The bike Honda never built - or, my MR250 Elsinore for the Vintage 1000

SONIC. said:

This is badass!
Your route should bring you within a few miles of my house so if you need a place to crash let me know.

Probably bad wording. if you need a place to "stay" let me know.

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Justin, much as I'd like to, the route I'm actually taking is a set event with designated stops and such. But if I breakdown, I'll be sure to give ya a ring.

canyoncarver said:

A little more JB Weld and it should be good for a 1000 mile race.

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Yeah, trust me, I thought of that too I did blast a bit of it out of the broken areas here so someone else has too.

Mr.E said:

I did TIG weld it but used a setup for ferrous metals with 75/25 gas mix. Not 50/50 as some guides say. I have a local laser welder here that gave me some tips and supplied the Magnesium rods for this. First round I used AZ292 rods, but since have had a little better success with AZ291. I'll post pics of that later. I didnt preheat the entire part, but did heavy sand blasting followed by degreaser flush, and then torched the area to weld, followed by wire scrubbing. And i wire brushed after every couple arcs. The material puddles and burns off very quickly so I had to move fast. It also was very dirty. but the grind back showed the inside of my work is solid and seamless with the case, so I'm happy there. Just have to keep plugging untill I get a good finish, then work the gasket surface back to flat.

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Very nice.

looking good mr e !! you figgger you can salvage those fuel taps ?

were you not using ac hi freak cont ? that is the setttings i have always used for mag never had too much issue just floating the shit to the top

xb33bsa said:

were you not using ac hi freak cont ? that is the setttings i have always used for mag never had too much issue just floating the shit to the top

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I was messing with the freq control a bit, but imbstillbtaking baby steps there. Hopefully get a little more time to mess with it tomorrow too. Yep I think I can make the taps work, I've got the o rings here and at at work too.

In


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Just found this. Super cool.

So I revisited the skid pan tonight.



Set it up, tacked, went in for the kill without dialing in the feed and voltage, and then flipped it over and hit the backside too.



The last pic is the new pan next to the old one. Its gonna get a few holes in it too, but nothing too crazy. Its about twice the weight of the old one, and im not completely against adding a little more to it if I install it and still feels nekkid.

One more thing for the night here... Transfer screws and punches. If anyone is looking for a quick and easy way to mark holes on blind surfaces, do this.



I turned these in the lather quick. they are just a slip fit in the threaded tank mount. You could thread sharpened set screws in there if youve got em, but this will do for this job. These are brass, btw.

Then drop them into the tank mount.



The tank is plastic, so I cannot stress enough that the next step does not require great force.

Just color the side of the blind surface (bracket for me) with a sharpie, and gently put it on the surface where it will mount, and LIGHTLY tap it with a hammer. The tap will scuff the surface where the transfer punches are.



Then remove the part, and theres your marks on the back. Ready to drill.

This concept works really well with steel set screws because they actually thread into the mount for better accuracy and will actually prick the metal in case the scuff wears off. You can even buy special sets of screws and punches just for this. I have some at work, but for home I do this just as much. I should add that if you go with the scuff method, its good to get a spring punch to re-mark the scuffs after you make them. because it sucks to have to re-mark stuff when a oily hand wipes out the sharpie scuff.

Ok, it is late and I am tired.

a whipper snapper machinist with old trick bag eh ?
on a serios not please do not bolt the tank down in the rear many reasons the main one is those cast in thread areas are the only and fisrt place old tankls like that crack and or fail more spectacularly lee
some supporting hard close cell foam so even when you whack your balls on the tank sooo hard you puke and for sure figgure it hit metal as well,the tank tunnel that is..
then form a hook slot out of that bracket and lash it down with rubber bands
the front of the seat should fit sanug against,add hrd foam if need bee,but make sure the metal seat pan can never rub
also prevent it from coming up
even the old mx bikes only hard mounted one end or none on a plastic tank
and especially on a long ass ride like that a split or leeky tank will ruin it
just make sure it can never rub frame and is supported well with hard foam pads in x y z axis
and that the bolts up front have nice thick rubber cushiony deals with inner sleeves to control/limit distortion/crush like oem would use
its gonna be an awesome ride and i would nate for it to end early
thats all

lots of things can be trail fixxed ,a plastic tank uh uh
if they are supplying a chase support convoy pack up the original tank in the chase truck
dont tell them just put it in the bottom of your tote with the rest of any spares or supplies
you wll want to carry on the bike,a section of chain a breaker ,master links,a 19 X 3.5 new tube ,can use front or back,cuple tire levers etc
make sure your rim locks are in good shape and tight 2 in the rear one in front

and good ear plugs always wear them,cuts way down on fatigue

Nice work, love that tank,


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xb33bsa said:

lots of things can be trail fixxed ,a plastic tank uh uh
if they are supplying a chase support convoy pack up the original tank in the chase truck
dont tell them just put it in the bottom of your tote with the rest of any spares or supplies
you wll want to carry on the bike,a section of chain a breaker ,master links,a 19 X 3.5 new tube ,can use front or back,cuple tire levers etc
make sure your rim locks are in good shape and tight 2 in the rear one in front

and good ear plugs always wear them,cuts way down on fatigue

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a rubber hold-down strap for the rear of that tank makes good sense.

Yeah XB I probably should have said the other night (was almost typing it asleep tho) I'm not exactly planning to keep the bolt in the frame, but figured it'd be easy for holding it securely for marking the other two spots. That bracket is getting some adhesive foam as soon as I remember where I put it. And the tongue where the bolt is will slide neatly into the seat retainer. So it will be secure, but not anchored per se. Plus I usually don't use the nut on most dirt bike mounts there either cause I'm always taking the tank off to fiddle with it. Maybe we'll keep the easy access.

And yep, I've got the nylon bits in the front and some rubber grommets too. I admit I do really suck at posting the fine details here, haha.

Been a little while. Don't worry, I've been busy. Rebuilt the fork and painted the trees too. Didn't stop to take pics tho. I mean, they are forks...

Also split the cases on the motor to explore a bit. Was a tad alarmed to find leaves mixed in with the mud in there.



But a lot of it cleaned out well. The crank is probably a goner tho. Lot of galling, one of the bearings got ugly and it heated up. So I'm on the lookout for a new crank now. Bearings and seals will start arriving soon. And I cut a stock headlight up too. Don't worry, it was in bad shape anyways. I'll post more on that when i've got something together soon. I started looking into FL250 Odyssey CDI ignition since those motors and the MR250 share some components, but it seems like it wont work. Wish I had somewhere to examine an FL250 ignition from to see, but oh well, so far my 6v points setup tests ok.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-MR-MR250-elsinore-vintage-ahrma-crankshaft-rod-crank-/252210995823?hash=item3ab8f2626f:g:jckAAOxyYANTZqmY&vxp=mtr

hay man post up a pic of your points still mounted would you i got a few various sets of oem honda points i have not id'd yet they came with other honda parts mebee the mr is one kind i have

Thanks Murray, I'm watching that crank, and one other thats nice and in that range too. When I get some overtime I'll jump on one of em. XB, I dont have the points mounted to the motor anymore, its all a pile on the bench. Points plate is still intact though. I can get you a pic of that this weekend. I just got a bunch of seals in yesterday, waiting on a couple more bearings to arrive, buy a crank, then its rebuild time.

unless i missed one there are 3

a rusty sat on the shelf for godknowshowlong for 14 dollar and has some pitting in the one journal

then the 58 dollar one that has scoring and spin marks in it

where is the other nice one ?

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