1969 CB350: Kick-start assemble repair questions.

jonnymedia

New Member
Hi again everyone.

Could use some more advice for my fixes of my 1969 CB350K0.

So, I'm green to this but getting my hands dirty and trying to do as much as I can between myself, Clymers and this forum. I've recently discovered the problem with my kick-start, and could use some advice, tips on the process and parts if you don't mind.

The issue:
Kick-start worked fine and fired up the engine with ease, however it would not spring back and easily flop down while riding.

The problem (from what I know & see):
  • I removed the Camshaft cover which revealed a small broken chunk of metal. It was easy to spot where it broke from, the "spindle" on the kick-starter shaft (See attached photo & micofiche).
  • Replacements. This looks something ebay can best help me with. A quick search reveals this:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-HONDA-CB350-CB-350-KICK-STARTER-SPINDLE-ASSY-B52-/260468780008?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3ca5262be8

    I'll also need new gaskets, so this looks like the correct match.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-350-CL350-CB350-Engine-Gasket-Set-1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-New-/360423546379?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53eaeade0b

    Any confirmation from anyone would significantly reduce my purchase anxiety.

  • Removal. I was really hoping this simply slid out so I could slide in the replacement when I get it, but it's catching. I'm assuming it's still connected to the gear, or somethere's some catch that needs to be removed in that general area. I noticed that when rotated slightly and pulled, it'll come out, but not completely. Do I need to remove any other covers to get at this from the other side? Is there a trick to this that the blurry Clymers photos and simplistly cryptic languange doens't communicate well? I'm hoping I don't have to remove the left hand engine cover, as a couple screws are stripped.

Thanks so much everyone. You are all a great resources for this community, especially those like me with the love, but without the experience. Any thoughts you may have will without a doubt be a helping hand.

much appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • CB350_kickstart_spindle.jpg
    CB350_kickstart_spindle.jpg
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  • CB350_kickstart_spindle_microfiche.jpg
    CB350_kickstart_spindle_microfiche.jpg
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You have to split the cases to replace that. You might be able to fix that with a little bit of spot welding. That broken piece is what the return spring hooks onto.
 
You'll have to split the case to get that out and replaced. Parts #15, 2, and 1 are on the inside of the case. 15 is a snap ring. The good news is that the only thing you'll have to tear apart is the clutch, left side cover and alternator. You'll have to place the engine upside down on your workbench, and remove the bottom. Replace the part, then seal everything up with a thin layer of Hondabond and bolt the case back together.

The other option would be to have a good welder put a nub back on without damaging the case or anything else.

If this bike has been sitting for a while, most of the gaskets on cylinder base and head will probably start leaking anyway, so it's probably a good idea to get a gasket set. And while you're at it, if you're going to go all the way, you might get an oil seal kit too.
 
noexit said:
You'll have to split the case to get that out and replaced. Parts #15, 2, and 1 are on the inside of the case. 15 is a snap ring. The good news is that the only thing you'll have to tear apart is the clutch, left side cover and alternator. You'll have to place the engine upside down on your workbench, and remove the bottom. Replace the part, then seal everything up with a thin layer of Hondabond and bolt the case back together.

The other option would be to have a good welder put a nub back on without damaging the case or anything else.

If this bike has been sitting for a while, most of the gaskets on cylinder base and head will probably start leaking anyway, so it's probably a good idea to get a gasket set. And while you're at it, if you're going to go all the way, you might get an oil seal kit too.

Thanks noexit.

Any chance this can all be done without removing the engine (you mention placing the engine upside down)? That there alone dramatically increases the scope of all this (and chances of me causing more issues) as right now I've really just removed pegs, pedals, exhausts and the right cover.
 
Nope. The engine will have to come out. Drain the oil, pull the carbs, disconnect the starter from the solenoid, the vent tube, disconnect the alternator and neutral switch wire and points, and remove all the mounting bolts. I think you have to remove the rear brake lever also. You kind of tilt the engine up and back, and slide it out the right side. It helps to have two people, and wrap the bottom and down tubes to keep from scratching them.
 
Ouch. Good experience to try that but I feel I might be a bit risky, more so than finding a mobile spot welder around Toronto/North York and finding out rates to just get that tab back on. Many thanks.
 
Make sure to double check the direction of install on #2 before sealing cases. Some how I installed mine backwards ::) the first time I split my cases,and it caused #15 to pop off into the bottom of the oil sump resulting in having to re-split the cases and go thru everything again. ;D

Also, do some research and find a copy of the actual Honda manual, after rebuilding my engine with a Clymer when I was younger and now having the honda factory manual the info, pics and specifications are much more helpful and easy to understand.
 
Also be careful not to spill your transmissions guts all over the place. They rest in the top of the case. Flip it upside down and carefully open it like a clam shell from back to front. That 40 year old hondabond is some tough shit. Heat will be required and some very careful prying. Pick up a tube of Hondabond off the net for putting it back together.
 
Alright everyone. The engine is out and on the workbench. Advise here very helpful so far. I just want to double check something here before progressing. Are you saying I can leave the cylinder heads on, flip it, and work carefully to not knock any of the transmission parts out of place. I'll have to balance this all with some wood block or something, but just making sure I can make this broken kick start shaft replacement with it on and the engine will be fine resting on the cylinders.

Thanks again.

j
 
youll be fine. if i could figure it out when i was 16, you can figure it out.

Just work at it systematically and make sure your work area is SPOTLESS.
 
do you have a new shaft yet? cuz I have a new old stock one that I bought before I realized that they changed them in 1970 (CB350K2). Let me know if you want it!
 
Hi, I'm interested for sure, send me a private pm on that please. However, I have one hurdle here...

Getting these damn cases split. I know now that it might require some heat, a pb wrench of some sort, and some elbow grease, but I'm not 100% confident I have all the right bots of. From the bottom (engine upside down) or removed 4 large bolts and 8 smaller ones. Although this calmer is saying there's 5 large ones and 11 smaller. I can't find then others so not sure if I need to pull off the alternator/flywheel to uncover more bolts or the book is referring to bike after the 69k0 that had more bolts.

Thanks again!!!!!!!!


4ac609dc-97ed-afc8.jpg
 
There are a couple in the top that need to come out as well. Flip her over and take a look. Not at home right now but I believe it 2 or 3. Pretty sure its 2.
 
This is from a K2 but it should be the same.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1970-honda-cl350k2/o/m9149#sch394180
 
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