another cookie cutter jap bobber

Here is an update, a brake pedal re-used for my forwards. The foot peg is from my buddies softtail passenger pegs. I had to cut them a little shorter.
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Here is how I did the midway linkage. Honestly, it kind of sucks and doesn't really return well to release the brake. Seriously considering a different way of doing it. In theory, you push on the brake pedal, that pushes a 5/16 threaded rod with heim ends toward the rear of the bike, which pushes that flat stock back and that PULLS the brake rod-another 5/16 rod to the front applying the brake.
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This is me in the saddle(does this fender make my motorcycle look small)-so somewhat compressed spring, its riding kind of low.
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And here is the bottom soon to get beat the hell up by crappy roads.
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Ok, one more-again sorry for the huge pics. Pretty much up to date with how this pile sits right now in the cave. I found this Unity spot light at the scrap yard and it was begging to get adopted. The pros- it was cheap as hell and the light bulb still works after how many years, the cons-I have no idea how in the hell to keep the bulb in the case, the gaskets or whatever was used to hold it in dry rotted 30 years ago-IF you know how to do this please help a brother out. I mounted the light with a piece of angle that I bolted on to the bottom triple tree fork clamps, drilled a center hole, and bent down-I know it NEEDS bent down more or the only thing I illuminate on the road will be the trees and light poles.
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If you see something F'ed up again please point it out. Hell, I even like constructive hatin. Thanks again everyone for posting up their projects and how you folks do stuff. It really helps feebs like me figure some stuff out.

So, I got one more pic -not this heap^, another one that has been keeping me from working on this one. It is the rear set that I made out of some 1/2 inch aluminum-used 3/8" bolt and a bronze (or brass-hell I don't know it was at ace hardware) bushing. Its not really done, but at least most of the way. I wanted my rearsets a little lower than the passenger peg position. I used shrink tubing on u bolts to go around the passenger peg loop section- that shiny metal flat stock is from the S-yard too-no clue what it is- some type of steel and stainless alloy about a 1/4" thick. I will use acorns or possibly lock nuts on the ubolts so my pants don't get snagged.
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boisdarc said:
Here's a possible color combo. The green will be a little more olive, but not to olive drab. I probably don't need to mention that I'm no photoshop expert. Any one for or against these ugly colors? Any guesses on the "138".
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Misfits song, "We Are 138"?
 
for your brake set up, in order to get it to return I have a suggestion. The spring coil that generally is used can be utilized sideways. Raise your linkage on a bearing. Then add a pin (bolt) facing downwards on the actual linkage and an upwards bolt on the frame. Around the bearing place the spring so when you push down the brake, the spring will catch the bolts.
 
Thanks man, Sounds like a viable option, and something I will look into. I've been really working on my triumph for the last several weeks, partially because of waiting for a few electronic items to find their way to me-got them now. My triumph is so close(rebuilding a petcock) then done. After that back to this bobber build. thanks again.
 
If its not too late... You can buy springs and stuff from parts stores. The best ones are in brake drum repair kits, they are cheep too and have useful other bits to always keep on hand.

So,

Yellow= drill a hole and make a tab with a hole.

Red= direction lever travel of brake application

Black= spring


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Maybe thats what you were talking about in the first place?
 
it's not, but it's better than what I said. Also I think if you just hook the spring to the bolt that is already on there it would have a better pull since it's further from the fulcrum.
 
IF you used a bolt with a hole in the head as in the kind for lock wire.

It was a 3 min photochop, the hole where ever you want. You can even drill in more speed holes if that's your thing.
 
this looks like the direction its going -thanks for the photoshoppin I suck at it. I looked at ace hardware they have this kind of spring in many different sizes. Just realized in this big pic the crappy birdshit welds on the battery box. Thanks for the help fellas
 
Got this stuff a while back, haven't been able to work much on the sickle. A few of my students at the gym have had fights and I've been working with them overtime.
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Putting this stuff in this fako oil bag aint that much fun. It's about like tying a fishing fly inside a coffee can. I'm back and forth between the little dirtbike bars and the clubmans upsidedown and backwards.
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i hear you on the bars. I just put some cut down cb175 bars on my 450 last night after trying on some flipped and backwards mounted clubmans I bought the other day. I'm still thinking about going with the clubmans as well though...i think flipped they look better than the way they are "supposed" to be mounted.
 
Posting since I just found your thread and want to keep an eye on this build. Kudos for the inovation of hardtailing that stamped frame.

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Nice job, I also started one of these babies, I would do a thread but, its on hold for now, I did the ass end with a bit different shape to it. good luck with the rest of the build! Sorry for the bad cell pics...
 

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to shiz. Could you show a close up of how you tied into your existing stamped frame. My pics don't show very well, and there are some folks here that would like to see it. thanks man
 
Re: another cookie cutter jap bobber OR how i'm reinventing the mouse trap

Its been quite a while since posting (or working on this boat anchor) the garage is no longer over a 100 degrees and the sparks are now a flying. So the fact is, you can't go to walmart and buy a foot clutch for a jap bike. This is kind of my take on a mouse trap-not really but I don't know what else to call it. The foot lever pulls a rod down and to the front in a diagonal axis, thereby activating the "v" shaped lever. This in turn pulls a clutch cable in the horizontal axis-which in turns goes into a curved clutch cable housing. Some folk will just run a long cable up to a pedal. The cable is adjustable at the curve, at the aluminum block (I repurposed the stock lever adjuster-drilled and tapped the al. block), and it is adjustable at both ends of the the threaded rod heim joints.
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I'm really liking your build you have going....want to follow the progress.

The stance of this bike is sweet, have you considered straight bars? That might give it a good balance from front to rear.

The oil filter hanging off the side is pretty cool too.
 
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