Another crack at making a DOHC "cool"

Tested fitment of some items. I was mainly concerned with how the tank, battery and air filters would fit together.

 
Thanks - the bike came with emgo pods instead of an airbox so I figured these would be a better replacement. I'm hoping not to run into issues with them since they're dual filter elements but we'll see.
 
tried my hand at making a minimalist turn signal switch.

Piece of 3/4" DOM tube notched with a 3/4" drill bit


Filed to fit a 7/8" bar


DPDT micro toggle switch from Radioshack


Welded a thick fender washer (1" x 1/4") over the 3/4 DOM tube. Put a bolt and nut through the hole and chucked the tube in my drill press to act as a lathe so I could grind down the washer to the size of the DOM tube.


Switch had to be filed down a bit to fit in the tube.


I know I could have bought a POSH switch but the sit too close to the bars and require a 15mm hole to be drilled in the bars. This is tall enough that the switch sits inside and only requires an 8mm hole for the wires. Plus this will be easier to reach over my grips. Plus I made it out of scrap and a $5 switch.

Now the conundrum of how to wire it...
 
Re: Another crack at making a DOHC "cool"

Cool idea, very neat. What happens when the switch shits itself though? I assume the switch housing is to be welded to the bars?
 
Re: Another crack at making a DOHC "cool"

bobminkwell said:
Cool idea, very neat. What happens when the switch shits itself though? I assume the switch housing is to be welded to the bars?

The switch isn't complete yet - I'm going to be brazing a tab onto it for an M4 counter sunk screw that will hold the assembly to the handlebar. The bar will get tapped to accept the screw once I decide on position. I'll likely put the screw so it sits under the handle bar so that the width of the switch housing isn't increased. My goal is to have the gap between the grip and clutch be minimal.
 
Finished the turn signal switch mount, minus paint. The tab that the screw will go through will fit under my grip.





I'm not thrilled with the welds but the item is only 3/4" thick and my wire-feed welder isn't exactly a precision machine. Maybe I should have stuck to my original plan of brazing - next time...

Also I installed new OEM bushing in the shock mounts so here's a pic of how the mounts turned out.
 
More pics from today's progress

Switch mounted (not wired yet)



Electronics box



Rectifier/Regulator mounted outside of the electronics box for better air flow/cooling.




Tank and front fender ready for installation

 
Awesome. Smart move on that vented electronics box. Just curious where you got that cool looking tach plug?
 
bananas said:
Awesome. Smart move on that vented electronics box. Just curious where you got that cool looking tach plug?

Thanks! I went to buy the metal to make the vented insert and it was about $35 for a 2'x2' section. I decided to ditch the idea since I only needed about 6" x6" of the stuff and figured I could find it cheaper elsewhere. While on my way out of the metal supply place I checked their scrap area and found the piece I used (3'x4') for $2.50 - score!
The tachometer plug I ordered from speedmotoco.com. It's for a sohc and I gambled it would fit and I was wrong. I had to file one side flat but it ended up working out.
 
Thanks guys!

Today's progress:

Finally got my wheels back together after powder coating. Installed new All balls bearing kits with new seals.



I know most wont dig these tires but I figured our rainy season is around the corner and I didn't get to enjoy the bike all Summer so I'm going to stretch things out a bit. These tires will help and I personally really like how they look.



I was worried about messing up the powder coat so I installed these by hand - total pain in the ass but just a matter of using the right lube and standing in the right place. Helped to let the tires sit in the sun for a bit too.



All aired up



Went down a tooth in front and installed a new chain



My kick stand was interfering with my rear sets so I drilled and tapped a "stop" that can be adjusted.



I'm not sure it's going to do the trick though - my rearsets are still a bit to close to the kick stand for my liking. I might end up having to relocate the kick stand to the front of the frame.



Notice how close the kickstand sits to the shifter.

Also, the business end of my kickstand had no more rubber and looked like something seriously heavy dropped on it so I cut it off and picked up a 36mm wrench at the thrift store.





Things are moving along slowly but I now have a roller.
 
I'm impressed with the fast progress you made but, trials tyres with rearsets?
 
Like I said, I didn't expect the tire choice to be a crowd pleaser but I live in Portland and they'll do good in the rainy weather. Add to that these were the only matching set of tires the shop had in my size and it was an easy choice.


She'll get new rubber in Spring if these bother me.
 
Today's progress:

So with the relocated relocated battery I needed to extend my battery cables. The ground cable would probably have been long enough but I figured if I was going to redo the positive cable I figured I might as well do the ground too.
I've redone battery cables with my cars and on bikes in the past and I always use welding cable. I decided to try something similar but different and use jumper cables (basically welding cable). I picked up a set of 16ft 6 gauge jumper cables and cut out the needed length of cable. (then reconnected the jumper cables and threw them in my trunk).





Stripped the ends, dripped some solder on and crimped some terminal ends on.

Poured in solder until it dripped out the bottom of the connection then applied heat shrink



Routed the cables just to double check length.



Started working on my seat.

I decided to go with metal because I hate fiber glass and figured this would be quicker.

Cut out a base and rolled the end up to match the look I was going for.




Used cardboard to make a template and cut out a top piece then formed it around the nearest object I could find that fit the radius I needed.



Placed the top over the base and began the slow process of stitch welding both together.







Still need to smooth the edges and make a seat pan but it's coming together.



Used some 1/8" steel and cut out a mount for the rear brake fluid reservoir and painted it while working on my kickstand.



Heated, cut and reshaped my kickstand to clear my rearsets.



Shifter all the way down:


Shifter at rest:


From the top:


From the back:
 
Re: Another crack at making a DOHC "cool"

Nice work. I'm digging the tires personally. They look tough and will be functional in your hood. Nice work on the side stand. I had the same problem so I just replaced mine with an aftermarket TC Brothers.


Yeah Son!
 
Re: Another crack at making a DOHC "cool"

Loctite77 said:
Nice work. I'm digging the tires personally. They look tough and will be functional in your hood. Nice work on the side stand. I had the same problem so I just replaced mine with an aftermarket TC Brothers.


Yeah Son!

Thanks man!

I was looking into the TC brother's stand but was concerned it would still interfere. Did you just replace the leg or go with the weld on kit hand relocate the entire stand?
 
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