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Author Topic: 1996 HD Sportster 883 Iíll need a hugger when itís over Hellride  (Read 2130 times)

Offline brad black

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i really like the turn up on the softail rear guard, pity it didn't make it.  i'm trying to work out how to make one work with my next monster project.

Online irk miller

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i really like the turn up on the softail rear guard, pity it didn't make it.  i'm trying to work out how to make one work with my next monster project.
I agree.  It's not stock, but instead a fiberglass version of a Softail fender.  I could narrow it by cutting a 1/2" to inch of the center, but also the curve of the fender and how it fits the inner frame was a struggle.  If it's my Sportster, I say fuck it and cut the frame and make it match.  But the guy asked for a bobbed fender and I took a chance to see if could make that one work easily then hope he likes it.  If he didn't, then I could always bob the stock Sportster fender- no harm, no foul.  Basically, the caveat was that the Softail fender required the frame to be much shorter than the bobbed Sportster fender.

Offline brad black

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yep.  it's always different being on the clock to someone rather than doing it for you.

i've seen a few fibreglass ones around, but i don't know that any of them are wide enough for the back of a monster.  or how i'd make it tie in anyway.

Online irk miller

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In designing the tail light, I machined it to utilize a 16mm bolt LED.  These are two wire LEDs that have really good brightness, especially with the magnifying lens.  To use as a running light/brake light, however, you typically need a 3 wire light- ground/running/brake.  What I have done instead, is create a circuit that will allow this two-wire light to be used.  To do so, I used two Zener 12V 5W Axial Diodes, and a 1KΩ 5% 1/2W resistor on the running lights circuit.



I attach leads on each circuit to match the stock harness, paint everything with liquid tape, cover it all in shrink.



It's hard to get clear images to show the results with my camera because it's flooding the lens with so much light, but with a flash you get a decent idea.  The first pic is the running light, and the second pic is the brake light.




Offline Hurco550

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That's the same thing I did on those lights on the dr650. they are super bright.

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Offline The Jimbonaut

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To do so, I used two Zener 12V 5W Axial Diodes, and a 1KΩ 5% 1/2W resistor on the running lights circuit.

I haven't understood a sentence less in about 30 years. 

Bike sure looks good though.  Every time I see a well appointed Sportster I miss the one I sold last year.
« Last Edit: Apr 15, 2018, 20:21:00 by The Jimbonaut »
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Online Sonreir

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How come the diodes instead of just the resistor?
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Online irk miller

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How come the diodes instead of just the resistor?
The diodes prevent flow back, so they separate the circuits.  Otherwise, it would be brake light all the time. 

Online Sonreir

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You're using an LED light, right? The lamp already is a diode. :P
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Online irk miller

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You're using an LED light, right? The lamp already is a diode. :P
It's a light emitting diode, yes, but but when you run reverse flow on them they blow.  Without the Zener diodes, the LED would have a very short life.  Not all diodes act the same.