Wiring

J-Rod10

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Anyone have a hookup on copper wire? I'm in need of round about 600' of #2 AWG THHN.
 
get two Scotsmen fighting over a penny, that should see you right for what you need
 
Yeah, unfortunately, the new milling center runs a 100 amp breaker. It is right about 150' away from my panel in the front of the shop.
 
Sonreir™ said:
You should be able to get away with #6 if you're only pulling 100A.
Hmm. I called the local electrical supply. They told me that distance away from the juice, at 100 amps, that I would need #2 for the three hot, and a #6 ground.

If I can get away with #6, I'd happily do so.
 
This is from the #6. Shows a max load of 75 amps.

Allowable Ampacity: 55 Amps at 60ºC / 65 Amps at 75ºC / 75 Amps at 90ºC

Is that right?
 
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

That's the site I generally refer to. Chassis wiring is what you're looking at, unless you're bundling the wires inside a wrap along with others.

You'll get less voltage drop with a larger gauge (which means more power at the end of the line), so there's that consideration as well. Might be a good idea to refer to the machine and see if it has a lower allowable spec or anything like that.
 
If you're 480 volts that's overkill. How often are you running FLA. 220 volts will require a heavier wire than 480 or 440. FLA is when you have all axis at max rpm, and maximum load. Doesn't occur but once in a pink moon.
 
I have 240V 3 phase at my shop.

I'm not bundling with anything else. They'll get their own bit of conduit.
 
150' is a distance where you have to account for voltage drop, so you have to go up in gauge.
 
irk miller said:
150' is a distance where you have to account for voltage drop, so you have to go up in gauge.
In hindsight, I should have moved two of my knee mills and stuck this one 5' from the breaker box.
 
Most machines are built to run 208. In Utah, buck transformers are common as UP&L runs high on voltage. Look at your transformer, measure your voltage and choose the tap closest to your measured voltage. Many shops run undersize wire as Full Load Amps is seldom reached. 6 gauge will run 68 amps just fine, which is a very heavy cut. Do your servo motors have permanent magnets or are they the old three phase wound motors. Fanuc, Siemens, Yaskawa motors are modern in design. You most likely are talking about a Haas as these are affordable and use modern motors. Okuma mills have a good but complex tool changer, requiring an amplifier, encoder feed back, and motor on track to move the carriage. Haas will just have a pneumatic system with a homing circuit, tool forward and back sensors. About 90% fewer parts and dirt cheap to repair.

Sounds like your running CAT 50 tapers, is that right?
 
6 gauge will get you about 3% voltage drop at 150 ft. Sounds like that's no big deal at all.
 
Scooter trash said:
Most machines are built to run 208. In Utah, buck transformers are common as UP&L runs high on voltage. Look at your transformer, measure your voltage and choose the tap closest to your measured voltage. Many shops run undersize wire as Full Load Amps is seldom reached. 6 gauge will run 68 amps just fine, which is a very heavy cut. Do your servo motors have permanent magnets or are they the old three phase wound motors. Fanuc, Siemens, Yaskawa motors are modern in design. You most likely are talking about a Haas as these are affordable and use modern motors. Okuma mills have a good but complex tool changer, requiring an amplifier, encoder feed back, and motor on track to move the carriage. Haas will just have a pneumatic system with a homing circuit, tool forward and back sensors. About 90% fewer parts and dirt cheap to repair.

Sounds like your running CAT 50 tapers, is that right?
She's a Cat 40. Has Fanuc servos. 30HP. I can run her up to 500ipm. I'd like to do that often in aluminum.

You couldn't pay me to buy a Haas. Welded Chinese castings. They're not rigid, and people are having a plethora of problems with their NexGen control.
 
J-Rod10 said:
She's a Cat 40. Has Fanuc servos. 30HP. I can run her up to 500ipm. I'd like to do that often in aluminum.

You couldn't pay me to buy a Haas. Welded Chinese castings. They're not rigid, and people are having a plethora of problems with their NexGen control.

it does amaze me how haas has been able to advertise their way to cornering the market. I have never been a fan of their equipment either with hardware or software and user interface. That said, dad bought a toolroom mill from them a few years ago (er 15 maybe) and has been overall happy with it.
 
Beat on them for five years, and replace. That seems to be the trend with most Haas shops.

A VF2 can be had for $70K. A comparable Mori, Okuma, Mazak runs you over double.

Imo, the best machine for the money right now, are the new Doosans. 15K spindle, Fanuc control, HSM, the works, for right around $100K for a 40-20 machine.
 
Doosan has new roller linear guideways, very fast and rigid. They have eliminated the hydraulic system, also are Fanuc. The only issue I have with Fanuc is the limited memory. Doosan mills are very reliable. Moris are very well built, but once the model is discontinued, the part prices soar through the roof. Fanuc also offers a one year warranty for around $1200.00, parts and labor. If you have a Fanuc control over 10 years old... get the warranty. Other controls don't have that.

With Haas, the main complaint is the tool sticking in the spindle. Coolant circulates around the spindle to help cool it, but it will get nasty and gummed up after years.
 
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