Enfield Tracker: War Pig Rennaissance

That was the thought at first but it kind of looks weird out there too. Can't do it off the stanchion aft of the crowns due to tank clearance.

Best options seem to be fore of the crown clamped to fork leg, or way down on the downtube under tank. But the cable word be an issue near the tank, and it might as well be visible while riding. I will talk to my machinist about making a clamp.
 
Electrics tray shaping up

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After almost inducing an aneurism trying to mount my header...and failing miserably...I knocked this up to hold the tach. Ghetto fabrication at its best, but it is stout and positions the tach pod where I wanted it. Just two flat strips of 6061 and big fat pop rivets.
 
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Hey, that thing in my driveway resembles a motorcycle now! Long way to go on the rear brake setup, which is my remaining major project.

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Wire runs tidied with high-temp split conduit...originally thought it would look ghetto, but even if true, it looks a lot better than anything else I tried, and is so much easier to use...

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Bent up the included speedo bracket to attach to my dash. Better than the fork leg solutions I tried; all I need it for is the odo anyhow.

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Supertrapp looks cool, but I need a better header fabbed and mounts made. Header will probably be mild steel, painted black or silver or whatever I can get.
 
hahahaaaahaaa. haaaaahaaaahahaaa. Oh, boy. That's a good one.

Major work to complete:

-Rear brake tab and spacer fabrication, brake assembly and some minor machine work to make bolts and linkages fit
-Exhaust header fab and muffler mounting

Minor but still time-consuming stuff (front to back):

-Re-dish front wheel to center
-Install fender
-Replace headset cups and dust cover, machine stem nuts to fit
-Install front brake (thankfully complete and bled) and disc
-Speedo light wiring (need some tiny connectors for the 20ga leads)
-Once it arrives, install decomp cable then final install of decomp unit into head
-HT lead coil to plug
-Shock, tank, seat hardware in place for final install
-Chain on
-Toolboxes on
-Chainguard on
-Drain transmission and put in new gaskets on plug and case to stop [negligible] seeping.


Actually, that list isn't so bad. Rear brake is the big hurdle. Exhaust will just be something I pay someone else to do, but I see an ordeal getting the header to seal on the head; it's a friction-fit, like some 70s Triumphs. Shimming and RTV always seem to be involved, regardless of how careful and exact I try to be.

The rest is housekeeping-ish, but working conditions just suck with all the dust and the bugs and shitty lighting I really can't improve on. Weekends are my big time to work, but have to balance that all with keeping the family in tune too.
 
Looking good X! Sounds like you don't have a whole lot left before she's ready to ride. What exactly is the issue with the rear brake?
 
High On Octane said:
Looking good X! Sounds like you don't have a whole lot left before she's ready to ride. What exactly is the issue with the rear brake?

The issue is getting a way to mount the disc brake on there.

I had an Indian kit which I was working off of as a base, but somehow the brake tab/spacer part didn't make it over here. No idea where it is. Going to have one cut out of some aluminum plate, which will be much better anyhow. But not a simple job, esp. under local conditions. Will be an arrangement of spacers and the tab going onto the axle, and a torque arm holding them in place while allowing for axle adjustment. Something like these from Cheney Engineering:

http://www.flattrackaccessories.com/NBrake.shtml

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Also, the caliper rubs the spokes when it's in the proper position on the disc, so I'll have to either space out the disc or skim some material off the inboard side of the caliper, too.

This part will be a challenge for me personally, and for the local guys at the machine shop, it'll possibly be a bridge too far. Honestly, I'd order one of the Cheney's tabs and be mostly done with it, but those don't fit my rear disc size. I may ask them if they'd custom-make one for me. My time going back and forth to the machine shop and trying to negotiate the language barrier(s) and capacity issues may not be worth it compared with just having them ship me something--stuff takes like a week and a half through my employer's shipping arrangement, and is comparable to domestic postage.
 
Dammit.

To lose the centerstand in order to fit the muffler, or to high-mount the exhaust on the left side?

Centerstand definitely has utility for me, but losing some weight, keeping a toolbox in play, and not needing to do anything particularly funky with the exhaust also has utility.
 
I would try going out the left side X. It will probably be the easiest option, plus not many exhaust systems run on the left side so it'd be unique.
 
I would forgo the center stand, but save it for major work. I don't have one for my CB360, but there are times I wish I did. If I had to choose the lesser of two evils, then the center stand goes.
 
It is a major pain to take off and on, as it runs on a stud in the medieval torture device of the engine mount plates (see pic early on where Sonic says the frame looks like it is from 1928...). I will get a wheel stand if I drop it off, but may miss it for maintainance on the road...
 
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Only existing example I know of. A few things I would do differently on mine because of the header length requirements and my mid-set pegs, but that is about right.
 
Center stands are all over the place cleverly disguised as rocks, logs, stumps and other natural phenomenon.
 
I think I'm gonna fire it up tomorrow for the first time. We'll see.

As for the centerstand, for now it stays, and the short supertrapp on it to get things going. After it's running I'll see what's the best option. Probably go high-left side and keep the stand on there. John, fuck looking for just the right size rock in the desert when I need to work on something...

This did pique my interest as a centerstand alternative, though:

http://www.pashnit.com/product/packjack/index.html

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