CB360 - restore, maintain, ride

spring Cleaning #4 - tubes and braces

I got the bike back together and took her out for the first ride of the season! Hard to tell but the 4-5K RPM hesitation is better, at least it feels much better. I did notice some hesitation when rolling on the throttle from idle once the bike got warm/hot. I'll need to characterize this and do some research.

Attached are some pics of the progress:
1. Old top triple - the broken off part was held on by the fork bolt.
2. Bike with the re-done forks installed and top triple removed.

Next time I'll include a pic of everything back together.

Some things that happened along the way:
- There was wire connecting the handle bar brackets to the headlight bracket, for grounding the handlebars I assume. This broke so I made a new one. However, Is this really needed? I could not find it in the manual and the starter worked without this installed.
- I could not find the torque spec for the bolts holding the front fender to the forks (and disk brake to the fork). Anyone know what the torque is for these front fork bolts?

Still to go:
- Clean oil filter screen and rotor
- install new clutch springs (I got EBC), inspect clutch plates.
- fine tune idle mixture
- balance carbs with manometer (will make a DIY version)
 

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pkoster said:
I did notice some hesitation when rolling on the throttle from idle once the bike got warm/hot. I'll need to characterize this and do some research.

- fine tune idle mixture
- balance carbs with manometer (will make a DIY version)

Yep check the sync, then adj mix. Make sure to keep her as close at 1200 rpm as you can. While tuning. Get them both set once and then go through procedure again.
 
pkoster said:
Some things that happened along the way:
- There was wire connecting the handle bar brackets to the headlight bracket, for grounding the handlebars I assume. This broke so I made a new one. However, Is this really needed? I could not find it in the manual and the starter worked without this installed.
- I could not find the torque spec for the bolts holding the front fender to the forks (and disk brake to the fork). Anyone know what the torque is for these front fork bolts?


Yes you need the wire, it makes sure the handle bar switches have good reliable grounds since the handle bars are rubber mounted. The bars will ground somewhat through the clutch cable, however as time grime and grease get worked into that cable that connection will get funky and not work all the time. That wire is on many a honda, at least everyone that has rubber mounted handle bars.

For the torque, the Tightening Torque Standard in the manual lists sizes of fasteners and what they're torques should be. If if you notice all the same sized bolts and nuts share the same torque standard. Find the size the nut or bolt you you need on the list and use that standard. I believe the front brake arm is 13.1-18.1 lbs-ft for the large bolt and 5-8 lbs-ft for the small ones and the fender as well.
 
frogman said:
Yes you need the wire, it makes sure the handle bar switches have good reliable grounds since the handle bars are rubber mounted. The bars will ground somewhat through the clutch cable, however as time grime and grease get worked into that cable that connection will get funky and not work all the time. That wire is on many a honda, at least everyone that has rubber mounted handle bars.

For the torque, the Tightening Torque Standard in the manual lists sizes of fasteners and what they're torques should be. If if you notice all the same sized bolts and nuts share the same torque standard. Find the size the nut or bolt you you need on the list and use that standard. I believe the front brake arm is 13.1-18.1 lbs-ft for the large bolt and 5-8 lbs-ft for the small ones and the fender as well.

Thanks Frogman. Great to know. I'll recheck the torque on those bolts.
 
Spring cleaning #5 - Part 1 - the oil filter

Removed the right crankcase cover to get a the oil filter rotor and oil filter. First thing I noticed was that rubber gasket was used, and it looks like hole was ripped/punched into the pocket where the oil is supposed to flow... interesting.

(trying to figure out how to inline pictures, hope this works.)


Looks like the rotor had a fair amount of solidified oil in it. Not sure if this is normal or an indication of some other symptom, but here is a pic of the rotor and the stuff scraped out.



Finally the oil filter had a bunch of bits on it. Also had what looked like a wire pubic hair, close up pic shown. Is this common? Where could this come from?



Got it all cleaned up and put back together according to the manual.
Up next - the clutch.
 

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Spring cleaning #5 - part 2 The Clutch

I picked up some EBC clutch springs from Flying Squirrel Motorocycle (http://www.fsmotorcycle.com/), nice place.

The new springs are a little longer than the current ones, even though the older ones are within spec. (see pics)


Pulled the clutch out and noticed a little bit of hammering in the clutch basket (see pic). In the outer part if could barely feel it with my finger, on the inner part I could not feel it at all. I figured this was not bad enough to remove the basket and file them flat. Anyone have experience on this I would appreciate an expert opinion?

I checked the friction plate thickness, all of them are within spec. I did not see any scoring or discoloration on the metal plates. (see pic)

I put it all back together, took it for a nice long ride and really noticed the different in the clutch. Much smoother to engage cold or hot. Engine sounded consistent when cold and hot so I'm guessing oil is flowing better with the new gasket and cleaned filter & rotor (but maybe this is just me expecting this :/).
 

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If clutch is working smooth leave things alone, plates are not binding so hammer marks are not too bad
I would do the clutch hub modification though, it helps plates stay cooler and cleaner
360 clutch will take massive amounts of abuse before plates need changing.
Stock springs - cause clutch slip and wear
 
Hey PJ, would it be worth doing the oil system mod you mentioned in another post to keep his top end alive? Id hate to see this nice bike eat up the top end :/
 
Now you guys got me worried. I'll look up those two mods.

So now my to do list is:
1. Fix the !#$?#! stutter/misfire/loss of power at about 4500
2. Compression is about 150 in both sides, hot with throttle & choke wide open
3. Clutch mod
4. Oil mod

Long term:
- get oem seat cover
- rear brake pads
- tires that suit the bike



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pkoster said:
Long term:
- get oem seat cover
- rear brake pads
- tires that suit the bike

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Tires that suit the bike? Do you mean tires that suit your riding style and terrain?
 
I'm not sure I have a style, perhaps a new rider defensive style... lol

The terrain is just paved roads. I think tires on the bike look like they are from a sport bike. All the other mid 70's Hondas I have seen have a more aggressive looking tire, more knobby... if that is a word.

Oh, more item on my to do list ... my diy electronic ignition.


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I used Dunlop K70's fr years, good tyre.
Yes, it's a real good idea to do oiling mods, particularly the oil transfer piece in clutch cover even if you don't do anything else
 
I've got k70s on my 450 front and back and love em, wish they made a 18" for the 360... W/e I'll wear out the IRC one of these days.

I'm really impressed at how well drilling that center bearing for the head turned out. Mine has 0 additional wear from when I did it. Definitely recommend that mod.
 
I think I am now on the way to resolving the misses at 5k. I took off the air filters and it worked a whole lot better. I would say 95% resolved. I put in some new plugs and this is what they looked like after about 40 miles.
 

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yep, they are way too rich. they should be really light tan...pert near white-ish. definitely not bright white. Ill see if I got a pic of mine or ill open them up and take one.

Running w no filters is not the best idea. Probably the reason its running too rich, mid range rpms. 3500-5k
 
I have stock filters and exhaust. The filters look fairly well used so im going to attempt to remove the paper and use unifoam or something.

The carb has stock jets too.

The odd thing is with the air filters in, and the bad misses at 5k, the plugs look more fouled. If I had to guess I would say wet. The plugs in the pictures I posted were taken run with no filters and I would say these were a dry fouling.

Did I just go from too rich (with filters) to too lean (no filters)?



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Rereading your post Frogman you said im still running too rich with no filters... How can I lean this puppy out? AFAIK everything is stock on this bike.

Thanks for the advice, always much appreciated.

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