Down under, an idiot and a 400F

I've also been checking some calculations to make sure I'm not going to go over the 10a load rating for the main wire I will be using. From my old physics days at school I know: I=V/R and I=P/V

I am running the coils and headlight on the same circuit (so that the headlight only really comes on when the motor is running). I've assumed 3ohm coils and a 55w main beam.

Coils:
I=12/3
Amps: 4

Headlight:
I=P/V
Amps: 4.58

Total: 8.58amps

Plus everything else on the bike is pretty much run off the same ignition supply. Do I need to run more that 1 ignition supply (from the ignition relay) or am I looking at it wrong?
 
You only really need relays where there is a significant current draw that might damage or overload your stock wiring (apart from your indicator relay, of course). The brake / tail light draws little current (21w brake / 5w tail in standard spec) - and you only have the brake light on monentarily (unless you're trailing your brakes all the time....). And you are going LED, so the current draw is even less then that.

As for running both tail and brake lights at the same time - that's what they are designed to do. Again - the brake light is momentary.

You would be better off running relays to your coils (with heavier gauge wire) to ensure they are getting the full battery voltage than using relays on running lights / ancillaries where they are not required (Google coil relay mod - lots of older bikes "need" it).
 
hillsy said:
You only really need relays where there is a significant current draw that might damage or overload your stock wiring (apart from your indicator relay, of course). The brake / tail light draws little current (21w brake / 5w tail in standard spec) - and you only have the brake light on monentarily (unless you're trailing your brakes all the time....). And you are going LED, so the current draw is even less then that.

As for running both tail and brake lights at the same time - that's what they are designed to do. Again - the brake light is momentary.

You would be better off running relays to your coils (with heavier gauge wire) to ensure they are getting the full battery voltage than using relays on running lights / ancillaries where they are not required (Google coil relay mod - lots of older bikes "need" it).
Click to expand...

Thanks mate! I will remove the relay from the brake light and keep that simple and use the relay for the coils instead. That will significantly reduce the current draw on the live feed (as it will be relay and headlight as opposed to coils and headlight) and also means I can use the spare fuse I have to run a direct feed from the battery to the coils, made live by the relay activated by the running switch.

:)
 
Double checked with Custom Dynamics that constantly running the running light and adding additional current for the brake light is fine (as pointed out).

So I'll be swapping the relay out for the coils instead which helps me out big time on the current draw.

Also the eBayer I bought the carb gasket kit over delivered on the service front, replacements were delivered in about 4 days and I've got packaging and a sticker to send the old ones back. Great service and he was a true gentleman in responding to his error.

Also had my genuine Honda CB battery strap turn up today too.
 

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crazypj any thoughts on whether I should pull the needle jets from the carbs to make sure the cross holes are clear?

I've got a bit more soda blasting to do on the inside where the linkage goes (I want them spotless) and want them 100% ready for the jets now I've got my gaskets.

Also any thoughts on how to replace the felt washers (unfortunately 1 choke and 1 upper linkage is missing). I assume I'll have to make my own, is there some sort of punch I can buy for the washer and inside hole?

Any thoughts on best replacement material?

How about 2mm felt?

http://bit.ly/Zv5M9R
 
i got a set of hole punches from the local cheap arse import tool shop, cost around $5 for a set of 8 i think, they range from a couple of mm to about the size of a 1cent piece, i use them for plastics (model building) so they would work fine on felt.
use a scrap piece of soft wood under the felt so that the punch can go all the way thru the felt and into the wood for a complete and clean cut, anything harder and you'll find the cuts may not be complete and the felt will tear or deform when you try to seperate it from the waste piece
felt in a variety of colours is available at craft shops ( probably one in your local large shopping mall) you can get adhesive backed stuff that can be stuck to itself to make double thickness
i only know this cos i also use felt in car modelling for scale carpets, honest, i'm not into scrapbooking............
although for thicker/denser felts you could try an old school auto spare parts shop as lots of old english crap (cars that is, not the bikes.....) used it for gaskets and it used to be sold off the roll
 
Gotcha! Thanks for the tip, found a tonne of those punches on eBay. Will double check the 2 size felt washers I need to make and order up.

Appreciate the input.
 
I would also look for a small round sharpening stone, you can't have too sharp for cutting soft material.
I have used small sanding drum in Dremel
 
crazypj said:
I would also look for a small round sharpening stone, you can't have too sharp for cutting soft material.
I have used small sanding drum in Dremel
Click to expand...

Got one already. Just measured the washers and they are both about 1mm thickness with an OD of 8mm and 11mm. I will grab some felt a 7mm, 8mm, 10mm and 11mm punch and see how it works.
 
neevo said:
crazypj any thoughts on whether I should pull the needle jets from the carbs to make sure the cross holes are clear?

