CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.

She is really coming along nicely...thank god you did something about the upside down bars...but dude, you gotta do something w that seat. ;D

I mean even if you went total hipster and wrapped it in a piece of seattles best flannel. ::)
 
I hear you Eric. My mantra with this bike has been "don't mod a bike that doesn't run" which keeps me from going too far down the rabbit hole. Unfortunately it also puts me in odd situations like this one, where I am just trying to get her back on the road before I sink a couple of hours into making a seat cover and a couple more into putting the rest of the graphics on the tank.

I was thinking of sliding the leg from an old pair of jeans over it in the mean time, but am afraid I'll like that enough to give up on the couch. I've got an insanely nice pair of Japanese raw denim jeans that a client gave me for a branding project that are no longer wearable. They would be up to the task, but again: I'd have to give up on the couch.

I was happy to have her on the road. She could use a tune up, but she got all the way up to 9000 RPM which is something that hasn't been possible for a few seasons.

Thanks for the encouragement Redahtamn. at this point my mind changes faster than my abilities to implement change. It should continue to be a wild ride.

Up next, I will have to relocate the auto zone trailer tail-light. (any probably replace it with something a bit more appropriate.) and cut down the rear hoop.
 
Great looking bike. My fav thing about this is that this bike gets ridden right? It's not some trailer queen. This bike has character. How many miles have you put on her? Keep it up, keep it running as good as possible too!
 
KICKRacing said:
Great looking bike. My fav thing about this is that this bike gets ridden right? It's not some trailer queen. This bike has character. How many miles have you put on her? Keep it up, keep it running as good as possible too!

She sits when she breaks and I'm busy. (or poor/ or its hotter than hell in Arizona - this last stretch was the worst. 7 months I think :( ) but no - she isn't a trailer queen. I rode her from Pittsburgh to Akron last fall. I didn't like how straight all the roads were up there. Alabama is more fun. Arizona is less fun (have to ride an hour to find a road worth ripping into) Anyway . . .

I have a question for the all knowing singularity that is DoTheTon - how the heck do I size the battery I'm buying?

<autobiographical ramblings - feel free to skip this slosh>
I did a simple universal 12V battery (think it was from emergency lighting or something) before I worked out my charging issues, and tossed it (because it didn't hold enough for me to ride the bike with a messed up charging system.) Now that things are back in order, I think I'm going to move away from the wet cell technology. I've fried 3 batteries trying to keep those things in good shape (I'll blame Arizona for frying this last one. I'm sure that 120 degrees at 0 humidity for 3 months is to blame for the last one. Every single cell was try when I finally put the new ignition coils on it) Anyway - the battery in it doesn't hold a charge for more than a day or two. It hasn't died on me while riding and the numbers are good when I test the terminals at 2000rpm+ (so I figure its really the battery.)
</autobiographical ramblings>

I pulled the starter a long time ago (its a 360 and I'm not even 36 yet. I don't mind kicking it - its not like it kicks back.) so I just have an LED tail light, an HID 35W headlight and the ignition coils (and the LED neutral light whenever I feel like hooking that back up.) I've googled the math on this thing, and can't find a good breakdown of how to do this (without being way over my head.)

Was thinking 12V 4A . . . Could build another tool box into the extra space of the battery.

"Hey Ben, Why not just get a 12V 7A battery like the one that came in the damn thing and has worked in the past?"

Good question random person! Well, you see, I'm a cheap bastard and want to save the $20-$40. (I could say something about weight, but we all know the heaviest part of this bike is my gut.)

Thanks for the help.
 
Stupid Thought, Can I just charge the battery up and then do this when it's idling, figure I want the thing to go for an hour or so with the headlight off. (I would also want some sort of warning light when my charging system blows out to let me know to kill the headlight or hurry home if something does go wrong.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWA9WqSEjg8

My worry is that I'm going to fry the multimeter.

(alternately I know It would take 30 amps across the entire system to blow all three fuses.)
 
I suggest you talk to sonrier bout all that.

heres my battery I love it. 9ah sealed gel, I always, ALWAYS use elec start. on its 3rd year now maybe?

http://www.amazon.com/UPG-UT9B-4-Adventure-Series-Battery/dp/B001ZTBHLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421204133&sr=8-1&keywords=adventure+power+battery+9b-4

my headlight...18/18w h4. I dont ride alot after dark. On high beam its as bright as a 35w on low beam. On low it works great for daytime running around, sipping bout half the juice as your 35/55.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-9003-HB2-18-18W-Halogen-Motor-Scooter-Headlight-bulb-/380246017601?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58886dc641&vxp=mtr
 
How much are you trying to save? I have a 12V 12ah sealed AGM battery that cost me like $45. It's lasted me 3 years so far, and I'm sure it'll go on for many more.
 
