collapse

www.dimecitycycles.com


www.restocycle.com

www.CITYLIMITMOTO.com

www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com

www.bisonmotorsports.com

www.speedmotoco.com

www.cognitomoto.com

www.townmoto.com

www.sparckmoto.com

www.Moto-Madness.com

www.pistonsociety.com

www.steeltowngarage.com

GET DTT UPDATES ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER

Author Topic: XS750 to XS896 big bore  (Read 25498 times)

Offline datadavid

  • Posts: 1138
Re: XS750 to XS896 big bore
« Reply #150 on: Jan 17, 2017, 11:15:50 »
I may, if i dont get too drunk😁 never done it before so, will try to document it.

Offline Ryan Stecken

  • DTT SUPPORTER
  • *
  • DTT BOTM WINNER
  • *
  • Posts: 1772
Re: XS750 to XS896 big bore
« Reply #151 on: Jan 17, 2017, 11:54:08 »
I may, if i dont get too drunk😁

sounds like my weekend plans  :D

Offline XS750AU

  • Posts: 318
Re: XS750 to XS896 big bore
« Reply #152 on: Jan 29, 2017, 00:44:24 »
Little bit more work on the seat. Changed the top layer to the harder grey foam and then cut the wedge out of the pillion area to follow the upturn on the frame loop. Next it is off to work for skiving the foam to the final profile and making the trim cover.
“Engineering is the art of being approximately right rather than exactly wrong.”

Yamaha XS750-2D
Yamaha XS896
Husaberg FE550
Yamaha TT250
Yamaha IT200N

Offline Ryan Stecken

  • DTT SUPPORTER
  • *
  • DTT BOTM WINNER
  • *
  • Posts: 1772
Re: XS750 to XS896 big bore
« Reply #153 on: Jan 31, 2017, 04:59:52 »
Little bit more work on the seat. Changed the top layer to the harder grey foam and then cut the wedge out of the pillion area to follow the upturn on the frame loop. Next it is off to work for skiving the foam to the final profile and making the trim cover.

Nice work on the seat!May I ask which kind of foam/density did you use?

Cheers

Offline XS750AU

  • Posts: 318
Re: XS750 to XS896 big bore
« Reply #154 on: Jan 31, 2017, 17:25:56 »
Ryan
The foam is open cell polyurethane that has been slab cut to 20mm thick. Hardness, we would specify at nominal 250N, but different suppliers and markets may specify in other ways. The trimmers have done a great job gluing and getting the foam ready to trim. The foam is now cut back to be 4mm out from the base plate edge, so that there is no visible read through from the base plate.
“Engineering is the art of being approximately right rather than exactly wrong.”

Yamaha XS750-2D
Yamaha XS896
Husaberg FE550
Yamaha TT250
Yamaha IT200N

Offline XS750AU

  • Posts: 318
Re: XS750 to XS896 big bore
« Reply #155 on: Feb 25, 2017, 02:40:55 »
Had a bit of time today when I was getting the boat ready to go fishing tomorrow. The steering head bearings need replacing as they are rusted and pitted. The top one came out without trouble. The bottom one is being difficult. The issue is that I cannot get to the lip on the lower outer race to drive it out!!!! There are 2 groves, front and rear that are meant to expose the lip so you can drive it out, but even with the groves the lip is not exposed enough to get a drift onto it. Heat was no real help - did not get it hot enough to burn paint though.
Any one got any special tricks that I could try?
Thanks
Tim
“Engineering is the art of being approximately right rather than exactly wrong.”

Yamaha XS750-2D
Yamaha XS896
Husaberg FE550
Yamaha TT250
Yamaha IT200N

Offline der_nanno

  • Posts: 242
  • Faster!
    • Greasy Greg
Re: XS750 to XS896 big bore
« Reply #156 on: Feb 25, 2017, 05:05:28 »
Make two or three tack-welds. That will distort the bearing cup sufficiently so it'll fall out under its own weight.
Real freedom starts with the freedom of thought.

My Blog:
http://greasygreg.blogspot.co.at

My Turbo TR1.1 (XV1000) build here on DTT:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=72571

My XS Triple Sidecar build here on DTT:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=74211

Offline doc_rot

  • DTT BOTM WINNER
  • *
  • DTT SUPPORTER
  • *
  • Posts: 831
  • Oh the usual... I bowl, I drive around...
Re: XS750 to XS896 big bore
« Reply #157 on: Feb 25, 2017, 19:26:07 »
Make two or three tack-welds. That will distort the bearing cup sufficiently so it'll fall out under its own weight.

+1 this method works great.
---------------------------------
'78 KZ1000  Project

'80 KZ750 Twin Project

Offline jpmobius

  • DTT BOTM WINNER
  • *
  • Posts: 1082
  • where does this go?
Re: XS750 to XS896 big bore
« Reply #158 on: Feb 25, 2017, 21:07:34 »
+1 on the welding distortion plan.  Alternatively, you can take a Dremel or die grinder and a small cut off wheel and enlarge the two recesses originally intended to make a spot to use a drift to remove the original much wider race.  Then you can just tap the race out.  Depends on the gear you have on hand as both ways work well.  However, in the long haul, having the enlarged recesses will prevent frustration on the next bearing replacement.
Mobius


On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66498.0

Offline XS750AU

  • Posts: 318
Re: XS750 to XS896 big bore
« Reply #159 on: Feb 25, 2017, 22:02:45 »
Thanks Gents
2 large tack welds and then a bit of a tap (did not wait for it to cool down - patience is not one of my virtues) and out it came. The larger welds gave me a spot to get the drift onto and a very small tap and bing it was on the floor.
Thanks
Tim
PS. Fishing was not too good = one flathead.
“Engineering is the art of being approximately right rather than exactly wrong.”

Yamaha XS750-2D
Yamaha XS896
Husaberg FE550
Yamaha TT250
Yamaha IT200N