1968 CL175 repair and build

[medicalmechanica]

FYI, 180 main jet in a keihin carb 1.8mm diameter and that will flow 4 x as much fuel as a #90.  Or did it have a minkuni jet in that carb?

Go on line or contact your dealer and see if you can get two good new Keihin main jets for that carb.  Early and late Honda's use different threads - same diameter but different pitch. I can't remember which pitch the 175 used and what that is compatible with but can check it over the weekend if you need.

I have Keihin carbs, and I read somewhere that a 98 and a 38 are the way to go. I ordered a rebuild kit that meets the specs for the threads I have so I think it'll be good to go, but if not it was only like 19 bucks so I won't have to take out a loan or anything if I ordered too hastily.

Should I keep the needle in the 3rd notch and go from there?

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[medicalmechanica]

Aaaaaaaand I'm stumped. Both carbs are set up the same, same jets, same float bowl heights, same fuel filters which are known to work, same air filters, same needle positions, same fuel screw settings, and I'm still getting a cold pipe.

Does anyone know what operating temps I should be seeing? My left pipe is like 400 degrees and my right pipe is in the 110s.

I know I have spark. I know I have compression because I checked, and because swapping the carbs reverses the problem. I know there's fuel for that same reason. It has to be something carb related but I would eat off of both of them, and even though I have new jets I cleaned them AGAIN and ran a tiny wire through all of the ports to be safe.

Help? Thanks!

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[medicalmechanica]

SUCCESS!!

I had a tiny pinhole in my float and I guess it was sinking, fixed and fixed! Riding this thing is awesome, and now I'll have to tear it down and replace the gaskets and cam.

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[advCo]

Ha! Good catch. I've had that happen to me before, but it just ended up with fuel spilling all over the driveway. Glad you got it figured out.


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[teazer]

Cool.  One thing I try to do now is to set FUEL level and not FLOAT level.   That way, any float problems are obvious and it's what we are actually trying to do when we set the float level. 

Doing it "wet" where possible is more accurate.

A simple test for floats is to stick one into a cup of really hot water and watch for a stream of bubbles.  No bubbles is good, any bubbles is bad.

[medicalmechanica]

Yeah, that's how I found the hole once I realized what was happening.

I'm having a great time riding this thing but it's leaking oil so I should probably stop. I'm seeing oil on the kickstand and the little chain cover is impossible to get off because the PO demolished the screws, so I can't tell where the leak is.

I'll probably tinker around until my gaskets arrive and then I'm gonna just refresh everything, grab a brat seat and some clubmans and call it done.

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[HerrDeacon]

Cool.  One thing I try to do now is to set FUEL level and not FLOAT level.   That way, any float problems are obvious and it's what we are actually trying to do when we set the float level. 

Doing it "wet" where possible is more accurate.

That's the way Kawi does it and it works great. I found it real strange when I got my first Honda and they set them the other way. Way too much margin for error if you ask me.

[medicalmechanica]

All three of them are destroyed haha, gonna grab an extractor kit and see if that works, and if not I guess I'll have to drill them out and cut new threads in, which I hate doing.

In an earlier post I showed a picture of my camshaft end on the points side and how chewed up it was, and before I order a new cam I have a question.

If I were to cut the scoring out of the cam, would I be able to run a smaller gasket in the cam journal to make a seal? The seal is leaking a few drops into the points housing, and I'm thinking if I can find a gasket with a smaller ID and flatten out that surface it'd work fine.

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[advCo]

Get a drill bit that's just a hair bigger than the 6mm bolt shaft, and drill through the head of the screws until they pop off. Take the cover off, and I'll bet the rest of the screw will come out by hand. If not, vice grips.


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[medicalmechanica]

Get a drill bit that's just a hair bigger than the 6mm bolt shaft, and drill through the head of the screws until they pop off. Take the cover off, and I'll bet the rest of the screw will come out by hand. If not, vice grips.


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That's the plan! Hopefully I'll get enough of one out without destroying it that I can take it to the hardware store and get some nice new black hex hardware.

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