Suzuki 2 stroke role call

Since this pic I put on fibre glass fenders, fork brace, different gauges and a few other bobbles. I'm currently waiting for a rebore with Teazer's porting.
 

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You've mostly seen my bikes before.......my 1975 T500M 'Alpina', owned since July 1977.
1975 T500M cafe, owned since 1978. (shortly getting a total refurb).
1973 Gt750M, owned about 5 years.
All of these bikes were customised by me, and as you know, many of the custom parts are made by my pal Timbo and me.
 

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The last GT750 restoration I did

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the Phat Trakka

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Dunstall in progress

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the shop earlier this year and all 4 are GT750s
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teazer said:
The last GT750 restoration I did

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the Phat Trakka

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Dunstall in progress

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the shop earlier this year and all 4 are GT750s
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I always wondered what the bike in your avatar was
 
Thanks guys.

The avatar bike, so to speak, is a GT750 with modified frame, R1 subframe GSXR600 swingarm and wheel, R7 seat, R1 fairing and YZF600R tank. I was converting it to reed valves and the guy that welded in the new side tubes welded them an inch out of place - right where the carbs were going to be, so it ground to a halt while I built a few other bikes. The seat is now an RS250 Aprillia race bike reject that will take some modifications to work with that subframe. I prefer the RS round look, but the R7 seat is a simple drop on fit.

The middle one came to me as a sort of Cafe Racer that was built by a guy I know who loves bikes but is not a mechanic or engineer and had some serious issues. That one now has a GS1100 tank, all new chrome moly sub frame, TL1000 swingarm and rear wheel. Front end is GSXR tubes and lower triple clamp and CBR954 top gull wing clamp. I'll rebuild the motor with a lift plate and mild porting aqnd probably a set of 32mm flatslides for good clean low end and mid range rather than all top end. But I may end up with OEM 32mm round slides or BS40 CV carbs with velocity stacks. It will probably end up with a Tracy GS1100 seat on it just because I have one that a PO cut the tank off and it needs a good home. The 1100E tank is currently being slimmed at the rear and panel beaten to a sleeker shape. My panel beating skills need work though, so it's slow going.

Of course I keep adding projects and should start to finish off some of the older ones to clear some space ( and improve cash flow...)
 
Teazer, how much/little work is done on the motor,porting,(34's?),weight? You look pretty beefy, and I see you have an airshifter. What does it typically run in good air?
 

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jimmer said:
Teazer, how much/little work is done on the motor,porting,(34's?),weight? You look pretty beefy, and I see you have an airshifter. What does it typically run in good air?

Beefy !!!!!! I thought I was looking svelte. It's just that my leathers keep shrinking... Combined weight of bike and rider is right around 650. The bike is around 100 pounds less than stock IIRC and I weight around 200 in leathers boots helmet etc - maybe just a tough more. Side covers are C/F, wheel rims are aluminum off a TZ350, front disks are CBR600, calipers are SV650. Axles are gun drilled and lots of aluminum fasteners. No Ti on this one though. Electric foot and gears removed and lightened gear train to water pump. Barrels ahve also been lightened externally. Pipes are street JEMCo and sign off way too soon so I have to over rev to get anywhere.

Carbs are stock BS40 as required by the "Stock" category it runs in. I have run it with UNI filters, stacks and now with some custom inlet rings I designed and they are strongest at the deep end. porting is incredibly mild. I built it as a mild mannered street bike with slightly raised exhaust ports and cleaned up inlets on an MAB block IIRC. Compression is raised a touch to around 165psi cold cranking. Ignition is 40 year old OEM coils fired by a home brewed DYNA ignition with fine wire plugs.

Air shift is a CO2 system using a 4oz paintball tank through a regulator. I have finally been able to find pin valves, low and high pressure gauges and decent small regulators to drop the 1800 psi tank pressure to around 120psi for the solenoid and air cylinder. Kill box cuts ignition for around 60 milliseconds to account for the stock heavy OEM shift design with too many dogs. I shift at WOT using the horn button which has a hidden mini switch to change from street (horn) to track (shifter) operation. Current motor has a low forst gear from a JKL motor - ideal for teh street but drops in a hole at the 1-2 shift.

For my next motor, I'll be using a GS1100 trans with higher than GT750 first gear and all undercut and shimmed.

Times are really slow because I have horrible 60 times. PB is 12.8 at 111 at Martin (131) last year. I need more practice. Last two years had no TnT time and only one event each year. Not what you would describe as steady consistent practice.

But it was built for the street as a mild torquey motor that doesn't much care what gear it's in. No dyno testing after year one when different pipes and fuels were tried. Now we cannot use any fuel with Ethanol (even street gas) so no more U4.4 which has the best pick up of any fuel I have tried. back to good old C11 or C12. Runs as well on street 93 as those.
 
Beefy in a good sense! Nice write up on a very cool bike. With your setup that has to be a fantastic torque monster and a really nice ride on the street. I love the fact you did your own innovative tricks with it. I remember the big 'ole 1-2 shift on those!(been a while though) Keep up the nice progress, look forward to hearing more about your adventures. 8) 8) 8)
 
Thanks Jimmer.
I have been modifying bikes since my first two stroke single back in the late sixties. That one I ported and fitted an expansion chamber, rear sets cafe seat etc. It's been like that ever since. My first big bike was a T100 Triumph that was collected as parts and I fitted a 650 light crank, slipper pistons, race cams, ported the head etc. I like to explore what can be done. Not everything works of course, and I also learn from what other people do, but there's not much point in just copying someone else's ideas unless they are Pops Yoshimura of course.

I spend way too much time looking at other bikes and at teh details and sometimes an idea can be adapted to what I'm working on. It's like looking at a cook book and seeing something that inspires me and then changing basically everything about it. Ideas are there to be changed and adapted and developed.

On teh RD350 drag bike, the rear frame is being replaced with chrome moly tube. I didn't like the RD350 tank shell so I bought a beat up 400 tank and cut the bottom out and knocked it straight. Then I narrowed it by about 50mm at the back by cutting a wedge out. If I can get a smaller oxy nozzle or 1mm tungsten for the TIG, I'll weld that back together and use it as a plug to make a carbon fiber shell and if I get lucky I'll build in narrowed RD400 side covers as a one piece so it looks sort of stock but isn't.

It may work and it might not, but I figure it's worth a chance.

That 2 into 1 exhaust on yours could be modified a little I think to work better. On sleds a 2 into 1 is common and those things rev quite hard. Single pipes are better but I was up at AAEN in Racine last year (or a year or two earlier) chatting to Olav Aaen and he builds some killer large bore race 2 into 1 pipes. He uses short tapered headers and huge volume chambers. I think the short header is to minimize the stuffing wave in the other cylinder. Running a 360 degree crank would mean that isn't an issue but vibration might be. I'd love to see the dyno curve from your pipe on your bike to see where it peaks. I suspect that it's too long and is out of step with the ports.
 
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