1973 CB350G Canadian Noob Build (Gotta start somewhere!)

yorkie350 said:
Totally wicked Tony ,she's a stunner gotta be up there for BOTM i've got the nom ready bud ,get her tuned and ride while the weather's kind "IRIS gonna steal some hearts " ride safe ride proud bro
Cheers bud! Got the last bit of tuning to do this wknd and hopefully post a ride video to show shes road worthy. If not it'll have to be next spring as I'll be putting her away for winter tomorrow most likely. Appreciate your support man!
 
Saturdays Wrench said:
Thanks man! Actually I was very careful when I designed the battery box and believe it or not the wheel will never hit the corner of that box.. I made extra sure of that! As for the shocks, they are custom made to my specific measurements. I made sure the minimum travel was less than the total distance of when the rear wheel will make contact with the seat pan. As for the stiffness, no actually they are quite plush and comfortable! They're 'dial a ride' shocks so if I need to up the stiffness for those sweet northern Ontario roads I can do so.. right now they are sitting at the softest setting.

As for the rear brake it 'seems' to work just fine at the moment but when I first installed them I felt the stutter like everyone else. For some reason I am not getting that stutter anymore! I can't explain it. Perhaps I had the rear sets installed improperly before. Either way, I plan on modifying the stock rear brake arm over the winter. Thank you for the heads up though.
thats awesome you got them set up for you ! i am glad you proved me wrong !but it just doesnt look like you have well over 4" to where the seat pan is, the axle and hence wheel tire travels about 15-20% further than the shocks stroke
so the only very simple foolproof way to know for sure is with a shock mounted no spring is best and strap it down hard to compress bumper
the rear brake, my point there is you have the suspension constantly yanking the brake pedal because the actuation point is so far from the pivot of the swingarm
for a safe and ergonomic brake pedal situation you also want to be able to adjust the pedal static position,and to be able to adjust the freeplay out of the system to a safe minumum
this is why the stock pedals always have an up stop
you can adjust the pedal position to be comfy and then the nut on the end of the brake rod is turned in to eliminate excess freeplay
but with the lashup you have an up stop would just mean a big bump that uses travel of swingarm/shocks well it will put the brakes on for you ! besides it feels quite um unsettling having the brake pedal moving on its own
its a common fail so dont feel like the lone stranger, the bike is stunningly good
fix that issue and it will be much better thats all
 
xb33bsa said:
thats awesome you got them set up for you ! i am glad you proved me wrong !but it just doesnt look like you have well over 4" to where the seat pan is, the axle and hence wheel tire travels about 15-20% further than the shocks stroke
so the only very simple foolproof way to know for sure is with a shock mounted no spring is best and strap it down hard to compress bumper
the rear brake, my point there is you have the suspension constantly yanking the brake pedal because the actuation point is so far from the pivot of the swingarm
for a safe and ergonomic brake pedal situation you also want to be able to adjust the pedal static position,and to be able to adjust the freeplay out of the system to a safe minumum
this is why the stock pedals always have an up stop
you can adjust the pedal position to be comfy and then the nut on the end of the brake rod is turned in to eliminate excess freeplay
but with the lashup you have an up stop would just mean a big bump that uses travel of swingarm/shocks well it will put the brakes on for you ! besides it feels quite um unsettling having the brake pedal moving on its own
its a common fail so dont feel like the lone stranger, the bike is stunningly good
fix that issue and it will be much better thats all
Excellent point! Yes, I had been warned about the brake set up from a few members. There's a fix I'm sure you're aware of with modifying the original brake pedal. I'm definitely going to modify that over the winter and also do some wiring clean up and build a small and tasteful fiberglass seat cowl.

I never really even considered the swing arm moving the pedal for me.. that's pretty scary. Good lookin out man, I appreciate that. I'm sure I will find a few things once I get a good test ride in.. plan on doing that tmrw once I dial in these carbs.

Cheers!
 
Nice build! BZ on moving the brake and I think a seat cowl would go a long way to improving the lines.
 
when your ready to lashup the brake,if you are open minded enough, i have a design worked up that is very simple ,will work better than anything else thats ever been done ,in these situations,with rearsets, and will blow minds and it only requires one extra moving part
and the parts all are readilly available and requires zero "fabrication" ,and neither uses linkages, or rods
 
You have to be so pleased with the outcome, beautiful bike fella. Tank decals are the biz.

I think a shortie rear mudguard would suit the overall style much better, matching the front guard and enhancing the rear seat area. Not sure how a cowl would sit to be honest :/
 
xb33bsa said:
when your ready to lashup the brake,if you are open minded enough, i have a design worked up that is very simple ,will work better than anything else thats ever been done ,in these situations,with rearsets, and will blow minds and it only requires one extra moving part
and the parts all are readilly available and requires zero "fabrication" ,and neither uses linkages, or rods

You sound like Trump XB! :p ;D Just kidding man!

NoRiders said:
You have to be so pleased with the outcome, beautiful bike fella. Tank decals are the biz.

I think a shortie rear mudguard would suit the overall style much better, matching the front guard and enhancing the rear seat area. Not sure how a cowl would sit to be honest :/


Ohh shorty rear mudguard and a tiny little cowl would look the bollocks!
 
Green199 said:
You sound like Trump XB! :p ;D Just kidding man!


Ohh shorty rear mudguard and a tiny little cowl would look the bollocks!
lol i still dont like the guy ,i sure aint gettin a trump stamp,but at least he has run many businesses into bankruptcy, lot more than you can say for any of the filth in washington last 50 years
actually the basis and function,of my brake activation design has been around for 1000 of years directly copies what ?
what do almost all airplanes ,as well as sailboats and lots of speed boats and bicycles and more, all have in common that is one of the most reliable,efficient, mechanical functions ever created ?
 
