Project Good Enough - Side walk build GT500

drøn

Active Member
This is not that special a build, but I didn't know where else to put it.

This is my first bike and first build as well. I have posted about it before, but just thought I'd start a build thread.
A '76 Suzuki GT500 I bought it in (mostly) running condition.
This is how I got it. in the pic I had just wrapped the tusty headers they have since been painted properly.
IMG_0528.JPG

and heres a sketch of the direction I want the build to go.
suzuki1.jpg

I have chenged the handlebar levers for some from a Kawasaki and added stainless brake line - still looking to upgrade the rotor to a modern one.
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and I have lowered the head light and gauges by simply flipping the headlight ears and gauge bracket. worked great.

Here's the idea for a new seat:
s%25C3%25A6derend1.jpg

And some photos from the making of new header clamps.
DSC_0456.JPG

DSC_0522.JPG

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Remember those 3D glasses you got with your Donald Duck magazine or in the cereals when you were kid?
3dmc.jpg
 
Love the bright yellow of the original bike - but then I've always been a sucker for a flashy bike.
Are you casting your own alloy or do you have someone to do the melt for you? Working my way through school, I used to work as a pattern maker's apprentice and made my share of patterns - might do so again some day if I get the motivation to make some finned and ribbed bits for my bikes.
Neat project - have fun.
Regards,
Pat Cowan,
Vintage Motorcycle Fiberglass
 
pacomotorstuff said:
Love the bright yellow of the original bike - but then I've always been a sucker for a flashy bike.
Are you casting your own alloy or do you have someone to do the melt for you? Working my way through school, I used to work as a pattern maker's apprentice and made my share of patterns - might do so again some day if I get the motivation to make some finned and ribbed bits for my bikes.
Neat project - have fun.
Regards,
Pat Cowan,
Vintage Motorcycle Fiberglass

Yes, I did the casting myself. I study to be an architect and we have a quite nice model workshop at the school (Copenhagen). I just told it was models for a residence hall.
 
Say hello to my future oil tank
flaske.jpg

Here's where I plan to put it. that way I can use the mounting point for the air box and battery tray.
flaske1.jpg
 
We use those as breather bottles on our race bikes. they are a bit thin and flimsy for an oil tank and they don't hold very much.

In the US we can get some very good plastic tanks from US Plastics Corp that are idea for oil tanks. Not as pretty perhaps, but more functional and I'd hate for an oil tank to split.
 
Thank you for your concern.
I chose a stainless steel version and it feels OK I think. Other people have good experience with theese.
One liter is OK for me. I plan to make a sight tube to monitor the level.
What would cause it to split? Vibration? I've been thinking about suspending it in some kind of rubber bands.
 
You should look at an aircraft supply house like Aircraft Spruce (they send parts by mail if you need them to), specifically for MS21919 DG and DG clamps, variously known as Adel clamps or cushion clamps or P- clamps or whatever. I don't know what size your bottle is but the MS clamps are sized in 16th's of an inch. Example: a 7/16" clamp is a DG7 (7X1/16) and a 3" clamp is a DG48 (48X1/16) and so on.

They are a steel looped clamp with rubber cushioning. A couple of them will hold that bottle just fine. The only caveat I have with an oil tank that small, if you are on a real throttle-pinning afternoon with the bike and doing a fair bit of miles, bring some spare injector lube in your back pack 'cause you're gonna need it.
Their website is www.aircraftspruce.com . Lots of neat stuff for your build.
Regards,
Pat Cowan,
Vintage Motorcycle Fiberglass
 
Yes it's vibration and age hardening (on aluminium at least) that causes cracking. It must be rubber mounted to minimize vibration. Pat had a great idea with rubber coated P clips.

If possible, get a 1.25 or 1.5L bottle so that it does not need to be completely empty before you pour a complete 1L bottle in to top it up.
 
Yeah, I can see the aluminum being an issue, but I would think that the stainless you have there wold be fine; I'd probably rubber mount it anyway... it's easy enough to do.

I love your sketches, by the way. Can't wait to see where this one goes!
 
I make the Old Stock Rotors like a Modern Rotor.
There not only drilled, there blanch milled to 4mm and resurfaced on both sides then reinstalled on the freshly glass blasted carriers with Stainless Steel alien screws & nuts.

The result is nearly a 1/2 weight reduction, Heat & brake gas venting as well as en excellent gripping surface.
 
Modern disks are much lighter than OEM old style disks and the material has a higher coefficient of friction. How thin do you grind them?

For someone that wants the original style, they might be a good idea.
 
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