72 CB350 For the Daughter

OK cool. I forgot that you went to non stock controls. The other issue for your ground can be corrosion in the connectors, even when they aren't green they can make poor to no contact. I have pulled pins and sanded then clean then dielectric grease and the ground gremlins can go away.

My grounds are all good now. It usually helps when you connect all of them. I cleaned all of the connectors before I put the wiring harness in. I am going to check the solenoid, starter motor, and ignition switch today to see what it going on. I may also have a wire or two messed up in the controls so I need to go back through those to make sure I identified what wire does what to see if I hooked everything up correctly.

Cool, I'm sure you'll sort it. Your doing to good of a job on this bike not too.

Cheers

Mike

Well it couldn't be something easy.

With the ignition switch off and the run switch off a subsequent shorting of the solenoid turns the starter motor. Not good.
The switched power wire (black) at the solenoid gets power when the ignition switch is turned on.
With the solenoid disconnected and the black and yellow/red hooked up to a battery the solenoid clicks what I feel is pretty strongly.

I am going to say that the solenoid it good and that I missed wired something when adapting the GSXR controls.

I think it has something to do with yellow/red wire in the bike. In stock form that completes a ground when the starter button is depressed. I am almost positive the GSXR controls use the starter button to route power and not a ground.

Jumpered the yellow/red at the headlight bucket to ground. As soon as the ignition switch is turned to on the bike tries to crank. Which simulated the stock starter button being depressed.

Not sure what else to try other than trying to get a set of Triumph controls since I was able to get those to work on the 750 with virtually no issues. Plus they aren't nearly as bulky so they would look better.

The problem with the GSXR controls is that they jumper the incoming power to a number of the connection points internally of the housing. I have tried everything except opening up the controls and cutting wires to get them to work. So I have decided to ditch the GSXR controls and put on some from a Triumph. I figure I can follow the wiring connections I did on my bike and it should work. If not I am not sure what I will do. I just have to order more bullet connector pins since I used most of mine on the GSXR wires.

The new clutch and throttle cables arrived and they look pretty good. The clutch cable was billed as being 1" shorter than stock. However, it is the same exact length as my stock cable. I think I have to either modify or get a new throttle housing. There is a lip on the inside that prevents it from closing completely around the bar. The bar is your standard 7/8" and that is what the throttle housing is supposed to be for. Completely over torqued there is still a gap on each side of the housing.

All I know is that I am ready to get this thing fired up. It is driving me crazy just having it sit there.

I am having a hell of a time trying to match the color of the powder coat to a color in paint so I can print out the tank emblem/figure. As soon as I get the color matched I can give the parts to the painter. If I can't get the color to match I guess I will have to get him to paint it, which will cost a bit more.

You can check out the universal controls, Spark Moto has some and other vendors too. They may be cheaper than the Triumph and easier to wire as they come with instructions.

Surprisingly, I can get the Triumph controls cheaper than pretty much anywhere else.

Cool, go for those then. Here Triumph stuff is always a premium. I can get Honda stuff for almost free.

Triumph stuff usually is more expensive, but since my track bike is a Triumph I have a few sources. A number of people pull them from their track bikes in lieu of fancy minimal wiring stuff so they just have them sitting in a bin collecting dust.

Nice to have contacts for that kind of stuff. The Triumph stuff is probably top quality compared to universal as well.

Well, like has been the case lately as soon as I order something I either find the piece I was missing or I figure it out. Upon the suggestion on another forum I as able to get the controls to work. The suggestion was to take the black wire (switched power) on the solenoid and book it to a ground vice power then hook up the red/yellow wire like I had been. Sure enough the bike turns over when the starter button is depressed.

So that is working. Unfortunately, I bought a set of Triumph Daytona 675 controls off of eBay this morning. If only I had read the suggestion prior to the purchase I could have saved $45.

Managed to get the color matched for the part that wI'll go on the tank. I happened to be at Lowes this morning so I had them scan the extra flat piece I had powder coated. That didn't do anything for me. So I started comparing paint chips. I found one that was really close. A Google search for the RGB numbers was next. Got those and plugged them into ms paint. 15 adjustments later I have it damn near spot on. Since it will not be touching anything that is powder coated the extremely slight difference in color won't be noticed.

Congrats on getting the electrics working. Looking forward to seeing that tank


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And the horn doesn't work. Finally remembered to give it a try on the bike. When I had it out of the bike I remember hooking it up to the battery and all it would do is make a scratching noise. When I pulled it out of the bike it was hot so there is definitely something wrong with it.

Took the dremel with a drum sanding bit and opened up the throttle tube housing. It was almost 2mm too small and would not close all of the way. Once that was done I was able to hook up the throttle cable and adjust it to get the carbs to open at the same time. Got the clutch cable on and adjusted. Air filters on and secured. Headlight switch mounted in the triple. I think it looks pretty good. I was able to find a latching switch that had a cream colored top. Rear sprocket is being made and I will order the front sprocket and chain tomorrow.

I ordered some more water slide decal paper so as soon as that gets here I will be making the call to my painter.


