HollywoodMX's xv920/TR1 Cafe super-dupe!

Just discovered a significant problem. I think the bike is going to be too low.

Stock forks are 33". Stock front wheel is 26". Stock you can get away with dropping the forks 1.5".

Gsxr forks are 29.5". A front r1 wheel (used as a template) with a brand new tire is 23.5". So even with dropping the forks measurement stock I'm still in a 2" deficit on forks and 1.5" on the front wheel.

Man I really didn't want to make custom trips for this. I'm definitely going to have to move the rear shock mount down. I cant afford the inch loss on the rear on top of this. So I will move the rear one inch down which will counter the one inch loss of the 14.5" shock and add another inch ride hight. Hopefully this will be enough otherwise Gullwing upper trip will be needed.
 
I think that you'll be surprised where you end up after setting the GSXR forks up with the stock trees. I didn't think that the geometry would work out on MJPriceisright's setup but it's actually not atrocious. I don't know how much different the TR1 rear geometry is, though.

One of the reasons I went with the EX500 front end (aside from the fact that Brad made me take it) was that the forks are enough longer that the geometry ends up pretty close to a modern sportbike.
 
Re: Re: HollywoodMX's xv920/TR1 Cafe super-dupe!

Rich Ard said:
I think that you'll be surprised where you end up after setting the GSXR forks up with the stock trees. I didn't think that the geometry would work out on MJPriceisright's setup but it's actually not atrocious. I don't know how much different the TR1 rear geometry is, though.

One of the reasons I went with the EX500 front end (aside from the fact that Brad made me take it) was that the forks are enough longer that the geometry ends up pretty close to a modern sportbike.

Ya the Gsx-r forks are pretty long for newer forks but like you said not as long as some older modern forks.

I'm not sure what mean Gsx-r forks in the stock trees. That's impossible. I think you mean the Gsx-r forks and trees in the tr1 steering neck. In that case perhaps you missed a page because that is done and that's how I'm measuring.

Where I missed the mark was that tr1 front wheel hight is notably taller than the kz front. So the change from tr1 to 17" is more drastic than expected.

BUT

Like I always do, I figure things out. So I have another option than custom upper trip. Fork extenders a bit spendy, but that will be enough gain.
 
CafeRacersUnited said:
Very pretty! Love the tank - seat line. Its perfect! 8)

Haha, I was explaining the importance of lining up the tank line with the seat line over beers with the GF last night. I showed her many examples of it being off and how it disrupts the lines of a bike build.


New presents! The remainder of the rk/excel order after I fought dumb UPS over "brokerage fees". Hollywood - 1, UPS - 0

I also ordered a custom ignition.
 

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Tomorrow is going to be a good day for progress. :)
 

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Re: Re: HollywoodMX's xv920/TR1 Cafe super-dupe!

wynand2000 said:
Wonder what those beautifully produced items will become!

Here is a sample hint. Decided to use square tube to match the subframe.
 

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Here is another sample. I decided to make this build portion a video so I haven't posted a bunch of pictures for it. I'm at a little bit of a roadblock because I need a couple more pieces to finish it. Once I get those pieces I'll finish it and finish the video.
 

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Excellent, those cast aluminium "triangles" looked remarkably heavy, both in pounds and in presence. Any idea how much weight you will sve with the new fabricated parts?
 
Sigh....I want a lathe :(

Looking good. I agree the new subframe is tits. To touch on rundown's question, any body find an easy way to weigh their bike? I'm curious to find out how much weight I'll have saved on my project.
 
Re: Re: HollywoodMX's xv920/TR1 Cafe super-dupe!

rundown said:
Excellent, those cast aluminium "triangles" looked remarkably heavy, both in pounds and in presence. Any idea how much weight you will sve with the new fabricated parts?

One side will be around the same and one side will slightly lighter. If I would have used hollow bungs I would have save a little weight but I wanted it to be sturdy.

Once the rear set bushings are welded in. I plan on adding gussets so it might end up as the same or slightly more.

I need newer bungs for the rear sets. Originally I was using pass through bungs but I noticed on the chain side my locking bolts might hit the chain so getting new threaded ones so nothing protrudes.


Zookrocker said:
Sigh....I want a lathe :(

Looking good. I agree the new subframe is tits. To touch on rundown's question, any body find an easy way to weigh their bike? I'm curious to find out how much weight I'll have saved on my project.

