Probably a really dumb question

I have yet to measure my valve clearances since I bought the bike, figured it was time. I have just over 15,000 miles on my 1977 KZ900 and she has been running pretty damn good for me since i got her at 12,000 miles. I took the valve cover and started doing my measurements.

Intake | Exhaust
1. .002 | .004
2. .003 | <.0015
3. .002 | .003
4. .025 | .003

(all measurements in inches...)

From the factory do all intake and exhaust sides use different size shims?
Do I have to take out each shim to see what size it is before I can buy the appropriate new shim size?

I was trying to wait to buy the shim tool and the shims at the same time, but if that isn't possible than that's ok too.

Forgot to add...Looking at the cam shaft plug, is it supposed to blue along the top of it, or does it look like somebody tried to seal that up?

Should I go ahead and replace the cam shaft plugs?

Bama704 said:

From the factory do all intake and exhaust sides use different size shims?

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Yes. The tolerances on the head castings plus machining of valve seats, etc will cause slight variances in the overall shim valve stem height.

Bama704 said:

Do I have to take out each shim to see what size it is before I can buy the appropriate new shim size?

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The numbers are usually face down when the shims are installed. They have a better chance of survival away from the cam lobe. You can sometimes swap shims around to lessen the amount of shims you need to purchase.

Bama704 said:

Looking at the cam shaft plug, is it supposed to blue along the top of it, or does it look like somebody tried to seal that up?

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I don't believe Kawasaki ever had blue sealer so someone could have had the valve cover off before. I use Yamabond 4 (I think) and apply a thin coat on top of the cam plugs overlapping the head by 1/8" or so.

Bama704 said:

Should I go ahead and replace the cam shaft plugs?

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If they're not leaking and you haven't disturbed them, I'd leave well enough alone. But that's just my opinion.

Later, Doug

What Doug said looks correct

looks like you have one tight one i have thinned them on a surface grinder and some folks just rub off the needed amount on a good flat oilstone
besides the shim tool a 0-1'' micrometer is almost a must cause sometimes the markings are disapeared
but its only one shim many dealers will swap with you

Just buy the shim, they're not expensive and easy to get hold of, but you do need to measure the one you take out.

Thanks guys, I ordered the tool so I can take the shims out and it should come in the next few days so I can start to do the math. If it is really just one shim (#2 exhaust) that needs swapped out, maybe I can stop in to the local kawasaki dealership and see if they will swap me out one. Will keep ya'll updated on the progress.

I ended up getting the stupid motion pro tool and it was awful and I could only get one shim out. So I used the zip tie method which worked great. Here are my measurements

Clearance :
Intake / Exhaust
1 - .002 (.05mm) / .004 (.1mm)
2 - .003 (.762mm) / <.0015 (.0381mm)
3 - .002 (.05mm) / .003 (.0762mm)
4 - .0025 (.0635mm) / .003 .0762mm)

Shim Size :

Intake / Exhaust
1 - 250 / 280
2 - 250 / 285
3 - 280 / 275
4 - 275 / 270

Which ones would you change out? Should I try and get the clearances set to .1mm on the intake and .15mm on the exhaust side?

According to the clearance specs on your chart, you only need to change #2 EX from 285 to 280.

hillsy said:

According to the clearance specs on your chart, you only need to change #2 EX from 285 to 280.

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yep that is the way i saw it right at the start the others are fine
having them at the low end is best
a magnet works to pick out the shims and an oring pick and also a quick shot of air from your compressed air supply will spit them out
give a shot of air right at the notch it gets underneath,see

xb33bsa said:

a magnet works to pick out the shims and an oring pick and also a quick shot of air from your compressed air supply will spit them out
give a shot of air right at the notch it gets underneath

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Best with the air or a pick as you don't want to risk magnetising shims and attracting metal filings so the cam lobes can grind themselves to a pulp (OK - probably using a magnet for 2 seconds wont magnetise them but it's pretty easy to err on the side of caution).