CB77 Superhawk Build

Good luck with the seat, hope it turns out nice. I've got a cb77 in the wings right now. I'm looking at this bike hard: http://deezcaferacer.blogspot.com/ (the black bike at the bottom of this post)

I'll probably build a similar bike, but I'm not gonna chop the brackets as much, and I'm gonna go with a factory-inspired metal flake dark red paint scheme. OPen springs at the back and open cl77 forks up front (no covers) Got a set of 360 scrambler pipes I'm gonna to mod to fit. I'm also fond of the factory race seat with low pipes:




I want to have the cafe seat and a race seat, and my custom scrambler pipes and the factory low megaphone pipes so I can switch the bike around when I get bored with it.


I'm really excited about showcasing that 305 though. Very beautiful engine, who cares if it's only 25hp?

That picture looks just like the Hawk we raced, seems like it has almost all the kit parts including the alloy rims. Ours had the little flyscreen/number plate also which was really cool. I think your right Teaser, a 350 kit, mild megacycle cam and a pair of tuned length but baffled megas would be just perfect for the street.

That one is very pretty. Forks are 67 ish alloy sliders with what looks to be a pre-63 top triple clamp. Megs do look like Race kit aka "810" parts as are the seat and the air intakes.

Footpegs appear to be stock pegs in the passenger position. Race kit pegs are very different and I just realized that my set of race kit pegs and brake lever were in a box of spares I gave to the guy that bought my bike. I got them from Pete Rhodes in the UK donkeys ages ago.

how much work is involved in the 350 kit? Any motor mods will be a phase 2 operation. I'm just trying to get it road worth and comfortable, and then i'll build it accordingly, based on how it suits my needs.

Are any of you guys running the electronic ignition system? If so, which version (i think there are 3 out there) and do you think it's a good upgrade?

+1 on the megacycle cam and switching gear ratios. Don't mean to hijack, but would high compression 305 pistons perform better, or the 350 kit?

i read in bill silver's book (if i remember correctly) that you get better performance with the stock pistons paired with higher pressure valve springs, than with the weisco pistons, which some people think are junk.

this is all second-hand knowledge, so take that with a grain of salt. maybe teazer can chime back in.

Nice starting point, and a couple really nice "to shoot for" examples.

Almost enough motivation to start on my CL72 again...

Oh, the attitudes at the 305 site? Try having a CL/CB 72/77 hodgepodge... I couldn't even register it over there...

350 kit makes more power and torque out of the box. Port the head and add a cam and it really wakes it up.

I used CB750 liners machined down to the appropriate height and very modified CB350 pistons but 350 kit pistons are available now from Les Barker or Bore-tech.

Wiseco make great pistons. I have melted a few in 2 strokes, but that's hardly their fault. I used Kawasaki 615 kit pistons a while ago in a CB160 based racer after a small amount of modification.

Thanks guys. I'm going to get it running as good as possible before I crack the cases. What do you guys think about any of the electronic ignition kits? I understand they won't help me to faster, but what about reliability?

Yeah scruffy, I'm probably gonna switch the motor around a little too. Tonite I'm looking at swapping on a CL77 right cover and gutting all the kicker parts

I started weighing the parts coming off, and going on. I'm going to try and keep an updated list, grinding off tabs doesn't count, but I've got a good pile of "junk" going.

The stock exhausts are 0.5 lbs lighter than the emgo dunstalls (each). + 1 lb
The stock seat weighs 7 lbs, my fiberglass cafe seat weighs 2.5 lbs (before upholstery). - 4.5 lbs (approx)
Airbox + Toolbox subtraction. - 3 lbs
Rear fender and tail light hack job. -3.25 lbs
Front fender hack job. -1.5 lbs

Current Weight Loss - 11.25 lbs.

There's not much on the bike to strip down, but every bit counts right?

Got the exhaust bracket modified to get the pipe in the right spot, or so I thought. When the center stand is "up" the curved foot lever used for bringing down the stand is touching the underside of the pipe. There is a giant rubber donut around it so I think maybe it's supposed to do that?

Is the pipe going to get hot enough to destroy that rubber piece? Let me know if my description doesn't make sense.

New pipe on the left, old pipe on the right. Sorry if the pic is upside down, it wasn't when I uploaded it, but it appears to be now.

Rubber stopper on the stand where it contacts the exhaust is common on many makes and models of bikes. I have one on my street/race bike and it's OK so far

Thanks teazer. I need to swap the right foot perch with my spare one, because the one that's currently on the bike is broken where the exhaust mounts. Then I can get the second pipe on and get the originals up on eBay. Then hopefully I can get a bit if cash to buy more parts.

New hagon shocks and real pod filters are on my horizon, and some new cables.

swapping in a pocketbike horn for the factory unit will net some weight loss.

aluminum wheel hoops might help too. I know it's 1.85x18 36 hole. You guys know if there would be an issue with me running a pair of dirtbike rear rims (like from a CR or RM)?

v30magna said:

swapping in a pocketbike horn for the factory unit will net some weight loss.

Click to expand...

i'm deleting the horn all together. none of my bikes have horns. I'm ditching the electric starter as well, it's not even hooked up right now. Doing these two mods will save me a bit of weight, nothing to write home about, but some. It also allows me to delete all of the wiring going to the handlebars. No indicators, no electric start, no horn. I don't think my bike currently has an activator for the brake light on the front brake.

99% or aftermarket aluminum rims won't work without bodging. The brake hubs on a CB77 are about twice the size of CB350 or yamaha XS hubs, making the spoke angles incorrect which will cause the spokes to bow. Apparently Buchanan can drill rims for the appropriate angle but they're about $250 a piece, plus spokes.

Currently I can't justify $700-800 for new wheels when mine are still in good condition. I know there are cheap rims on ebay from china, but they'd take too much work to actually get them to fit.

Is the bike a tls or sls front brake? My CL72 came with CL305/Penton/Bultaco spec Ceriani fork and an sls drum. Since switched for a Titan hoop, spokes and hub, and either a later removable stay Titan brake plate or an early CB tls brake plate (no makers marks). Worth the extra weight over the sls it came with...

Mine is an "uber cobble job", it also has a CB72 or CB77 tls rear wheel assembly, CB/CL 77 sped Ceriani rear shocks, 530 or larger chain and sprockets (forget which, but serious overkill), CB72/77 low pipes and 10 or 12 inch glass pack mufflers, CB/CL77 carbs, no air box, no tools, no fenders (came with a broken cafe tail piece and ancient Preston Petty plastic front fender, with aluminum fork brace, that was cracked), no ignition barrel switch (toggle instead, was a race bike), no center stand (11 pound weight savings supposedly, believe that when you weigh yours and tell us)... What can I say, not only was the bike kind of running (since seized up) and free, they paid my fuel to go get it rather than scrap it out.

I'm starting to like these old sloper Hondas a bit more. Nice to see more of them drug out of the barn and being put back in service. Can't wait for my engine to be back in running shape, 248cc is perfect for terrorizing the neighbors on our narrow winding country lane.

Mine is a twin leading brake front suspension.

how you like the dunstall style pips ?