Well it appears I am the killer of the horn. I was looking for a replacement when I noticed this:

Note: Adjusting or removing the nut that holds the horn to the bracket or the small set screw on the back will prevent the horn from working properly.

Click to expand...

I had removed the nut that holds the horn to the bracket so I could direct mount it. I guess I won't be making that mistake with the new one.

Well I messed up again. My rear sprocket arrived today since so I installed it on the wheel. Got the rear wheel installed and went to hook up the brake rod. That is when I realized I had the wrong one powder coated. The one I had done is for the CB400 I used for the rear wheel. As such it is about two inches longer than the one for the 350. I picked the best one I had when I was prepping parts not noticing the difference in length. I already talked with the guy that did my powder coating and he is going to hook me up.

Things have been moving a bit slow these days. A few new parts have arrived so that is good. One of which is the horn. Hooked it up directly to the battery and it works.

I had a bit a play in the rear sprocket that I didn't like. I was able to slide in another washer about the same thickness as the one that was already in there and things got nice and snug. Reading through some other posts on the comstar wheels there have been reports of the washer and/or the spacer getting a bit worn so I ordered a new washer and spacer from David Silver Spares. If the new parts don't take up the space I guess I could always use both washers.

Stopped by the painter the other day and went over things. I will probably drop the parts off on Monday.

Also ordered a new battery. In order to get one in a size that will fit the battery box and provide enough power I had to get one with the terminals on the opposite sides from stock. However, if I rotate the battery 180* I can make things fit. The ground line is not problem, but I will have to make a longer positive cable that goes to the solenoid.

The Triumph controls arrived yesterday and I am seriously thinking about using them. I think they just look better.

As far as I can tell I think the only part I need to order is a brake line. I have already talked with Shaun at Slingshot Cycles to have a custom one made. Since he doesn't have a line listed for the CB400Tii all I need to do is send the oem line to him so he can use it as a reference to make mine. He gives a bit of a discount if you send him a stock line that he doesn't already have to use as a reference for future builds.

Waterslide decal paper arrived yesterday so I will be printing up the decals today so they have way more time than necessary to dry.

Along with sanding/polishing the headers I think I might try and fire the bike up on Saturday.

Well I was hoping to post today with good news, but I guess it wasn't meant to be. I attempted to start the bike, but couldn't. When I thumbed the starter it turned over once then kind of acted like the battery was dead. If I held the starter button down I could hear a see the crank turning, but it was decrepedly slow. Hooked up a different battery and had the same results. Both batteries are new and had been on the charger prior to use.


Then there is the issue with the rearsets. So much for clearing the exhaust. Not sure what I am going to do here. As they are positioned they are already pointed too high. I would have to point them so high to get a toe underneath the lever they would be nearly impossible to use.

I have never had a bike fight me as much as this one is. It is pretty discouraging.

Come on, support you

Harsh said:

Well I was hoping to post today with good news, but I guess it wasn't meant to be. I attempted to start the bike, but couldn't. When I thumbed the starter it turned over once then kind of acted like the battery was dead. If I held the starter button down I could hear a see the crank turning, but it was decrepedly slow. Hooked up a different battery and had the same results. Both batteries are new and had been on the charger prior to use.


Then there is the issue with the rearsets. So much for clearing the exhaust. Not sure what I am going to do here. As they are positioned they are already pointed too high. I would have to point them so high to get a toe underneath the lever they would be nearly impossible to use.

I have never had a bike fight me as much as this one is. It is pretty discouraging.

Click to expand...

The rear-sets would always foul with the exhaust because the passenger peg mounts are not really a good position for them. See if you can make a little adapter/riser plate to mount them a bit higher/further back to gain the clearance.

Not sure about you're starting issues, apart from a drain or poor connection in the system somewhere. Was the starter motor working properly before?

Looks nice and clean, so keep at it!

What bothers me about the rearsets is that they are supposed to fit and work. It think that even if I had a stock exhaust on the bike I think they would still hit it. I sent the manufacturer an email asking for some assistance. The only thing I can think of is adding an extension to push the rearsets out a bit from the mounting locations will solve the problem, but I don't know how that will affect the heim joints. I haven't measured, but I guestimate I need to move the reasets out about 3/4" so they clear the exhaust. However, I do not like how the foot peg sits right over the top of the exhaust. I think the heat will be a shoe melter. Or I could try and extend the exhaust back a bit, but then I would lose any ability to lift the bike from the rear. The stand in use in the pic just barely has room to get under the axle and not hit the exhaust.

The riser plate could work, but I am not sure how to make it and not have it flex.

I am going to pull the starter motor out of the bike and hook it up to one of the vehicles to see how it spins. It might be bad, or have bad brushes or something else internal, or just need a good spin up with a battery with more juice. The PO said he couldn't get he bike to start so he put it in the corner of his garage 10-15 years ago. I never tested it before I put back in the bike after the engine rebuild.

My money is on ground for the starter.
If the motor isn't grounded well to the frame (since it's newly painted) the starter motor won't be able to ground well and cause your exact symptoms.
Grab some jumper cables and hook the negative side of the battery directly to the engine and try again, if that works you'll need to remove some paint from the frame to get it to work, or put in a ground strap somewhere.