my 1977 Yamaha XS750 2d "Yamakaze"

rocketman

Been Around the Block
Here is my 1977 Yamaha XS750 2d I picked up last week for $300 (suppose to run after clutch,battery installed). I am planning on a full tear down on this one. Any help or advice is always welcome as I am a newbie at this.
 
also' if the motor runs with no obvious problems how far should I tear it down to inspect. I am gonna paint it so I would hate to do a full tear down then get the motor back in and have problems. I plan on rebuilding all carbs, adding pods,rejet, and paint engine. I should also mention that it has 29000 miles turns over by hand and has been kept inside.
 
Oh no man, if it turns over by hand, I hope you don't mean that you can kick start it over with just pushing the kick lever with your hand. If that's the case then it's going to need to have the cylinders torn off. If you can bring it to a shop and have them do a leakdown test you can find out what your issue may be. Compression tests tell you the compression. But they don't tell the story. If you do a leakdown test with compressed air, you can listen for air coming from the intake, exhaust, or crankcase.
 
REVIS I do not understand? With gas tank off and drained I grabbed the crank gear(clutch side open for clutch job) and it turns with plugs out. not easy i might ad.
 
Does anyone have any tricks to remove the rear swingarm on this? The right side bolt came out easy but the left is a bugger. broke 2 allen wrenches. 1 socket w/allen insert one normal allen wrench.
 
Which side is giving you problems, the swingarm side or the shaft drive side? You might want to put the other side back in hand tight and loosen them both evenly to reduce the stress on the bolt. Consult the manual!!
 
kingofnuggets: It is the shaft side. I tried putting the other side in but no luck. I started tearing it down. as I said I am having a problem removing the rear swingarm. The exhaust has a pretty good dent in it. Is it repairable? no visible holes.
 
hi, this may seem like a dumb question but are you turning the nut the right way? If i remember mine i used some wd-40 and let it sit for about ten mins then hit it again. Remember to save all the bolts they are a pain to get once lost.
 
if its left loose and right tight then yes. I just recieved a copy of the clymer service manual today. I'll go through it and see if I see anything.
 
I'm down to the frame so making good progress. I have had a few setbacks. Sliced my finger with a cutoff tool removing unwanted tabs, found a rust hole in the frame and found some broken gear teeth in the pan of my motor which was suppose to only need a clutch to run. I guess for now I'll focus on getting the frame welded and stripped and then work on the rear hoop. Its a learning experience!!!!!!!!!!
 
I would try to locate which gear those teeth came off of, shouldn't be that hard unless it's in the transmission, then you would need to split your cases. Your probably going to need to split them anyway to clean them out and make sure there aren't any pieces hiding inside.
 
I am done removing tabs from the frame but it still needs some welding and grinding then I'll strip and paint. How do you guys like that epoxy appliance paint fro frames? I broke a fin off the cylinder trying to remove the stobborn bugger. I guess i will have to go to Ebay for a used one. What all do you guys replace when rebuilding an engine besides gasket, seals etc.
 
rocketman said:
What all do you guys replace when rebuilding an engine besides gasket, seals etc.

Depends on what is worn. Measure bore, piston, etc. New rings and camchain definitely....may as well get the valves done while you're in this deep....and you have to sort out the transmission by the sounds of things. Apparently Triumph triple carbs slot straight on (mid 90's Trident ??) - they are far superior to the Yamaha carbs by all reports.

Good luck with it ;)
 
If the only thing "wrong" with the cylinders is the broken fin just JB Weld the lil' fooker back on to save your money. No one will be able to tell ... I guess except for us since you already told us.
 
Alright more! Frame is at welder getting rear hoop and a rust issue fixed. I also took a two halves of a socket down to have a 4inch pipe welded between them for an on the cheap clutch tool. I also got a lead on a motor that runs good compression but only needs valve seals so i may grab that up. Also went to West Marine store today for the ingredients for a fiberglass seat base. THIS is what I bought for resin. Anybody use this stuff? Pics will be up when I get frame back from welder.
 
Little progress as of late. Frame,cylinder still at the welder. I did however bead blast a whole bunch of parts. My advise on that issue is either pay someone to blast or rent a REALLY BIG air compressor. We used an 80 gallon 2 stage compressor and basically it ran non stop. For all you lemon juicers heres a pic of a carb after boiling for an hour in lemon juice and water. STINK WARNING!!!!!!!!!!
 
Finally after having a baby,selling a house,moving in with dad for 2 months,buying a house and renovating the entire first floor,moving I am starting to get back into working on the XS.
I removed the old kitchen from the house and used in to set up a work area
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Three new tires I think I am set on the top two
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Headlight out of a 67 Yamaha White Orbs is working on a bad ass decal for the speedo(post later)
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I worked a while tonight on the Tail foam, Hopefully I can glass next week. Tank has been repaired and primed but still needs a bit of fine filler.
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Painted wheels survived the move! I have all new bearings to put in.
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Looks like a nice space to work on it. Give me your tank. I don't feel like filling in the dents. We better see some progress now that you are situated.
 
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