Re: Help me find spark on my SR500
« Last post by scott s on Today at 09:45:18 »
Have you tried removing the plug and checking the spark with the bike in  high gear and spin the rear wheel ?
sometimes the magnetic field is weak and the kick starter cant spin her fast enough to throw a spark..push starting can sometimes work....
also have a look ere maybe there is something that will help
https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/8213-78-sr500-no-spark/


 I have not tried that.
 I have wondered about the magnetism of the rotor. When I touch a screwdriver or allen wrench to the rotor, I can feel a slight tug, but not strong. I've worked on a few CB/CL350's and the rotors on those bikes are strong enough to grab a wrench or screwdriver.

 If the magnetism is weak, what can you do about it?
10
Loungin at da club / Re: Help me find spark on my SR500
« Last post by scott s on Today at 09:30:44 »
As I understand the system there's two connectors from the stator.  One with white wires is the battery charging, so we can ignore that.  The other connects to the CDI and includes connections from the charge coils and the pulse coil that tells the CDI to fire.

The CDI has another connector with 3 pins that goes to the coil but also connects to the kill/run switch.  I would try to connect a matching connector with just 2 wires to the coil and patch that to the coil to temporarily eliminate all the other wiring and then spin the rear wheel fast to check for spark.

 OK, thanks for the suggestion. I'll relay this to the shop.
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