There is a self service auto scale just out side of my city.

What I plan on doing is weighing all the stuff I removed in a box. Weight the old and new wheels with tires. Weigh the new parts I made and do a little plus and minus. Man if I can break into the 300 's that would be super pimp.

I'm expecting to shed 80lbs at minimum. Not to mention the rotational weight I have saved. Excel says to expect a 3hp gain with improved acceleration and breaking. I also switched from 630 chain to 520, aluminum sprocket and ultra lightweight rear disc. I'm waiting for the light weight Marchesini valve stems to get the tires on the wheels. They are in transit.
 
I had thought of doing it the same way, but i'm too far along now...wish i'd have weighed the bike somehow before I tore into it. I'm hoping to loose at least 50 lbs.
 
Zook if you google the year and model there's usually a few sites that might pull up with the factory claimed dry and wet weights, it'd at least get you in the ball park.
 
I'm aiming for the 100lbs saving. The UK chain drive spec. TR1 weighs 220kgs [ 485lbs ]. Surprisingly the shaft drive model is only 5kgs heavier.

Yes, those OEM footrest brackets are humungous ..................... however, I have a theory about that.

I believe they are part of the bracing around the swingarm. The footrests [ well OTT just to hold footpegs ] are tied in via an equally robust seat support back to the top of the frame and then across down to the other rest - on the way, tying in the engine cases. One reason I've always been a bit nervous about removing the section of main frame around the rear exhaust. ;)

I originally cut down the OEM alloy brackets, but they just looked naff. Then I ended up with a similar tubular steel set up. Here shown in it's Mk1 version. There was a shaped central gusset on the Mk2, and it was also raised to give more cornering clearance. These were more for initial set up than anything, awaiting the final tank shape and seat position.

Two items which are surprisingly weighty are the seat assembly and rear wheel - compared to alloy rim steel spoked. OEM swirly - 21kgms vs XS650 alloy rimmed steel spoked - 11kgms. Not such a huge saving on the front.

 
Hey Iike the look of yours. I like the plate gusset you have on it too.

Many of those tr1 guys delete that muddle brace so I'm not worried. Plus I do have a plan to brace it uniquely. But to start that I need the frame off so I can box up the cut upper part of the frame. That comes after a few more missions. I need to finish the rearsets which should be tomorrow if my buddy finishes my parts. Install the new rear shock. Install the new wheels.

I learned from my last build to fab and assemble everything first then paint after. I will be painting everything I fabbed, the frame, gas tank, etc.
 
HollywoodMX said:
Hey Iike the look of yours. I like the plate gusset you have on it too.

Many of those tr1 guys delete that muddle brace so I'm not worried. Plus I do have a plan to brace it uniquely. But to start that I need the frame off so I can box up the cut upper part of the frame. That comes after a few more missions. I need to finish the rearsets which should be tomorrow if my buddy finishes my parts. Install the new rear shock. Install the new wheels.

I learned from my last build to fab and assemble everything first then paint after. I will be painting everything I fabbed, the frame, gas tank, etc.

Yes, the gusset on the latest [ Mk 4 ? ] is an arty farty shape, still picking up on that central bolt.

The removal of the middle part of the down frame is one of those Marmite jobbies - Sepp Koch obviously has NO problems - and that's in a racing environment. Others of this parish have gone to great lengths to strengthen that section behind the engine cases.

I think my personal paranoia comes from 50 years of designing chassis' and cars, where overkill was the mantra [ rather than client kill !! ]. NEVER had to claim on my product liability insurance in over 45 years.

Hear you on the full assembly prior to pull down and paint. In the past [ long time ago ] I HAVE been guilty of doing just that, but never getting round to pulling apart for paint ! Projects usually got sold out from under me.
 
Powderfinger said:
Subframe looks good, what do you need to finish it?

Some gussets and paint! :)

I'll add the gussets when in the disassemble phase.

I got the finished threaded bungs so I am good to go for tomorrow.
 
Sorry I have gone quiet. Ended up doing more family stuff and building a new high end pc stole a lot of my holiday time. Back focusing on the bike on the weekend. Finish the rear set mounts and start on the fender or head light mounts.
 
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