1972 Honda CB 350 project # 1

the compression looks very near perfect don't try to fix it ;)
as far as carburetion don't ask for help if you are running pods
 
xb33bsa said:
the compression looks very near perfect don't try to fix it ;)
as far as carburetion don't ask for help if you are running pods

That's great!
I'm not running pods, just the K&N style filters. Does that picture of the spark plugs give any indication of what's going on?
 
xb33bsa said:
well it looks carboned up rich was the plug taken out after a hard full throttle run plug chop ?

Well I've been having a hard time keeping the idle even, it gets kinda eratic when it wants to.. what do you mean by "run plug chop"?

Joey
 
as far as the idle is your ignition all tuned up ?
plug readings are only really gonna tell you jetting is correct at high throttle run preferably wide open for at least a couple hundred yards on a hot engine then you kill the motor quick clutch in preferably rolling up to a place, take yer time,you can pull a wrench out and check the plug for a reading, thats a plug chop
once you let the motor idle it will get darker sometimes just plain black
 
xb33bsa said:
as far as the idle is your ignition all tuned up ?
plug readings are only really gonna tell you jetting is correct at high throttle run preferably wide open for at least a couple hundred yards on a hot engine then you kill the motor quick clutch in preferably rolling up to a place, take yer time,you can pull a wrench out and check the plug for a reading, thats a plug chop
once you let the motor idle it will get darker sometimes just plain black

No I am waiting on a new set of points to come in, and then I'm going to set the timing with the timing light I have.I wanted to make sure I did that first before I upgrade.

Is the electronic ignition worth getting on these bikes? I do that on all my aircooled VW's because its a worthy upgrade.
 
well i had the pamco and it worked, until it didn't ???left me stranded...i sent it in for repair a year ago no word back :-[
.i switched back to points(get nos honda well worth the $40+ they cost,do not get cheep china points )
new points set correctly work great and you don't need to touch them for thousands of miles
 
xb33bsa said:
well i had the pamco and it worked, until it didn't ???left me stranded...i sent it in for repair a year ago no word back :-[
.i switched back to points(get nos honda well worth the $40+ they cost,do not get cheep china points )
new points set correctly work great and you don't need to touch them for thousands of miles

Ok awesome I'll stick with them then. Like I said I really want to get the bike running smoothly then I will tear down and redo the bike right!

Joey
 
crazypj said:
On Beetle?
;D
Hahaha no I got that down! If the CB had a distributor I'd be all set on it too! I like to make sure I completely understand how to do stuff before I dive in :-[
 
if the bike runs now,do not mess with the backing plate position and or mark where it is
swap out the points, gap them at .014" there is a tiny hash mark on the points cam where to set the points
then as long as the bike will start up,and run, hook up the timing light number 1 left
set full advance(run engine up to 3500 rpm when doing so) between the marks by moving points backing late
then hook up timing light to number 2 right cylinder and check full advance if it is off it is changed by adjusting points gap a bit,wider gap advances smaller gap retards
when swapping out points it is pointless and a waste of time to set static timing, just move on to the full advance setting,this is givin that the advancer works smoothly and has spring tension to smoothly return
 
xb33bsa said:
if the bike runs now,do not mess with the backing plate position and or mark where it is
swap out the points, gap them at .014" there is a tiny hash mark on the points cam where to set the points
then as long as the bike will start up,and run, hook up the timing light number 1 left
set full advance(run engine up to 3500 rpm when doing so) between the marks by moving points backing late
then hook up timing light to number 2 right cylinder and check full advance if it is off it is changed by adjusting points gap a bit,wider gap advances smaller gap retards
when swapping out points it is pointless and a waste of time to set static timing, just move on to the full advance setting,this is givin that the advancer works smoothly and has spring tension to smoothly return

Great breakdown, I'll hop on it as soon as the points come in! Thanks for all of your help thus far!

Joey
 
Hello again! Got the bike fired up and running ok. When I hook up the timing light to 1 "LF & LT" is right at the top. Is that right? Or should " F&T" be at top?

Thanks,
Joey
 
xb33bsa said:
the factory service manual shows all that better than anybody can type it
Very true I will look into it more the idle surges big time going from 1500-4000 sometimes lol
 
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