Yet another SR250 Tracker UK Build

Have a look at these and see what you think

http://www.classicbikeshop.co.uk/frame-chassis-mudguards/mudguards.html

could they be cut to size then skotched to the dull finish your after??
 
Well summers over and building is back underway.

It's been a few months as I have been waiting for the cylinder head to be welded (the exhaust studs had gone loose and stripped). Anyway after months of waiting it's done :)

Untitled by eastham_david, on Flickr


and whilst waiting, I have been looking for some side panels, I have tried all sorts including XS650/400, even SR500 ones non fitted and I thought I was going to have to have some made, until I came across these at a local breakers. Suzuki GN125 panels. They fit perfectly. 8)

They need some attachments fabricating and then we are in business.

I priced up a lightweight, dry battery and they are £100 ($165 !!) so I opted for these panels so I could use the standard lead acid batteries that are considerably cheaper (£25)


Untitled by eastham_david, on Flickr


Only other awkward thing is trying to get the camshaft bearing out. It's full of media from the aquablasting and it needs replacing. Being a blind bearing (only accessible form 1 side) it's proving very stubborn, even with heat applied to the outside of the head.

any suggestions?
 
vortexracing said:
Only other awkward thing is trying to get the camshaft bearing out. It's full of media from the aquablasting and it needs replacing. Being a blind bearing (only accessible form 1 side) it's proving very stubborn, even with heat applied to the outside of the head.

any suggestions?

Maybe try the kitchen oven to try to expand the head completely. I've seen cylinders and bearing drop from Paris only putting them in the oven. I'd suggest 300F for about 30min at least
 
Not done it myself but I have read where you can fill the space between the bearing and cover with grease, then use a drift the same size as the center bore to create hydraulic pressure to pop blind bearings out.
 
zap2504 said:
Not done it myself but I have read where you can fill the space between the bearing and cover with grease, then use a drift the same size as the center bore to create hydraulic pressure to pop blind bearings out.

This is how I did it. I had a chunk of round stock brass the exact size for it. Messy, but it worked.
 
Cheers guys I'll have a go, the only problem I see with using the oven is I don't want the valve guides coming out as well ::)
 
cosworth said:
This is how I did it. I had a chunk of round stock brass the exact size for it. Messy, but it worked.
I've heard of this technique for removing stubborn pilot bearings from car/truck flywheels, another tip I can add is that if the rod you have is not that tight on the center bore, instead of using only grease, use small strips of old rag covered in grease through the center bore, with the rod and a hammer. If it fills up, get another piece of rag and stuff it in there till the bearing is out
 
Yip, a bit slow though, Bearing out and new one in :)

GN250 side panels, and tabs for the panels, fitted over Easter. Tank Lifted, front bobbins lowered & Battery box next on the list.

Please ignore the crap welding, it's just me tacking the stuff into place, off to a mates who will be doing a much better job.

Standard rear mudguard fitted but moved forward, and this allows for the plastic liner to still fit in front of it.

IMG_2567 by eastham_david, on Flickr

IMG_2564 by eastham_david, on Flickr

IMG_0173 by eastham_david, on Flickr

IMG_7642 by eastham_david, on Flickr

IMG_7644 by eastham_david, on Flickr
 
not sure, but it's a 'Vixen Aqua Blaster'


aqua-blaster.jpg
 
I had one of these systems years ago when I was manufacturing replica Sports cars. It used glass bead mixed with water. The ued bead / water was collected into a hopper and dried off before being recycled.

You can buy soda / sand blast pots for around £150 - £200, but it's an open air total loss system ! They give the same sort of results as shown in this thread.

Excellent work so far BTW. 8)
 
Well we at off again, other things have got in the way, but the engine re-build has started.

Untitled by eastham_david, on Flickr

The bad news is it's 2 years since I stripped it and I'm struggling to remember certain bits :(

Some help would be much appreciated gents.

Firstly, the hole in the threaded head above the crank centreline, does anything go in it?

Untitled by eastham_david, on Flickr

and 2ndly I seem to have two bolts left over. The problem is I bagged a load of them up and sent them all for blasting and plating, silly mistake.

one looks like M4 and the other is M5, can anybody shed a light on where they go?

Untitled by eastham_david, on Flickr

and 3rdly

Does the top ring (I think its the top ring) sit with the larger dia on the bottom? ie as in the Photo

Untitled by eastham_david, on Flickr


Thanks in advance

Dave
 
Not sure about your bolts and hole but the manufacturer's stamp on the piston rings (adjacent to the gap or end) always goes up.
 
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