I've got a bit more soda blasting to do on the inside where the linkage goes (I want them spotless) and want them 100% ready for the jets now I've got my gaskets.

Also any thoughts on how to replace the felt washers (unfortunately 1 choke and 1 upper linkage is missing). I assume I'll have to make my own, is there some sort of punch I can buy for the washer and inside hole?

Any thoughts on best replacement material?

How about 2mm felt?

http://bit.ly/Zv5M9R
Click to expand...

I wouldn't even consider fitting carbs without checking pilot jets are 100% clear (although the new ones on their way are going to be fine ;) )
Cross holes in emulsion tubes are 0.60mm, pilot jet cross drillings on genuine jets are larger (0.70~0.75mm)
Aftermarket pilot jets have 0.50~0.60mm cross drillings which can mess things up as it changes fuel curve
As for felt washers, yep, it's about the only thing to do.
I've tried making nylon and Teflon 'seals', they are real critical on size, if even 0.0005" off the throttle sticks :(
 
PJ I was talking about the holes on the needle jets which I won't be changing out (not worried about the slows as I bought new and genuine Keihin). Do I need to press them out and clean them somehow?

Shame to hear that those felt washers are critical to get the size right, my measurements were a bit rough as the sizing was a bit funny. Might re look at them and triple check the sizing.
 
Hi Ed, size is no where near as critical with felt washers
Nylon and Teflon cause binding.
Yep, push out the emulsion tubes/needle jets, I forgot they are completely different to 360 (doh, ::) )
Did you get the pin chuck and micro drill set?
Check the diameters with the blunt end of drill
 
crazypj said:
Hi Ed, size is no where near as critical with felt washers
Nylon and Teflon cause binding.
Yep, push out the emulsion tubes/needle jets, I forgot they are completely different to 360 (doh, ::) )
Did you get the pin chuck and micro drill set?
Check the diameters with the blunt end of drill
Click to expand...

Ah got ya! That's a relief. I'm only missing 1 small and 1 large so if I have any issues I can only replace those. I would prefer they are all the same though.

I will push out the needle jets then and give them a clean. Didn't get a micro drill set yet, but will check your messages and order one up now.

I've heard a hardwood stick sharpened at the end like a pencil is a great way to driving out the needle jet, let me know if I've got this wrong.

Will also order up some felt and punches so I've got everything to get these carbs in tip top condition. Arguably the first thing that will be completely finished on the bike ;)
 
Don't remember who (Teazer?) chopstick works and you shouldn't need to modify it
You should have a Chinese restaurant not too far away?
 
crazypj said:
Don't remember who (Teazer?) chopstick works and you shouldn't need to modify it
You should have a Chinese restaurant not too far away?
Click to expand...

Better than that! I've got some in the kitchen drawer, brilliant idea!

Table of stuff to do today:

D30E54FE-BE75-4F86-BC66-E34AAA1258CB-637-00000058B132A9FE.jpg


1. Redo my starter solenoid mount. The one I did earlier is rough and I want it much neater. Will cut it out again an be a bit more careful scoring it for bending as last time I was too deep and it lots its structure. I put some welds in the inside but they are rough... hence why I'm redoing it.
2. Make my battery strap mounts
3. Make the carb pucks. I bought some 6mm Alu for this and later realised its probably not needed. There is only 1 puck for a reason, its used in the middle to hang the return spring off. Ah well I've got the Alu here now so I may as well make them and have them on all carbs.
4. Push out the needle jet and start rebuilding the carbs with fresh parts. Need to grab some more soda to finish blasting the insides of the carbs too. Then reassemble with fresh gaskets in preparation for my new jets arriving.
5. Test making replacement felt washers for the carb linkage.
6. Start laying out the placement of the electrical components on the battery box (my new fuse box, relays, starter solenoid, RFID etc)
 
Already done with the needle jets courtesy of the chopstick trick. Worked a treat.

What's the best way to clear the holes onthe needle jet? One of those mini drill bits? If so what size do you suggest PJ?
 
Chopsticks FTW. Yes!

Use the wire from a wire bush but measure it first to be sure it's small enough.
 
teazer said:
Chopsticks FTW. Yes!

Use the wire from a wire bush but measure it first to be sure it's small enough.
Click to expand...

My wire brush is 0.35mm wire. How do I know what the holes on the needle jet are supposed to be?
 
On the tube it looks like the holes get smaller towards the top too. I might just use the wire to clean them out a touch, maybe hit it with the soda blaster and leave it at that. Don't want to bugger up the needle jets.
 
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