KLR You Experienced? I am now...

Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

irk miller said:
Just use Heli-coil or Time-Sert and keep the thread stock.

That is absolutely an option as well
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

The Jimbonaut said:
You're right, that makes more sense.

I've done this a few times. The helicoil is better in that it keeps the oem bolt, but something like this your not likely to be changing that bolt out ever again so do the cheaper easier solution. I have one fork oil drain bolt I have done this on for my GL so I always do one fork at a time to drain oil so I don't mix them up by accident.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

The Jimbonaut said:
Pretty sure you just nailed it. There was some kind of switch set-up above the kick stand which I removed, thinking doing so would then bypass the kick stand safety switch. Not thinking that removing it entirely would break a circuit. I'll reinstall the switch and plug the thing back in, see what gives. Thanks for the insight as always 8)

Guaranteed this is the issue. The clutch switch will allow you to start clutch out in neutral. clutch in, in gear. i.e. stalled while riding but the kickstand switch overrides it if you put it in gear it kills the motor. You can easily by pass it. If I get a few minutes I'll look and tell you what wires you need to connect to do it. I did something similar on my KLF185 to bypass the neutral switch as it was bad and hard to get at to replace.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Maritime said:
Guaranteed this is the issue. The clutch switch will allow you to start clutch out in neutral. clutch in, in gear. i.e. stalled while riding but the kickstand switch overrides it if you put it in gear it kills the motor. You can easily by pass it. If I get a few minutes I'll look and tell you what wires you need to connect to do it. I did something similar on my KLF185 to bypass the neutral switch as it was bad and hard to get at to replace.

You should move house mate. Maybe to, I dunno, Montreal? Plenty to do here, and always a big question mark hovering over my garage if you ever get bored. See? I got it all figured out.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

LOL, I know, all my buddies who wrench are all 4-500 KM away from me, most 1000+. Luc whom you met does a little but not like the folks on here.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Dude it was the kick stand switch. Plugged it back into the harness and it's off to the races. First blat down the alley and the grin is good
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Nice, I thought maybe you had cut it out and needed to bypass. much easier just to put it back LOL.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

With the kick stand switched re-connected the bike starts, and gets into gear no problem. No quite no problem but I think that's because of a dirty connection somewhere. I'll need to take the starter switch apart (or maybe some other switch) and clean it up.

Never mind that, a mate came over yesterday and we took the bikes out for a 35km jaunt around town. First ride, both of the year and for the reborn KLR. Felt great to be back in the saddle, and the bike ran really well. Couple of hiccups (both the taillight and headlight blew out, and the bike stalled a few times) but hopefully nothing I can't sort out. The exhaust sounds amazing have to say - not too obnoxious at all but a million times better than stock. Stock can develop the infamous KLR "tweet" which - although somewhat remediable with a flathead screwdriver and a couple of whacks with a mallet - is a shit sound for any vehicle, let alone a big thumper. This Lexx takes care of all that.

Need to find out what caused the stalls (hoping it was a gas situation - there's not much in the tank), and the short in the lighting, but all in all couldn't be happier.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Nice Jimbo, Not too far from my first ride here. Salt is almost gone, one more good rain, although they are calling for freezing rain tomorrow which may make them salt again. Did the fuses blow or the bulbs? Bulbs popping can mean you have a RR issue with too much juice going to them, fuses is usually a short to ground someplace. You can test the RR with a meter to see, shouldn't allow any more than 15ish volts out if working. Also can look for a short in the wires with it, set for continuity and put the prongs at each end of the wire between plugs/connectors then wiggle the wire around and see if you lose continuity. if you do fix that wire.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Congrats on the first ride, that's always a great feeling.
Like Mike said, I'd look at the regulator if you're blowing bulbs. Too many volts and POP.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

I remember the same thing happening with my old V Star but don't remember exactly how to check the RR. I've got a multimeter - what setting should I put it to and where exactly do I check?

Funny, a mate and I were just talking the other day about rectifiers and regulators blowing. Well, not funny but man - ironic timing
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Set it to volts DC, find the + hot lead that comes out usually headed to battery, attach the + lead, ground the - and rev the engine and watch the meter, it should top out at 15-15.5 volts dc, if it climbs past it's bad.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

I know all the lights were working fine before the rebuild - think it may have something to do with fuses/connectors? Who knows, right...

I'll definitely check the RR, and like my mate says - do all the easy stuff first.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Well it's official sportsfans...El Verdito is running but running pretty rough. I'm not surprised given all the mods I made (carb rejetting, engine over-bore, airbox and exhaust), but this is new ground for me. I'll pull the spark plug and will report back on the state of that, but the carb I'm thinking is going to need some well considered tinkering. I've heard you guys talking about tuning carbs but I'm not sure where to start. There is also an exhaust leak between the mid pipe and header.

Weather has gone totally tits up so can't see much riding doing in the immediate future. So rather than staring blankly at the bike I made this over the weekend -

mPOEUMr.jpg


- one on the left is finished and the other needs cleaning up. Somewhat challenging - did them freehand and cut out of stainless with a dremel and a lot of filing. I like doing this kind of thing, which is good because they take ages.

Here's where they'll go -

JfITIam.jpg
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Very cool.

First, sort out the exhaust leak.


Basically, with tuning you want to make marks on your handle bars for each 1/4 throttle with tape and marker. Figure out where it's acting up and determine if you're dealing with lean or rich. Then adjust accordingly. I'm way oversimplifying, but essentially different parts of your carb control different parts of throttle. RPMs have little to do, except vacuum on the idle circuit when you go too high on the idle adjust. I try to get a baseline on idle adjust and air mix, then work from there with jets.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Oversimplifying is fine by me Irk! Thanks man, this helps me get my head around what needs to be done and the processes involved. I'll start with the exhaust, and pull the spark plug - it was in good shape before my trial rides so I'm thinking it should give me some indication of the lean/rich situation. I've put 80 kms on the bike since the rebuild.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Pulling the plug after a ride will give you a little info but not much, it will indicate overall rich/lean but not where in the carb/throttle settings is it off. Start with a clean plug, fire the bike up and let it idle until warm and pull the plug and look at it, if not right, adjust the pilot settings, if good, put it back in and then go do plug chops. Mark the bar in 1/4's for throttle position so 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, 3/4 turn full. Get on a quiet street you can hold a throttle position for a steady min or 2. Bring your plug wrench and a couple of plugs. Ride at 1/4 throttle first steady for a KM or 2, pull clutch, hit the kill and pull over, pull out the plug and look, if all golden brown and good, pilot circuit is good. Next do the same at 1/2 throttle, if good, do 3/4, if good do WOT. My guess is you'll foul or lean out before WOT, there is a great chart I'll see if I can find that correlates throttle position and plug condition to know what to change, i.e. screw mixtures, jet sizes, needle position etc.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

This site is pretty good:
http://www.dansmc.com/carbs2.htm
http://www.dansmc.com/sparkplugs1.htm
http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Thanks gents, that's really helpful. I'll do that - taking the bike to the parking lot at Canadian Tire will spare the neighbours the joys of me thrashing the engine in my garage. I'll check out those websites Mike and arm myself with as much info as I can get hold of. Daunted? Not I. I've got shiny KLR badges now. I got this.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Jet rich and work your way down. Carry a spare plug wrench in case you foul the plug and it stalls. Have you found someone to give you ballpark jetting to start with?

Your badges look great, like the rest of your bike.

Brian
 
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