Ultimate Vintage/Cafe style Leather Jacket?

devilishdesigner

Been Around the Block
If you could have the perfect retro/vintage style motorbike jacket what would it be? What would it look like and what features would it have?

We're looking at whether it is possible to get a top quality vintage style jacket with the features people want to see, made here in Australia. I have a few ideas already of the general design direction but am keen to here from you all on what features you would like to see and what your favourite design is at the moment.

To begin with here's a few of the ideas we're considering:
Removable CE approved shoulder, elbow and back protectors
Sleeve zips replaced with leather gusset and pop clip at wrist
At least 1 external pocket (hidden zip/s)
Zip to bottom of jacket (no waist pop clip)
Possibly perforated leather under sleeve
Leather flap behind zip for wind chill
Cotton lining

And here's the styles that interest us:
Classic Walden Miller TT and Mars Australian Made jackets
Roland Sands Ronin
Aero Leather Cafe Racer
Classic style Triumphs and Schotts

What are you loving and what would you like to see?
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There are a million options in a plain cafe style jacket. What is hard to find, though, and speaks to the vintage style you describe (and one I really like, personally, so good on ya!) is the quilted/ribbed accents like a few of your examples show. They key, I think, is getting the stuffing (?) right, so it isn't simply an embroidered pattern but instead has some dimension to it. One that I particularly like is the Lewis Leathers 'Monza.' To me, it's important to keep it fairly simple and understated. I like the subtle touches, not sixty different buckles and zippers and flaps and chaos.

Best of luck! I think there's an under-served market within the overpopulated industry.
 
Cosworth, those guys have some decent designs but have you read some of their descriptions?! Here's a direct quote:

"Black leather jackets are very cool and stylish designs brand. Jackets are not only for bikers. Wear leather jackets with jeans and dress pent. In winter season folk wear these type of jackets also in parties ,office and business presentations. Awesome and pleasant leather jacket is much valuable between institution fellows and friends. Jackets keep your personality delightful and delicious."

Reads like it's the same person who writes all those cafe racer Craigslist abomination ads. Alright, keep your personality delightful and delicious.
 
Yep, English as a second language and descriptive marketing speak are a weird combination.

Now read this crap from ICON's website:

"Painstakingly constructed from the absolute finest Brazilian cowhide, the Chapter jacket is available with two unique finishes. The black and grey colorways feature a drum-dyed antique leather with a refined matte finish. The brown colorway features an aniline-dyed natural grain treated with a hand-applied waxed leather finish. In the world of leather garments – it gets no better. Internally the Chapter packs a full complement of D3O® CE approved impact protectors: shoulders, elbows, and a CE approved back protector. Custom produced oversized YKK® zippers, with a tactical black oxide finish, provide the ultimate security of closure while safeguarding your position. Intricately detailed removable vest liner provides core warmth without adverse bulk. No matter what type of bike you choose to ride, no matter your mission, the Icon 1000 Chapter will see your objectives met. - See more at: http://icon1000.com/collection/icon-1000-chapter-jacket-black/#sthash.4gvxkxau.dpuf"

Any website that uses the word "colorway" is gonna get a beating from me.
 
Thanks guys

RyanJ, the padded elbows and shoulders is an interesting thing. no padding can look a little flat and plain, too much looks comical and out of proportion with the rest of the jacket, there is definitely a balance to be had somewhere in there to reference the old soft padded jackets. I notice some of the Monzas gain this effect by adding a nice thick leather patch externally at the elbow and shoulder rather than working with padding, which is also something I am considering.

Withers, I do love the assymetry of the Montana, great looking and functional jacket

Alongside 'colourway', why would you 'custom produce' an oversized YKK zip? I've seen plenty of 30ish year old jackets still wearing their original standard size YKK zips, surely going larger than what is already available from one of the most successful zip manufacturers around will only increase spots for wind to get in?
 
I just have a hard time finding a jacket that has long enough sleeves. Riding in the cafe position always seems like my sleeves are too short
 
This one seems to have long enough sleeves. I'm finding the same with non-gauntlet gloves. Not covering the wrist well enough.

http://whitesheepleather.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=71_79&product_id=61
 
Love my Vanson. I have the Model A but the Comet is the more traditional cafe racer. Armor would be nice and is probably a necessity in a jacket being marketed today unless you're ultra-traditional and boutique like Aero.

There's a place in Seattle called Insurrection which stocks a longer version of the Vanson Comet, which has a double-ended zipper. Wish my Model A had a zipper like that. Nice to unzip up from the bottom to tailor the length to riding position and offer some front venting in a classic ventless jacket.

You might consider an oilcloth/waxed cloth version of whatever jacket you do. Horsehide would be my preference for leather if I had the choice. Nickel or brass finish are nice hardware options.
 
if you really want a jacket with heritage,straight from the HEART of cafe racing you got to have lewis leathers....too expensive for me (700 pounds at least per jacket).

http://www.lewisleathers.com/89
 

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I personally think "heritage and heart" with a pricetag like that is the exact opposite of what cafe is about.
 
Youre absolutel righr cosworth.these are nowadays jackets for yuppies.

But back in the day these were the jackets that the 'ton up boys' in london would wear.

The jackets are handsewn in london by british craftsmen and this is real cowhide...the shop is as big as my closet so they dont get rich by selling them.

Craftsmanship has its price.

I cant afford it:)

But formwise this jackets are imo perfect.
 
I have had my eye on this one from Allstate leather. oh and a +1 for the no bull description. what the jacket is and thats it.

"Men's Motorcycle Jacket in Brown Buffalo Leather. 3 front zippered pockets, 1 snap pocket, 2 inside pockets and zippered sleeves. Full sleeve removable zip out lining, side laces & half belt with belt buckle for adjustment in Silver hardware."
 

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I started a thread about it already, but Gasolina's "Speedway" jacket can now be ordered with pockets for d3o armor. Even with the jacket, shipping to AUS, and armor, it's still cheaper and better looking than anything of it's competitors.
 
This thread was a bad idea. I really, really want an Aero Fontana Racer now.

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Thankfully another 2 years in Africa mean I will not act on that ridiculous impulse.
 
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