Was hoping to spend less than the $50 I spent on the acid batteries at my LBS. I liked the idea of having the extra space in the battery compartment for tools, but really, I have the factory tool box, and could just build a small roll for that thing. (or make myself a tool bag out of the leftover)

trek97 said:
I suggest you talk to sonrier bout all that.

heres my battery I love it. 9ah sealed gel, I always, ALWAYS use elec start. on its 3rd year now maybe?

http://www.amazon.com/UPG-UT9B-4-Adventure-Series-Battery/dp/B001ZTBHLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421204133&sr=8-1&keywords=adventure+power+battery+9b-4

Did that thing fit in your battery box? (do you still have a battery box?) Thanks for chiming in. It sounds like there is no real benefit for me to go with a small amp battery (as I'm keeping factory air boxes on mine)
 
Since it's a sealed AGM, it can be installed in any position. I have mine under the hump at the back of the frame.
 
Thanks Eric & deviant. I was having trouble tracking down the stock dimensions. (impatient me didn't want to wait until I got home to check.)

[x] Question about battery has been answered.

On to the next one =)
 
Whelp. I cut down my rear hoop. Mocked up the length I want to cut the factory fender to, and then went back to work.
 

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Asking this here to keep this build cohesive, but . . . I may put this question in the appropriate sub-forum as well:

I just timed the thing (like spot on timed it up) and I'm worried that when I put the top end back together I didn't line up the timing chain properly . . . with the new coils the bike ran (and pushed itself around) but it was weak. Now I've got the left points closing at LF and the right points closing at F, but the bike won't run at all (sometimes I get a strong kick back from the kickstart, and once or twice I got a few fires and an abrupt stall).

Any help on how to tackle this (or trouble shoot it) is much appreciated. Its been so hot (at least when I first got here) and I've been so busy (since then) that I've become a bit rusty. The high pipes also make doing anything a huge pain in the knuckles.

(checked my crap battery and its holding at 12.4V so that shouldn't be the problem, and there is gas in it. Going to put another gallon or two in just to be safe, but beyond that. I'm at a loss.)
 
Cursh said:
Now I've got the left points closing at LF and the right points closing at F, but the bike won't run at all

Points should OPEN on the LF & F.

AND, since you didnt ask for it, Im gonna tell you, easy way to set points.

I like a tight gap, cause it gives her, just that much more time to charge the coils.


1. set the gap on left point to open spec distance. I like to start at .12. I think specs say 12-16.

2. next, rotate plate til it opens on LF exactly. snug it down & rotate engine counterclockwise

3. Then adjust right point gap to open on L, it should (automatically) fall within .12-16 specs.

If right turns out to be more or less than 12-16, start over w step 1. Set Left to open .14 gap...and so on
 
Thanks Eric. (as I said, I've become a bit rusty . . . and misplaced my clymer). That explains why she very quickly became more of a runlikeshit type of motorcycle.
 
deviant said:
Nope, that's because it's a 360.

My tuning standards are pretty lax. If the motorcycle has better acceleration than me on my bicycle, and can approach redline then I'm a happy camper. (so far, in 7 years of ownership, that has been true for approximately 8 months.)
 
Thanks again Eric. =) retuned this morning following your steps and holy hell did she fire right up.

Since page 4 (or at this point, maybe pages 4 and 5) is being dedicated to stupid questions, does anyone know how efficiently step a 3/16 barb up to fit into 1/4" hose? My CB400 four petcock (which otherwise solves my petcock problem) won't work with tubes that fit onto my carbs/ fuel filter/ etc.

I was thinking some sort of fuel safe 3/16 line adhered to the barb with fuel safe liquid gasket stuffed inside the 1/4" fuel line with a hose clamp around the entire thing. Unfortunately gravity is not on my side of this one as I needed the side exit petcock to clear my carburetors with the CB450 tank.

I'm throwing this out there, because I'm certain this is far from the best way to do it. Thinking I could also get some fatty fuel line from auto zone for 3/16" and hog out the 1/4" side with a power drill to make the transition (when I google reducers they were all male to male. i need to male (3/16) to female(1/4) or a female to female.

-Ben.
 
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