Spark Advance Unit Stuck - bogging engine- CL350 K2

I just rebuilt the top end a week ago. Bike was running perfectly, but leaking oil behind the cam boxes. Probably 2 miles on the engine since I assembled it, just test runs. I took the top end apart again yesterday to use thicker gaskets and eliminate the cam box leak. I had to unbolt the cam gear to do all this (they certainly didn't engineer this thing for maintenance ease).

After reassembling everything today, the engine won't rev high. Idles perfectly, but off the line it bogs, and won't give me full power on a test run. Had to hold throttle wide open in every gear just to get back home.

I have it tuned to spec. Cam gear "L" level @ LT, advance locating pin pointing at 12 o'clock, valves good, head torqued, static timed. The cam boxes are fresh NOS. Advance unit fresh NOS. Points plate and points fresh NOS. Rick's Stator. You get the idea. The bike ran like it was new before I went in to fix the leak.

I pulled off the points cover tonight to investigate, and noticed metal shavings in there. I can't get the advance unit off. I have soaked it in PB, not going to heat it (oil seal behind). I understand it should pretty much slip right off, it did a week ago on the first rebuild.

What happened with this latest assembly? I put the cam box gasket on as shown in the parts fiche (I understand they are directional). I didn't do anything different that I can pinpoint. I'm racking my brain.

I have a feeling that there is some unwanted friction somewhere in the system due to the shavings and reluctance to reach upper RPMs and full advance.

Any ideas?

Another note- I really don't want to pry this thing off with a flathead. I did that with the original advance unit on the first rebuild, and it came out in pieces.

The new one, however, came out smoothly during this most recent rebuild, which was yesterday.

Update-

Got my brand spanking NOS advance unit off with vicegrips and a piece of leather- still nicked the cam surface. asdflkjsdflksjdf

Can I solder or JB weld the nicks and sand/polish smooth? Really don't want to buy another NOS advance. I could've bought an electric unit for all the money I'd have thrown into the points system.

I think I used the wrong washer on the advance retaining screw. That would have caused my symptoms, no? And the unwanted friction could have caused the shavings? They were very minimal. I don't see any real wear on any of the components.

I realize I'm not getting any replies until tomorrow... but more info is good for posterity.

Below is an image of the surface I nicked. The advance cam rotates on this... but its not the surface that the points ride on, so I'm fairly confident in still using it at this point. I've sanded and polished it to a smooth surface, so in my mind I've simply lost a bit of contact surface, not a big deal unless someone tells me otherwise.

I used a dremel to really smooth out all the surfaces involved in this mouse trap. Operates smoothly on my bench.

The advance unit was stuck (I think) because the locating pin on the cam was pulled partially out and angled. The pin is a little loosey-goosey but was easily pressed back into the correct perpendicular position with no force.

I think the incorrect retaining washer was my error here. It created friction on the advance cam, keeping the firing from advancing properly. The added friction kinked the cam pin and also caused some shavings from somewhere.

Will update with a test run tomorrow. I also welcome any notes from you guys, I'm new to this engine.

So- the washer was not an issue. It keeps the advance unit in place but does not bind the points cam no matter how wide. The screw holding everything down, however, was grinding on the points cover.

So I ran tests without the points cover on, and no different.

Now it seems the left cylinder is not firing. Since everything is new on the bike, including wiring, stator, reg, coils, leads, plug caps, points, condenser, etc. I've broken out the ohmmeter to find any shorts to ground. Doesn't make sense that there would be any, since it ran perfect a couple days ago and nothing has changed on the loom, but I'm looking anyways.

The Ohmeter is supposed to beep when there is continuity between two points. Only problem is, it beeps for everything. I even detatched the headlight, and checked continuity across wires with 6" of airspace between them, and it beeps and shows a resistance figure. Absolutely every point on the bike, positive or ground, has continuity. The headlight bucket is plastic so I know those wires aren't touching any kind of ground.

What is going on here?

Is anybody out there?

I'm testing my coils now, they are new Mike's XS 4 ohm (primary) units. I believe the secondary winding on the left coil is bad. Anybody know what is spec for that resistance?

left
primary = 4.1 ohm
secondary = 2,240 ohm

right
primary = 4.0 ohm
secondary = 8,160 ohm

If your multimeter is beeping for continuity across wires that aren't connected (try this on spare wire, not the bike), then your multimeter needs a fuse or is fried.

If you have the old advancer unit, you can swap the center shafts of the unit. To remove, you twist to a certain degree, then pull it right out.

I'm afraid that's about as much as I can offer.