New stock CL350, just rejetted by mechanic. No power under 3k RPM. Stumped...

Here in Chicago, I don't have any choice but e-10 :-\

New rubber plugs on the pilots. The mechanic did not try shims. I do have shims though, I got them as part of my kit. Should I try adding one to each side?

I'm not exactly sure why, but the left carb has JB weld on the inside/outside of the carb body. I'll try to post pics when I get home.
 
Do not add any shims.
In my experience they cause problems.
The needles must be free to 'float', shims lock them in position and can cause slides to stick
 
So, I forgot to mention this. Not exactly sure what it is (jb weld?) or why it's there (plug a hole?) Related? Or should I not care?

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I didn't read all the post but it sounds like an air leak. Check out this video on how to diagnosis an air leak.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKVHqCJN2LU
 
Thanks for that video, I'll give that a shot right before I rip out the carbs.

New carb came in, has what appears to be a crack in it. I should probably return this and stick with my original carbs? Thoughts

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Look at the brass bit here ^ (above this arrow)
|
 
That's a bit unusual but will work fine.
It's the float bowl vent, your original should be OK as long as it's venting
 
I found a 1/8 inch tear in one of the diaphragms :mad:

After searching, I settled on ordering a set of new diaphragms from http://jbmindustries.com/ The site is laughably difficult to use and has no layout at all, but the product seems decent. We'll see, I'm hoping there's a chance they come in before Friday.

I used a real float height tool and found that my heights were decently far off from what I thought they should be from eyeballing it when I had it apart last time. Now they're perfect though, just basely touching 26mm on the tool.
 
A few guys on Hondatwins.net have used those diaphragms and found them good, just take your time with the installation.
 
Yep, I read some of those posts. I like the fact that they are ethanol resistant too!
 
Check your float height gauge, I've found them to be 'off' by up to 1.5mm.
Usually, they are only 'off' by 0.5mm though ::)
 
Quick question about bench syncing the carbs, how much air should be flowing through them when 'resting'? I can blow through them when covering the jet holes, but it seems to take some force for there to really be much flow. I can't see a gap between the throttle plate and the carb body. Does that sound normal?
 
I'm currently maxed out on the adjustment for the throttle plate. I can't fit a paperclip, it's probably 1/3 a paperclip's width. I could remove and cut the spring, but is that actually what I should do?
 
I've never done a bench sync but I invested in a carb sync tool and it was one of the best investments I ever made. I use it everytime I mess with the jets and it's quick and easy.

Fast forward to 9:30 on this vid
http://youtu.be/Fc30ABUB6Ps
 
so2002 said:
I'm currently maxed out on the adjustment for the throttle plate. I can't fit a paperclip, it's probably 1/3 a paperclip's width. I could remove and cut the spring, but is that actually what I should do?
Click to expand...

Not sure I follow. Which adjustment is maxed? Can you post a pic?

And no. Leave the spring alone. The issue is somewhere else.
 
I didn't take a picture of it last night. The idle adjustment (which changes the the position of the throttle plate) (it adjusts where the range of motion stops). I have it screwed all the way in, the spring is fully compressed and preventing further adjustment, but the throttle plate only has a tiny tiny gap between it and the carb body. If I could screw it in a revolution or 2 further, I would be able to fit a paperclip.

With the throttle plates installed, the wear spots line up (because the throttle plates are not 90 degree angles), and the keihin stamping on the throttle plate is readable when looking in from the engine's point of view (and the letters are not upside down).

If that's still confusing, I can take pics tonight.
 
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