Allow me to introduce myself

You have pilot screws, which are for fuel. If you blow through them to the float bowls, then you're confirming they are fuel. The vacuum through the venturi draws fuel through the jet directly from your bowl.

These carbs are very picky when it comes to air flow. All of your air hoses need to be hooked up. All of your rubber needs to be in good working order.
 
farmer92 said:
You can never clean a spark plug
It will work for a little while, but in the end it will foul so much easier.
Just drop the 5$ a piece and replace them to eliminate that possibility.

What do you mean when you blow through them?
You removed the screws and blew into them?
It would come out the pilot jet and air inlet if they are air screws.

I removed the plugs and turned the engine for about 15 seconds to blow any excess gas out. Maybe a drop or two came out. The plugs were soaked though.


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SquidHunter said:
I removed the plugs and turned the engine for about 15 seconds to blow any excess gas out. Maybe a drop or two came out. The plugs were soaked though.


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Never mind, you ment blowing through the pilot screws? I took them out and blew cleaned through them.


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irk miller said:
You have pilot screws, which are for fuel. If you blow through them to the float bowls, then you're confirming they are fuel. The vacuum through the venturi draws fuel through the jet directly from your bowl.

These carbs are very picky when it comes to air flow. All of your air hoses need to be hooked up. All of your rubber needs to be in good working order.

They are picky for sure. The rubber is all good. Air cutoffs are good.

I’ve got some experience with this set of carbs, but for whatever reason they changed.


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You didn't by mistake incorrectly install or switch the main and secondary jets in one or 2 of the carbs?
 
farmer92 said:
You can never clean a spark plug
It will work for a little while, but in the end it will foul so much easier.
Just drop the 5$ a piece and replace them to eliminate that possibility.

What do you mean when you blow through them?
You removed the screws and blew into them?
It would come out the pilot jet and air inlet if they are air screws.

The plugs are probably done then. I’ll change them for sure.

I’ve been running iridium, because they really are that much better, but I’ve had this set on for over a year


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Maritime said:
You didn't by mistake incorrectly install or switch the main and secondary jets in one or 2 of the carbs?

I did not. I’ve made that mistake before. It’s an easy one to make. I now double and triple check them.

I do suspect they are now the wrong size tho.

I’ll go back to stock, with new plugs. If for nothing else as a better starting point


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FWIW, the air cut offs are just an emissions trick to keep unburnt fuel out of the exhaust during decel. They can be blocked off.
 
Much appreciated to everyone! Just talking through everything is a tremendous help.

Here’s how I’ll move forward, when I get back from my trip: 1. Pull the carbs (again) . I’ll rejet back to stock, and set the pilot screws per manual 1.5. I’ll do another bench sync for staters. 2. Replace the old plugs with new 3. Reset the timing. It was probably right to start with, but I’ll set it up again just in case.

I feel pretty confident it will spring right into action.

In the meantime I’ll keep my battery on charge. What was baffling seems to make sense now, and that’s a relief. I mean spark, fuel, and air..... am I right?


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irk miller said:
FWIW, the air cut offs are just an emissions trick to keep unburnt fuel out of the exhaust during decel. They can be blocked off.

I’ve heard that. Apparently it enriches the mixture at idle a bit too? I’ve also heard that. When I first got the bike, I never could get it to idle right until I changed the air cutoffs. I’ve got a lot of traffic where I’m at so a proper idle is high on my priorities list.

How do you block them off? Heard any success stories with it?


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Block the vacuum hole, remove diaphragm and spring, make a gasket the size of the cover and screw it back down.
 
Here’s a few more photos. The last one is where it sets now, at the shop. Btw, if anyone ever goes through Richmond be sure and check out Engine and Frame. They have a community garage with anything you need.




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irk miller said:
Block the vacuum hole, remove diaphragm and spring, make a gasket the size of the cover and screw it back down.

Seems easy enough, but I’m curious about the trade off. One thing for sure, the cut offs ain’t getting cheaper


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I did it on an XL, so I can't say for your bike. No performance gain, though.
 
Hey man. I'm fairly local to you, I live down in Chester. That's a nice bike, and great work you're doing so far. If I can be of any help, let me know. I have a garage, lift, tools, you name it. I'd be happy to help!
 
hooligan998 said:
Hey man. I'm fairly local to you, I live down in Chester. That's a nice bike, and great work you're doing so far. If I can be of any help, let me know. I have a garage, lift, tools, you name it. I'd be happy to help!

Nice! I appreciate the offer! May take you up on that some day! We moved here about a little over a year ago, and it’s been great. Last bike trip I rode all of Skyland drive to blue ridge, then took blue ridge to the Smokey mts. Man, I got caught in some weather tho


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Good Report!
Pulled the carbs again. I must have tossed the stock jets, because they weren’t in my kit. I did have 70s and 100s, so I threw those in. Stock is 68/98, so that’s not too far off. I did the right thing and ran gas through the carbs before mounting them. This way I got a good seat on all the float needles. Mounted the carbs, changed the plugs, and reset the timing. Bike fired up first bump! Got a perfect sync on the carbs, and it’s idle is great.
Now the only thing left is wiring up the lights, and I’ll be on the road.



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irk miller said:

I know, right! After talking it over, I was pretty sure it was the spark plugs. Then the carbs, I’ve been suspicious of them since the last time I pulled them out


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