XS750 to XS896 big bore

I still want to know if my engine puts out 80+ hp or just sounds like breathing fire time to book that dyno run i guess..
 
Just like to clarify a couple of things if I may:

3 angle vale seats are the only way to go. Grinding valves is so pre-WW2. Some shops use special grinding wheels, others use cutters (Neway for example) and my preference is to find a shop with a SERDI machine.

Deck height is the distance that the piston crown is above (positive) or below (negative) the "deck ie top of the block/cylinder/barrel.

Valve clearance should always be by the book. Cams are ground with what are known as silencing ramps and they allow the cam to slowly and progressively lift and lower the valve. Too much clearance means that the cam slams the valve open and then lets it drop back onto the seat causing excessive wear and possible head loss. Too little and the valves tend to not close sufficiently when hot.

Increasing or decreasing valve clearance will tend to change valve lift and timing but barely enough to matter. The way to get more duration and/or lift is to get cams reground by Waggot or Wade in Oz or by Megacycle in the US.

You are exactly where many people were when bikes started to improve dramatically, why improve and old dog so that it is still not as good as a less expensive modern bike. Only you can answer that. The answer is different for all of us. I like to improve old bikes. I tried a VFR. Wonderful bike that did everything perfectly sand it had no soul. I wasn't vested in it. It was a very efficient tool but I enjoy the planning and execution as much as the riding. I raced Vintage bikes for ages and the ratio of wrenching to riding is outrageous for most people but that floats my boat.

No reason it has to float yours too. Just get the thing running and ride it or get that XSR and have some fun. Summer is just around the corner downunder.
 
Hi Teaser
Totally understand where you are coming from. I am not going racing, it is just a fun build. And I agree the spanner time is equal to road time. To be perfectly honest to most fun riding is out in the bush on my Husaberg 550.
From my point of view one of the most important features to build in reliability is fitting a decent oil cooler. My 750 has the extra high volume sump fitted, and takes 4.5L of oil per change! Makes engine removal a pain as you have drop the sump and remove the oil pump so you can clear the frame. This was a retro factory fix for the early engines that had a bad rep for #2 big end letting go. The 850s had an oilcooler as standard. The 896 has the standard sump so it is getting a bigger oil cooler.
Might be a bit too optimistic thinking the 896 is going to be finished this Australian summer! Some domestic duties this weekend that may limit progress. At least I have the 750 for a bit of giggle time.
Cheers
Tim
 
I found that my engine hardly even reaches operating temp at normal running with deep sump and oil cooler. It goes up to 90'c and stays there no matter what. Prob means i can do a paris dakar rally!
 
Dave, think you might bottom out the suspension, and I am not sure where that sissy bar would end up!

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
 
XS750AU said:
So does that make it an RV?

my last camp was an adjustable shower curtain, an air mattress and a tarp over my pickup box... RV luxury to many I'm sure ;D
 
I was not quite sure about the exact design of the squish plate for the oil cooler, so I spent today making up a practice part out of MDF.
Happy with the final result and it all bolts up tight! Just got to get a 3mm end mill to machine the O ring groove, then I will be set to go.
 

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Now thats something! Wish i could do things like that. My adapter is slightly thinner i think. Found a retailer in sweden who still had a stock of lockhart aftermarket coolers for xs750's since the 70's. Around 150$ for a complete kit, but your way is awesomer!
 
If I could have found an XS850 oil cooler, either OEM or aftermarket I would have bought it. But you have to get all the parts, including squish plate and threaded adapter socket. XS1100 and XJ650 are the correct size but have the outlets exiting out the side rather than front and foul the engine mounts. After 2 years of searching without luck, I finally gave up and bought a Ebay Chinese 7 row AN8 Universal oil cooler kit. I knew at the time that the sandwich plate in the kit would not fit, so that's why I am making a new plate. Now if you have a spare XS850 plate & socket in the shed, let me know, as they are a more elegant solution!!!
Confirmed a few more measurements today and I have been able to reduce the thickness from 32mm to 28mm. How thick are the genuine plates?
Photos are of all the features that need to be considered when making the plate.
Cheers
Tim
 

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http://www.roffesshop.se/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=Xs750&product_id=14770
They can still apparently be bought from sweden.
Edit: this one was even cheaper, no thermostat. And it looks like ports are facing the right way.
http://www.roffesshop.se/index.php?route=product/product&path=71&product_id=14765
 
Thanks Dave
The cost came to AU$390, so I passed on it and will stick with shed time!!!!!! Thank you for your help though.
Lucky day - I was able to spend most of it in the shed - next weekend is a write off!!
Morning was oil cooler and afternoon was the start of the headers. Cut all the 90o bends to length and flanged them with the tool I made and a ball peen hammer. Very happy with the result. I also made up some new header clamps out of the off cuts.
The photos are the sequence of forming.
Cheers
Tim
 

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You're doing some cool work here. I'm on board.
 
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