wm style cb450

frenchy said:
Great job, those grips are rockin.
I'm really digging the lid too. Who makes that?
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The helmet is just some old open face that my uncle painted years ago. I guess he was ahead of his time, now there is a ton of custom helmet painters doing crazy shit with those Biltwell lids.
 
huiggityHuy said:
How did you go about doing the mount for the seat? I'm trying to make a similar mount/seat for my bike.
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I tried two ways and both seem to work ok, the first was using a hinge on the front and some bolts right into the seat pan. I just tapped the seat pan for 1/4-20 and bolted it from underneath. Then I wanted to move the position so I used Dual-Lock (3m super velcro) and it seems to be holding up quite nicely. The Dual-Lock has a pull strength of 40lbs/in^2 and I'm using approximately 6 square inches. Once it is locked in place I can practically lift the bike up by the seat, but it's still easy to remove if you introduce some peel while removing it. I stole the stuff from work but it is kind of expensive $10/yd @ 1" width, however you don't need much.
 
Glad it's running right, my 350 had a similar issue, did the full "tune up" New points w/plate(20$ on ebay, NOS), cam chain adjustment, valves and dynamic timing. Night and day difference. Pulls sooo clean now. I too was considering a Dyna kit but don't think i'll be going that way anymore. Great lid, and love your pipes, though they may look a hair better a few inches shorter, You want to go stacked reverse cone or 2-1 with a single reverse cone? or CB style it?
 
Expect to play with the jetting some more with mufflers. If you like the straight pipe look, or sound, at least add some anti-reversion cones at the exhaust ports. Mufflers or baffles of some kind will help considerably, especially in the low and mid rpms. Straight pipes really only work at wide-open throttle, and you really don't spend much time there on a street bike. SWEET looking ride, though.

Semper Fi,
J.D.
 
BluesBiker said:
Expect to play with the jetting some more with mufflers. If you like the straight pipe look, or sound, at least add some anti-reversion cones at the exhaust ports. Mufflers or baffles of some kind will help considerably, especially in the low and mid rpms. Straight pipes really only work at wide-open throttle, and you really don't spend much time there on a street bike. SWEET looking ride, though.

Semper Fi,
J.D.
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so after checking the ignition timing twice, and endlessly fooling with the carbs I've sourced my misfiring/ bogging issues. The right side float was junk and would fill up with gas creating a rich condition through the whole throttle range. Replaced it, cleaned the carbs again and it is running nice and strong now. I also put on some shorty megaphone mufflers from DCC; they sound nice and added that extra backpressure that was needed.

jake
 
awesome looking bike. i as well have a cb450....any way you could take some close up pictures of the electronics under the seat? be very much appreciated because that is what is holding up my build right now....thanks
 
awesome looking bike. I have an extra cb450 frame that i was considering making a bobber. I havent decided what i want to do exactly but you and others have given me ideas with you projects. Good job on the bike.
 
wesley1521 said:
awesome looking bike. i as well have a cb450....any way you could take some close up pictures of the electronics under the seat? be very much appreciated because that is what is holding up my build right now....thanks
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Thanks
here are the best pics I have:
DSCN2162.JPG


DSCN2161.JPG


the battery holder is some box I found at the thrift store, under the seat is an aluminum electronics enclosure that I cut up to fit. If I were to do it again I would fabricate my own from sheet metal because it was more of a pain trying to modify something else.
 
i like the box under the seat i was thinking about moving my ignition switch to a place other than the factory location.
 
DenverCB450 said:
Thanks
here are the best pics I have:
DSCN2162.JPG


DSCN2161.JPG


the battery holder is some box I found at the thrift store, under the seat is an aluminum electronics enclosure that I cut up to fit. If I were to do it again I would fabricate my own from sheet metal because it was more of a pain trying to modify something else.
Click to expand...

awesome set up....thanks for posting them. i have in the mail the xs coils with new plugs and wires.....and new points and condensers are coming as well (from dcc). so with that ignition is it set up similar to stock or is it a turn key ignition? and is that switch next to the key the kill switch?
see i have gotten rid of my handle bar switches and am trying to just run something a little similar.....i have been studying the wiring schematics like mad trying to figure out what i can eliminate and what i need to keep....for now i will keep my push button starter....ill have the high/low switch....and then would you say that i can have one other master switch that will be power and then all the other loads or accessories?
sorry for all the questions but i figure another 450 builder would be the best to ask.....thank you for the help i really appreciate it
 
Here is the list of what I'm using for electronics

12v Scooter Battery 7amp
Ignition switch
points
1x condenser
Mike's XS Coils
Rectifier from Radio Shack
Stock Regulator
High/Low Switch for head light
On/Off Switch for head light (back light stays on all the time)
Brake switch on rear pedal
30amp fuse for ignition
15amp fuse for lights

I'm trying to get more current to the coils because I think I have a weak spark. I may spend the $150 to get a Dyna and some better cables but for now it runs ok. No turn signals here in Denver so those are left out. If you want to run the electric start you'll need a bigger battery.

here is a good diagram which I used for wiring:

- Removed diagram due to copyright complaint -

good luck
 
I am so glad you got the diagram up. Do the white and yellow wires off the stator act as phase? Like low rev and high rev to recharge the bat and run the accs?
 
boisdarc said:
I am so glad you got the diagram up. Do the white and yellow wires off the stator act as phase? Like low rev and high rev to recharge the bat and run the accs?
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Gang them together. It's a dual winding sumbitch, one for low load and one for high load. Unfortunately...low load is really weak. If you simply strip'm and tien them together to a chubby wire, like 10g...up to the battery you'll be miles ahead.
 
DenverCB450 said:
Here is the list of what I'm using for electronics

12v Scooter Battery 7amp
Ignition switch
points
1x condenser
Mike's XS Coils
Rectifier from Radio Shack
Stock Regulator
High/Low Switch for head light
On/Off Switch for head light (back light stays on all the time)
Brake switch on rear pedal
30amp fuse for ignition
15amp fuse for lights

I'm trying to get more current to the coils because I think I have a weak spark. I may spend the $150 to get a Dyna and some better cables but for now it runs ok. No turn signals here in Denver so those are left out. If you want to run the electric start you'll need a bigger battery.

here is a good diagram which I used for wiring:

- Removed diagram due to copyright complaint -

good luck
Click to expand...

thanks a lot i really appreciate the help.....ill hopefully get this thing going before too long but you know how bike builds go (especially since this is not my made ride right now....)
 
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