XB, mind sharing that brake setup? I'd like to see it before I get to work on my 350 since I'm planning on putting rearsets on it.
 
xb33bsa said:
when your ready to lashup the brake,if you are open minded enough, i have a design worked up that is very simple ,will work better than anything else thats ever been done ,in these situations,with rearsets, and will blow minds and it only requires one extra moving part
and the parts all are readilly available and requires zero "fabrication" ,and neither uses linkages, or rods
Ya I'd love to learn more about this design of yours!
 
Saturdays Wrench said:
Ya I'd love to learn more about this design of yours!
it does require a good adjustable pedal up stop and ca strong return spring back at the lever on cam
then its just a cable going forward wrapping 180 up and over a deep groove puilly
the pulley mounted close to swinger pivot
if cable exits pully at swinger pivot centerline then its almost perfect
totally foolprpoof relible,.simple
the cable following close to the rod line you have now
think of mountain bike brakes and shifter deraillersclog and racing outboard motor hydroplanes and p51 mustangs all use cable and pulleys
 
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Congrats on the IG feature! Crazy to see this while scrolling through IG.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Hey dude, crazy clean build congrats!
I scrolled the entire thread for an answer and coulnt find any.
How did you wire the rectifier and stator?
The diagram shows 2 yellow wires and some red ones but the actual parts have a lot more..

Please help me :D

Thanks!
 
LeDom said:
Hey dude, crazy clean build congrats!
I scrolled the entire thread for an answer and coulnt find any.
How did you wire the rectifier and stator?
The diagram shows 2 yellow wires and some red ones but the actual parts have a lot more..

Please help me :D

Thanks!

Hey bud! Sorry for the late reply. When I originally saw the msg I couldn't access my wiring diagram to confirm. I just double checked the digram and bike. I have an after market stator and rectifier from Rick's Electric so this will be different from the stock unit. My stator has 2 black wires coming from it, I connected those to the 2 yellow wires from the regulator/rectifier then I connect the red wire from the reg/rec, through a fuse, to battery positive and the green wire directly to battery negative.

I hope this helps and thanks for the kind words.
 
Time for an update!! How's going around here at DTT?!?

I'm back and on the attack!

For those of you still on board, I have a pretty exciting update on the 350 (finally)! SHE'S ALLLLLLIIIVE and running nicely. I've been hustling this spring to get her completed and all my hard work has finally paid off. Last we left off I had her idling really well but went back to start her up without success last fall before winter storage. This spring I had a long list of items that needed attending to:
- Fix throttle or Install new throttle
- Check and re-time electronic ignition
- Re-Check valve clearances
- Remove after market alarm system as it was draining my battery
- Lube all cables
- Check air pressure in tires
- Cable/Idle sync carbs
- Check gas lines for proper flow
- Clean out fuel tank petcock, insure proper flow
- Install fuel tank
- Break-In engine
- Change oil/Clean oil slinger
- Finish carb tune/Plug chops
- Re-torque bolts on head
- Repair oil leak from stator cover (missing gasket! fixed easily when installed)

After completing all the tasks, she fired up and I took her for an engine break-in ride. It was just incredible! Best day of my life. I don't think I'll ever be able to explain what it was like to hear her open up. It was a huge relief for me to finally take her out on a ride and I can't wait to get back on it. She's incredibly light and nimble, just quick as a whip.

Last Fall I had started setting up the carbs, gas lines and was having problems with my throttle. Over the winter when I had some down time to think about it. I figured out that maybe my bar end mirror had something to do with the fact it was sticking. Sure enough my thoughts were correct. It seems that the rubber on the end of the grip was creating some friction on the mirror clamp and also since I had installed the cable end into the throttle sleeve so many times I had frayed the plastic on the sleeve, also creating friction. I replaced the entire throttle set up and this time I actually cut the end of the plastic throttle sleeve off so I was able to slide the throttle set up higher onto the bars. Doing this allowed for a small 2mm space to be created at the end of the grip between the grip and the mirror clamp. Throttle snapped back.. perfect! With that monkey off my back I was able to finish everything up with a slight amount of ease. It's funny but sometimes you just need to take a step back and regroup. Can't stress that enough to those of you going at this for the first time. It's funny how a small wall can really discourage you.

Another note is that my gas lines and tank seem to be working fine this spring. I was concerned that I may have had an airflow issue on the tank cap but after some inspection and cleaning it seems to be working now and the gas lines are flowing. Hopefully it stays that way.

A real concern I have is that the engine is running really hot!! I have a feeling this is somewhat normal and if anyone can confirm or deny who has a similar engine set up to mine that would be helpful. After the first break-in ride I changed the oil and I swear you could have fried wings in it!! (well not quite, but still). The side covers were also crazy hot! My next step is do complete a series of plug chops to make sure she's running optimally. I really don't want to blow this engine. Also, it was extremely humid during this test ride so I'm a bit nervous the bike won't run as well in lower temps. Going to have to go over my tuning manual to refresh my memory as to why but if anyone cares to explain, please feel free. I'm a bit rusty on the info since I have looked at the manual since last November.

Eventually, when I save up a little bit of money I plan on taking the bike on a Dyno to get a read out. That's down the road somewhere. As for now I have to put 500km's on her close to home to work out all the kinks, then I'll feel confident to ride her an hour home to my house.

I'll have a tuning video coming shortly and I'll go through what I ended up using in the carb set up. For now, enjoy the First Ride video I made and please excuse all the foul language. I was pretty excited lol.

https://youtu.be/ib0SzdAVy80
 
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