New stock CL350, just rejetted by mechanic. No power under 3k RPM. Stumped...

It's from 1976

Totally misread... oops!

Very nice 2002 my friend!!! I have a '75 awaiting a rust restoration...the rest of the car has been gone thru (motor, suspension etc.)
What kinda mods??? Are those 15" alpina replicas?

Thanks for the complement.

I've had the car for ~3 years now and have touched just about everything. Just swapped in a cammed-out stroker motor a few weeks ago, which is why I'm still sorting it out. (otherwise, it's been wonderfully reliable)

Engine - 2.2L Built and Stroked by Korman Automotive, 316 Cam (I believe), Dual 45 DCOE sidedrafts (waiting on angled velocity stacks)
Exhaust - currently too small for the new engine, has ansa exhaust, going to a 2.5 inch IE header, going to fab a 2.25 inch custom exaust
Suspension - Lowered springs, Bilstein Sport shocks, IE Swaybars front and rear, TES Strut brace Front and rear
Brakes - Volvo Girling Calipers. Tii master cylindar and Booster going in this winter (currently rubbing on one of the stacks)
Interior - Petri Sport wheel, e30 sport seats. Recently recovered front and rear seats with stock marine blue vinyl
Wheels - Rota 15' (euro) Alpina Reps

Thanks for the interest. Good luck with the rust. The engine bay alone took ~8 hours to do, and I have what is considered to be a "rust free" one. I did have to repair rust in the front right and rear right shock towers when I got it. Here's a pic in the daylight. Lights currently aren't on the car, but I'm probably going to put them back on.

While testing the turbo, BMW kept upping the boost until it was making just over 450bhp, with the head lifting off the block ;D
Turbo motor didn't get heavy duty head bolts, they lowered the boost so it only made about 240bhp

Actually...the 2002 turbo made only 170ish hp. They can be boosted to make more.
The M10 block was modded to be used in F1 cars also. 1.5 liter, turbo motors...made 1200 hp in qualifying trim...900ish hp in race trim.

I have a lot of useless BMW 2002 and M10 engine info in my brain lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk 2

Nice, that's awesome.

(Edit: You beat me to it) BMW took 100k mi+ engines from the 2002s (m10) and put them in their F1 cars, boosted to 1000hp+ for qualifying laps. (And generally, they would only last 1 or 2 laps)

Coils should be coming in today. Going to drain the gas tank and see if I can get the bike running tonight/tomorrow.

Had a slight delay because one of the spark plug cable's ball bearings crapped out and won't hold the plug anymore. Got new NGK plugs today, installed them and bike fired up! Had to adjust the throttle cable ends to make the bike idle, but it's working well. Made a quick trip around town cause it was rush hour. I still have to tune her up (and take pics!).

Its too early to call, but i think the power issue is fixed. (I too think it was a rich pilot jet) Just wanted to say thanks to you guys for the patience and help. I'll tool around some more and post back.

Pic of the coils going in:


Assembled: (I changed the plug orientation back to the fronts after this pic)


The lack of power at low RPM definitely seems fixed ;D

Currently trying my hand at tuning the carbs, but unable to make even and steady power. Stock everything, the keihin's are being a pain in the butt. Depending on where I set the mixture screw (currently approx 2 turns out on both sides), the bike runs well at less throttle input, but then acts up in at 3/4 and up, or vice versa.

My first time doing it, but it seems to require a finesse that I am not seeing. Any tips or tricks?

So good to be able to drive her again!

Update: This issue is not fixed =(

For a while, I was unable to get the bike to start due to rebuilding the advancer incorrectly. I now have the bike running, although barely.

I have very little power, I believe I am often running on only the right cylinder. The bike has very little power, sometimes it's usable, sometimes it can't even rev to 3k rpm. This varies as quickly as a few seconds, or as long as a few minutes. The bike seems to run best with a healthy dose of choke, usually at the max.

Sometimes, emphasis on sometimes, at around 3k+ RPM the right side will start firing and act more or less normal. Might only be a few seconds, might be longer, doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason.

As mentioned, I have already gone through the carbs and replaced EVERYTHING with new brass. I adjusted the floats pretty decently, I didn't have a float level tool then (I do now), but I did get it pretty close. Both coils and the condensor have been replaced, as well as the plug caps (but not the spark plug wire). I have spark when I hold the plugs to the engine case. The plugs are gapped and torqued. The advancer has had both springs shortened 1 loop. The bike has been timed. The bike has compression of ~150 PSI in both chambers.

I'm at a bit of a loss and pretty frustrated. My next guess is to replace the spark plug wires? Use the float level tool to verify the correct float level. What should I try?

Assuming that you've already verified timing with a strobe light and you've checked compression on both cylinders, it's time to investigate the carbs.

Sounds like you're fighting an air leak, but please rule out timing and compression first.

Okay, well the strobe timing seems to prove one thing...my spark is intermittent on the left cylinder. The right side was a bit retarded, but I'd say this is a bigger issue.

Moving/twisting the plug wire had no effect. Coils are new, condenser is new, points are new, plug caps are new, plugs are gapped.

Here's my right side - looks fine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uF47LT8KNDQ

Here's my left side - Intermittent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pIE8wT9Nzk

Now what?!?

I wouldn't write off the spark as intermittent just yet. Often the pickups on the strobes aren't that great. Try holding the pickup against the plug wire rather that relying on the clip, and then try again.

Check the electrical connectors are tight on wiring harness. I've seen several that 'feel' good but can move around and lose connection

It's definitely firing intermittently. I timed the bike with the strobe. Can't get RPMs over 3k. Everytime I try, the left light starts flickering and the bike starts to die

For shits and giggles, I swapped plugs (one side to the other) and the left side seams to be misfiring a bit less (right side still lights up every time). Thinking I'm going to go get a new set of plugs, not that these are old, and try agsin

is your muffler clear? any chance it is plugged with debris of some sort ?

New points or condensor could be faulty? Blocked exhaust can cause plug to foul but until it does the spark wont 'go away'

Bought new plugs and gapped them. Solved the misfiring issue, but the original issue still persists.

I played around with my mechanic's stethoscope trying to listen for any kind of air leak between the carbs, but it seems to check out as far as I can tell.

My next task is to take the carbs back off? I remember that the diaphragms (inside the carbs) were in good shape. All the brass is new, no leaks on the floats. What am I looking for?

The diaphragms can just 'fail' if you've got e-10 fuel on them for any reason.
Mechanic didn't shim needles?
It sounds like the primary main jet discharge tube cross drillings are blocked as well as holed diaphragms. You did fit new rubber plugs over the pilot (slow) jets?