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Author Topic: 1980 CB900F Build  (Read 2971 times)

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 12892
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1980 CB900F Build
« Reply #30 on: Jan 17, 2018, 19:35:53 »
Yep, that's battery sellers instructions.
 Doing things that way (seen it before) battery can fail in as little as 3 weeks.
 I doubt you've done any damage so bung it on a slow charge for 8~10 hrs at 13.7~14.2v @ 0.5amp max charge. If you only have a 'fixed' output charger, get a cheap timer (probably already have a few, most people do for Christmas lights, etc?) give 20 min 'zap' with 10 min cool down for a few hours
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline jetmechmarty

  • Posts: 337
Re: 1980 CB900F Build
« Reply #31 on: Jan 17, 2018, 21:51:54 »
4.3 ohms on the rotor is good.   Each leg of the stator equal is good.
Marty (in Georgia)
XS650

Re: 1980 CB900F Build
« Reply #32 on: Jan 18, 2018, 08:02:36 »
The local bike shop didn't have a rectifier and the guy said to go after market anyway because the OEM one was $439. But they did order the brake rebuild parts I needed.
So... its going to be a good ol fashioned thumb twiddling until I get me some more parts, but I will keep you updated.
A knight in shining armour is a man who has never had his metal truly tested.

Offline cxman

  • DTT SUPPORTER
  • *
  • Posts: 2463
Re: 1980 CB900F Build
« Reply #33 on: Jan 18, 2018, 09:13:20 »
make sure none of the stator legs have continuity to ground

same with each side of the rotor
1978 CX650 Super Deluxe
1979 XS1100 Special
1974 xl350
1983 cx650 Custom
1973 cb750
1980 cb750
1981 cb650
1982 cb900 c
1974 kawasaki 350 bighorn
1983 GL1100 aspy full dress
1983 GL1100 Nekid
and a bunch of others

Offline jetmechmarty

  • Posts: 337
Re: 1980 CB900F Build
« Reply #34 on: Jan 18, 2018, 15:46:52 »
The local bike shop didn't have a rectifier and the guy said to go after market anyway because the OEM one was $439. But they did order the brake rebuild parts I needed.
So... its going to be a good ol fashioned thumb twiddling until I get me some more parts, but I will keep you updated.

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/  Oregon Motorcycle Parts probably has what you need, plug-n-play.

Marty (in Georgia)
XS650

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 12892
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1980 CB900F Build
« Reply #35 on: Jan 18, 2018, 16:43:53 »
Who would have known this would be so much fun!

LOL, AS Benny Hill said in one of his comedy sketches, 'Learning All The Time' (while groping one of the almost supermodel actresses)

There are a few R/R that will work. Either get a brand new aftermarket (generally better than OEM as they use higher quality or MIL spec components) or get RR from Honda SOHC 350~7500F, Yamaha XS 650 or similar or Kawasaki.
Anything with 7 wires should work, stay away from 5 wire RR as it won't ave a control feed to field windings. I'm pretty sure you won't find anything from Suzuki as tey used car style alternators on EMS systems and of course, a 5 wire PMS won't work. have you tried 'full fielding' the field windings? (basically connect te white wires direct to battery, you should get around 17v at idle. Don't rev the engine as voltage can go crazy high (100+ before it all goes quiet and the magic smoke leaks out)

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/  Oregon Motorcycle Parts probably has what you need, plug-n-play.



Two way shipping may be a bit expensive from 'Horsetrail-yee-haa'
« Last Edit: Jan 18, 2018, 16:48:02 by crazypj »
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Re: 1980 CB900F Build
« Reply #36 on: Jan 18, 2018, 17:34:15 »
make sure none of the stator legs have continuity to ground

same with each side of the rotor

Yeah I checked that. cheers.
A knight in shining armour is a man who has never had his metal truly tested.

Re: 1980 CB900F Build
« Reply #37 on: Jan 18, 2018, 17:42:47 »
have you tried 'full fielding' the field windings? (basically connect the white wires direct to battery, you should get around 17v at idle. Don't rev the engine as voltage can go crazy high (100+ before it all goes quiet and the magic smoke leaks out)

Two way shipping may be a bit expensive from 'Horsetrail-yee-haa'

What? as i'm not 100% on what that is I will just wait until I work out a new rr. and yeah postage to this side of the globe gets a bit pricey... not to mention the AUD is only 80c to every USD.
you said there are a few 7 wire rr that work but mine has 8 wires, which wire can I not use/direct elsewhere?

Also 'Horsetrail-yee-haa' hahahaha! your killing me!
A knight in shining armour is a man who has never had his metal truly tested.

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 12892
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1980 CB900F Build
« Reply #38 on: Jan 18, 2018, 23:25:47 »
I think original has dual grounds? I still haven't looked for manual. I 'll try and get a look at it tomorrow
I'm from 'old' South Wales, saw NSW  on number plate and knew it didn't mean
'Not Safe (for) Work'  ;D
Full Fielding is where you figure out which wires are going to the brushes and connect them direct to battery. That will make the electromagnet  ( the 'EM' in EMF) as strong as it's ever going to get. Your bypassing the regulator which is why I said only check at idle (generally OK to about 1,5~1,700rpm) It's so long since I had to do it on CB900 I can't remember results if you get over 2,000 rpm, maybe just the instrument and head/ tail light 'pop'? (that's the minimum damage)
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Re: 1980 CB900F Build
« Reply #39 on: Jan 19, 2018, 04:57:56 »
I think original has dual grounds? I still haven't looked for manual. I 'll try and get a look at it tomorrow
I'm from 'old' South Wales, saw NSW  on number plate and knew it didn't mean
'Not Safe (for) Work'  ;D
Full Fielding is where you figure out which wires are going to the brushes and connect them direct to battery. That will make the electromagnet  ( the 'EM' in EMF) as strong as it's ever going to get. Your bypassing the regulator which is why I said only check at idle (generally OK to about 1,5~1,700rpm) It's so long since I had to do it on CB900 I can't remember results if you get over 2,000 rpm, maybe just the instrument and head/ tail light 'pop'? (that's the minimum damage)

ohhhhh, that makes sense now. I'm still not gonna try it. My Brother lives a couple hours away in a bigger city and the motorcycle shop there had a rr in stock for $80. I'm going to his place next weekend because us Aussies celebrate "invasion day" next Friday. So when I get back if thats plugged in and things still aren't working I will look in to more drastic measures.
It was 40 degrees hear again today and its going to be hotter over the weekend. So I will be avoiding the garage for a bit.
Where is South Wales? Florida somewhere?
A knight in shining armour is a man who has never had his metal truly tested.