CL360 Cam chain timing

Hey all,

I'm back, finally getting to install my "new" camshaft after my old one snapped however long ago that was. Been too busy to tackle this up until now.

Anyway I got the new shaft in and as I'm trying to set the timing I can only seem to get the two level indicators on the cam chain sprocket, the dowel pin on the camshaft and the LT mark within about 5 degrees of rotation of each other. The LT is just a little advanced beyond the hash when the cam/sprocket are correct. Do I just need to adjust the sprocket/camshaft a tooth over? There seems to be a little slack in the chain which I can decrease a little by pushing down on the rear cam chain tensioner.

Thanks!

Sounds like you may be right. Try moving it a tooth.
I dont recall paying any attention to the dowel pin on the cam, during this.

Clymer manual told me to point it up! Don't know what difference it makes except that with that indicator up the two left camshaft lobes are at the 10 and 2 o'clock positions.

Ok I adjusted it and it seems like it's as close as it's going to get. The alternator rotor has a weird sort of lopsided turn to it where it goes tense then slack when I'm turning it over. Any idea what that would be?

I've been struggling to get the valve cover back on now that I've put a new camshaft in. If I turn the rotor over I can get the cover to fit but if I continue rotating it around it pushes up on the various corners of the cover so it won't fit square. It pushes the corners up nearly a 1/4". Is it just a matter of adjusting tappets? That seems excessive. Am I being an idiot here or what is going on?

edit: I loosened the tappets and then turned the rotor over until the valve cover would sit flush. I was able to put the bolts back in and test turning it over again. It sounds like it's ok. I hear a faint clicking like it might be rubbing but it's hard to say. I guess the cover just needed to be secured?

You should always back off tappet adjusters when rebuilding top end on any motor (unless it's a side valve ;D ) I've always backed them off so 'underneath' is 'flat', trying to save time cutting corners can be real bad
The adjuster screws can catch on tip of valve and bend the stem (you never do this twice, see above )
If your setting left TDC you can have cam either lobes up or lobes down, (pin at 6 or 12) doesn't matter as long as front of chain is tight (so all the 'slack' is at the rear where tensioner sits) turn crank 360 degrees and cam will be in the opposite place.
Even with tappets backed off the 'corners' will still lift slightly but easy enough to bolt down