A CB360 Build

Coming together. I picked up my tank today. Should have that installed w lines on mid week!
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Looks can be deceiving! Hit a snag that may or may not be huge. Electrical woes.

So key switch registers 12.9 to red when off and 12.9 to black when on, as expected.
Fuses show 12.9 on both sides to main and 12.9 to both sides on head and tail when handlebar control is turned to "on."

Horn wires register 12.9 when button is depressed but horn doesn't work. I've concluded the horn is shot.

Here's my concern... the headlight isn't turning on at all.
I've got 12.9 to low and hi beam wires (blue and white) as expected when grounding through the engine.

What is the deal with the green wire from the headlight? Whenever I test into one of the three green females paired with the low/high beam wire my multimeter shows just around 2.0 volts. This is confusing to me - doesn't the green return to ground to complete the circuit? Which of the three greens in the harness should I use? Or does it not matter? I recall the factory set up having those two giant nuts connected to greens...

The fact that I see power running to my low and high beam wires as expected and I've tried all three greens makes me wonder if the brand new H4 harness is bad...

And I must share - at this point I have no tail light and no signals on, no indicator panel or gauges. Just trying to get things fired up/tested.

Huge thanks in advance!
 
Stock harness green is ground, test continuity between the green in the headlight and the negative post on the battery should be very low reading. IF its anything more than 2-3 ohms you have issue with a connection some where. I forget exactly where the stock harness grounds to the frame but sure that spot and the spot where the battery negative connect to the frame are clean and free of PAINT.

Horns die, take it off and fill it full of WD-40 and let it sit a few days. It may come back to life it may not, they are really sucky anyway I get decent Blazer brand horns that fit in the same place and are twice as loud.

The nuts are what ground the headlight ears IIRC.
 
Thanks frogman. I believe the stock harness originally grounded through the coil mounts. Going to check and test my grounds first thing. Headed back to the shop to tinker with this some more. I'll post progress later today.
 
Ground for harness wasn't sufficient. Adjusted and tested continuity and the headlight came right on.

Bike fired up and runs. Video attached. Already hit PJ up about carb overflow. Right side overflow is dripping excessively.

Next steps: mufflers, mount starter solenoid, clean up remaining wiring, taillight and rear signals.

https://vimeo.com/133284006

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Could be the float got jammed, happens sometimes when things just jostled around in a direction they aren't supposed to. I'd drain the bowl and pop it off and take a look.
 
I've seen carb bodies severely distorted when people use hammer, the side is bowed in enough to touch float
Use screwdriver handle from underneath and tap between drain screw/base. It's thicker section plus 'shock travels upwards instead of sideways
 
Tapping the bowl didn't help. Drained and flushed with gas to remove any sediment or clogs. Sealed back up and overflow was the same.

Wondering if my carb overflow tube is cracked. Will investigate today and report back.

If that is not the case, I'm at a loss. I assume following PJ's tune-up the shut off trigger point isn't compromised.
 
Swung by the shop just now. I confirmed that the carb overflow tube is indeed cracked. Picking up a spare set of carbs from a buddy tonight to steal one of the bowls and I should be good to go on that front assuming his bowls are acceptable.
 
If you look closely you can see the thin fissure in the tube.
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Donor bowl all cleaned up:
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