"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

malloy said:
I don't think rattle can and "bling" belong in the same sentence. for the most part rattle can jobs are crap and simply don't last. the ONLY rattle can I support is the spraymax line and it's a 2K system. even sprays like a real gun. at 20$ a can this is the closest your going to get to a bodyshop.
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Absolutely worng malloy, if you do it it right you can get an amaizing paint job from a rattle can! I know a few others on here who will agree with me. If you read through this entire thread you will see where we have discused the 2K paint you speak of, I think this is a great way of painting yourself, however more expensive and requires some knowledge of using professional paint. I have created very pleasing results using very cheap spray paint.

It CAN be done!
 
How is the durability and longevity of your paint jobs? I've seen some rattle can jobs look absolutely amazing...at first. Then they ding and chip easily or their brilliance fades far too prematurely. Perhaps the key is to go a bit heavier on the clear and, of course, a high quality paint? Can anyone chime in with photos of a rattle can job that is at least a year old?
 
Represto said:
How is the durability and longevity of your paint jobs? I've seen some rattle can jobs look absolutely amazing...at first. Then they ding and chip easily or their brilliance fades far too prematurely. Perhaps the key is to go a bit heavier on the clear and, of course, a high quality paint? Can anyone chime in with photos of a rattle can job that is at least a year old?
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Chips are usually due to poor quality of work, typically in the prep and prime stages. As far as fading or lack of brilliance over time, that can occur with rattle can paint! It is one of the downs to using this method. With good paints they can last for a few years and show little to no loss of gleem while really cheap paints will loose thier luster fairly quickly. The upside to this is that rattle canning is cheap, so that just gives you an excuse to repaint your bike and try a new color! ;)

Good quality clear coat with UV protection will extend the life of your rattle can job and also your color paint should be a good quality paint with some form of UV protection.

Duplicolor makes many nice color paints with UV protection.

I will try to get some pics of some of my older rattle can jobs on here soon!
 
I'm looking to paint the frame in a silver (maybe the tank and tail too), a rattle-can job. Anyone know what kind of silver is used on some older Ducatis? It's a a very "metal" looking silver best I can describe it.

Cheers
 
This technique looks sound for solid colours; however, how would it change for multiple colours? I want to do a solid darker colour with some detail in white. I was thinking of...

- Follow instructions for priming
- Do base coat and end with a single layer of clear
- Let cure and then tape it
- Do the white paint and end with a clear
- Continue with clear coats

What do you think?
 
Represto said:
This technique looks sound for solid colours; however, how would it change for multiple colours? I want to do a solid darker colour with some detail in white. I was thinking of...

- Follow instructions for priming
- Do base coat and end with a single layer of clear
- Let cure and then tape it
- Do the white paint and end with a clear
- Continue with clear coats

What do you think?
Click to expand...

That is exactly the way to do it, somewhere in the thread there is a post about doing multiple colors, you may want to go through and find it, I spent a little time explaining how to go from one color to the next. Good luck!
 
Represto said:
This technique looks sound for solid colours; however, how would it change for multiple colours? I want to do a solid darker colour with some detail in white. I was thinking of...

- Follow instructions for priming
- Do base coat and end with a single layer of clear
- Let cure and then tape it
- Do the white paint and end with a clear
- Continue with clear coats

What do you think?
Click to expand...

I just finished a three-colour rattle can job and that's basically the steps I took. I wetsand between each colour. The taping is a bitch and time consuming but unwrapping it after each colour is fun. ;D

On this one I did the white first, then red and then black.

tankDecal.jpg


startUp.jpg
 
Great rattle can job! Did you use plain ol' masking tape or is there some thing else to use for taping to get really sharp lines?
 
Represto said:
Great rattle can job! Did you use plain ol' masking tape or is there some thing else to use for taping to get really sharp lines?
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Thanks. I used a really thin vinyl tape (2.5mm) to initially define the lines since there were some curves. I then used masking tape to tape off from the vinyl. For masking tape I used the blue Scotch brand painters tape from. If your piece doesn't have curves like this you could probably just use the masking tape. When I painted my KZ tank I taped the outside of the stripe with masking tape and used the vinyl (thin blue in pic) to define the two outside stripes.

tankTape.jpg
 
HerrDeacon said:
Thanks. I used a really thin vinyl tape (2.5mm) to initially define the lines since there were some curves. I then used masking tape to tape off from the vinyl. For masking tape I used the blue Scotch brand painters tape from. If your piece doesn't have curves like this you could probably just use the masking tape. When I painted my KZ tank I taped the outside of the stripe with masking tape and used the vinyl (thin blue in pic) to define the two outside stripes.

tankTape.jpg
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Awesome work man, and I agree with you 100% on the thin vinyl with the tape on that! That and some heavy brown painter paper is the only way to go! You can really make some great shapes with the thin vinyl, if you heat the vinyl a little before working it, that will make it even easier. I go to the autoparts store and buy the long rolls of vinyl pinstriping to use, I find that the vinyle gives you a very clean straight line that is sometimes hard to get from tape!
 
smooth passses and even coats... flat is not forgivin on runs, overlays, or too much paint. light even coats and take your time...
 
Hey betz, check out page two or three in this thread, the flat method is there, its labeled at the top as the tuff look and was posted by me. If you have not heard of or used the rustoleum high temp ceramic coating paint then you may want to look into it. I just found out about it but I am interested in how well it works on headers. I have heard if you use it to follow the oven baking directions on the can and then put them directly on the motor and run the hell out of it! It is said to be some killer stuff!

Feel free to ask any questions

Cheers
 
Soak the cans in extremely hot water for about 10-15 minutes before spraying. It raises the pressure inside the can and makes a nicer/smoother finish.
 
tWistedWheelz said:
Hey betz, check out page two or three in this thread, the flat method is there, its labeled at the top as the tuff look and was posted by me. If you have not heard of or used the rustoleum high temp ceramic coating paint then you may want to look into it. I just found out about it but I am interested in how well it works on headers. I have heard if you use it to follow the oven baking directions on the can and then put them directly on the motor and run the hell out of it! It is said to be some killer stuff!

Feel free to ask any questions

Cheers
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Twisted,

Thanks for the great post, can't wait to get painting. I have access to an industrial oven I can use to bake the parts but can't throw them right on the engine as it is disassembled and I was going to paint it at the same time. I was going to murder out most of the chrome in flat black, Engine, Pipes, wheels, etc. Do you think I could just bake it longer and increase the oven temp after the initial cure?

-Brian
 
Yeah, actually if you are using a good industrial oven that you can reach temps of 600 degrees F you should be fine to not having to run the hell out of it! That should work fine with your motor parts. If I were you I would wait on the headers if you plan on running paint only on them. Put them on unpainted ant get your motor running the way you like it, then remove, paint, bake, and then put them on and run the hell out of it. The reason I say that is due to the heat that is exerted on the headers, it is best to cure them at that temp to ensure they will hold up! Be sure to spray it lightly and be careful not to get any runs, you can not sand this stuff, you have to cure it and then blast it off if you mess up! If you do mess up, dont bake it, wait a week with it just in a dry area, then blast it! If you use very light easy coats to cover you will be fine. Remember less paint per pass and more passes= good flat paint! When done right this paint should be really really tough!

Let me know what you think of the ceramic stuff; how well it sprays, how thick it sprays with one coat, and how much do you use to do one header.
 
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING!.....no more bomb!

tWistedWheelz said:
Boom,

No that is no typo, you want to get some of the clear to bond chemically with some of the color, by laying down some color and then following it with some clear you can create that bond.

I am saying that this is to create a gloss finish only, you should use the primer that I stated(which is flat) and then gloss color paint and gloss clear. This same process could be used for semi-gloss as well, just use semi-gloss color and semi-gloss clear paints and stop after your last coat of clear, no need to buff and wax a semi-gloss!
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Hi Twisted,

Another quick question. I have only found the color I am looking for in Satin finish, Rustolium Painters touch. Can I use this and then use a better quality gloss clear to achieve a gloss finish? Maybe Extra coats of clear?

Thanks
Brian
 
Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING!.....no more bomb!

betz74 said:
Hi Twisted,

Another quick question. I have only found the color I am looking for in Satin finish, Rustolium Painters touch. Can I use this and then use a better quality gloss clear to achieve a gloss finish? Maybe Extra coats of clear?

Thanks
Brian
Click to expand...

Betz, You can use that paint and have no problem. However if you use it you should use rustoleum clear, rustoleum paints can act funny with other clears. You can get a nice clear glossy finish with it but you will still have a semi-satin look to the color. The clear will give you a "water reflection" shine if you lay it thick enough and clean enough. I have done a few paint jobs with rustoleum color and clear, and I have to say I was very happy with the final product.
Good Luck!
 
I've used the Rustoleum paint and clear and loved the results as well. I did my car rims with it three or four years ago and they are still perfect looking.

One thing to keep in mind though, the colour paint has to be sufficiently cured before applying the clear. If not it will wrinkle up, believe me I know. The curing time is on the can.
 
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