TR1 wannabefast&light

Made some progress on the front end.

There's a couple of things you need to do to fit a 2009-2012 R6 front end to a 1981 TR1/XV1000

The main issue is that the bottom end of the steering stem is 31mm thick and the Steering headset on the bike is 50mm wide.
Issue: there is no steering stem bearing sized d31 D50 in the known universe
Solution: Machine 1 mm off from the r6 for stem.
Then you can use the standard d30 D50 streering bearings on both upper and lower section.

Next problem is that the lower bearing cup is pretty deep so you will need a 3-4mm shimm in the bottom to avoid scraping.
If you put a thicker one it will make the top end side too short, it's already at the limit as the stem is slightly shorter than the original, but with some locktite I think it will be enough for the top nut to hold.
It's actually the two tightening nuts actually keeping it together so I'm not too worried about the top nut anyways.
 

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Could you machine down the top triple a little bit so that the top nut has some more threads? Just where the stem goes through?
 
Tested also that if my "extra Bandit 2002 front wheel would fit on the 2010 R6 front end and the answer is YES! and no.

actually the brakes and disks seem to align nicely, but a small problem is that the axle on the R6 is 22mm and the Bearings on the Bandit front wheel are d20mm.

Solution: put in d22 D47 bearings to the Bandit wheel, or that's the plan at least.

Need to get the beaaarings and test this in practise.
Also will need to get a 22mm hub center pipe thingy machnined or possibly use a regular R6 one if it's the same lenght as a Bandit one, who knows I might be lucky?
 

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Bruno, machining the top end triple clamp could be an option but there actually is almost 2/3 of the threads used on the top nut, its not very tightly squeezed on the pic + I have a 4mm shimm on the bottom, you might even be able to use 2mm shimm and get more length on the top.
 

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LazyOx said:
Bruno, machining the top end triple clamp could be an option but there actually is almost 2/3 of the threads used on the top nut, its not very tightly squeezed on the pic + I have a 4mm shimm on the bottom, you might even be able to use 2mm shimm and get more length on the top.

Ah, the pic was deceiving then, 2/3 of the threads should be plenty. Just want to make sure you aren't too loose or you'll have a wobbly front end :) Carry on with the bike porn. This is good stuff!
 
Hollywood, yep cutting the neck crossed my mind, but I'm trying to keep the frame original If I ever wanted to put the original fork back in (probably never gonna happen).

ps. I have ziptied the cam sprocket to the chain so it would be on the same spot when I put in the cam again.

pps. Hollywood I saw that you were thinking about putting in slightly milder cams with more duration rather than lift, which one you ended up putting in ? I'm tempted to get the BT-C05 from http://bigtwins.co/web-cam/
 
LazyOx said:
Hollywood, yep cutting the neck crossed my mind, but I'm trying to keep the frame original If I ever wanted to put the original fork back in (probably never gonna happen).

ps. I have ziptied the cam sprocket to the chain so it would be on the same spot when I put in the cam again.

pps. Hollywood I saw that you were thinking about putting in slightly milder cams with more duration rather than lift, which one you ended up putting in ? I'm tempted to get the BT-C05 from http://bigtwins.co/web-cam/

Zip tying won't help really as the cams float without the sprocket plus the tensioner has adjusted. Become very familiar with the cam alignment procedure.

I don't think I ever spoke of wanting a milder cam? Tracker has the mega cycle level 1 upgrade and the Cafe has level 4 of 5 iirc. I'm on my phone I would need to compare on the pc, but the 05s look good. I'm always a fan of giving up tq for hp an a vtwin.
 
Got the pistons installed.
Cam timing was actually pretty easy, check instructions here http://www.tr1.de/pages/technics_linda.php?techidx=14
At least on paper, have not yet started her up properly as the carbs need to be re-jetted, any hints on jetting, I got Main Jets sizes 125, 130 and 135, I think I'll put in the 130's and richen up pilot etc screws.

Does anyone have a non-popping hitachi carbs setup with a "mildish" cam + high compression pistons and a free flow exhaust?
 

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I do. 10.6:1 pistons, Web cams, ported, Mac header, Cone Engineering muffler, stock air box and filter, Hitachi's. My air screw is at 2 3/4 turns out from bottom, needles shimmed 1mm, main jets up one size from XV920R stock sizes. You're experience may vary...
 
When on the dyno the CO reading was pretty good, 4 to 5%. That was also with an IgniTech ignition.
 
Thinking about the paint pattern on the tank and when I sanded the tank it actually came out pretty sweet "brushed" look.
Maybe I will reverse the colors and have the middle brushed and stripes where the tapes are now.

Check out also the badass Led light straight from China! even more BAD-ASS than Ichiban moto (not really but I like it)
 

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Did some weight calculations, here's what I achieved so far:

Item New Old Saving
FrontWheel 11,1 13,5 2,4 Kg
RearWheel 9,6 14,6 5,0 Kg
Rear Brake 1 2,2 1,2 Kg
ChainCover 0 6,1 6,1 Kg
Center Stand 0 1,6 1,6 Kg
Silencers 2,2 7,4 5,2 Kg
Exhaust 2,1 2,5 0,4 Kg
Front-End 15,5 23 7,5 Kg
Tank 3,3 5,3 2,0 Kg
Seat 2,1 4,0 1,9 Kg
RearSubrframe 2,8 7,1 4,3 Kg
Battery 0,6 6,4 5,8 Kg
Frame 10 10 0 Kg
Rear Swingarm 7,1 7,1 0 Kg

TOTAL 49,7 87,3 43,4 Kg

These are actual measurements using a "hyperaccurate" fisching scale.
Biggest savings so far are the Battery and front-end, also the stock rear subframe system is quite bulky as well as the stock silencers.
Some additions still to come such as the footpegs rear fender etc.
 

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LazyOx said:
Got the pistons installed.
Cam timing was actually pretty easy, check instructions here http://www.tr1.de/pages/technics_linda.php?techidx=14
At least on paper, have not yet started her up properly as the carbs need to be re-jetted, any hints on jetting, I got Main Jets sizes 125, 130 and 135, I think I'll put in the 130's and richen up pilot etc screws.

Does anyone have a non-popping hitachi carbs setup with a "mildish" cam + high compression pistons and a free flow exhaust?
Are those the pistons I designed?
 
The piston specs here:
http://bigtwins.co/arias/Arias_Specs.pdf

Not sure Who designed them, it was not me for sure.

They fit nicely on my -81 TR1 but have not yet fired her up properly, so far looks really good.
Hats off to you Hollywood if it's your work.
 
LazyOx said:
The piston specs here:
http://bigtwins.co/arias/Arias_Specs.pdf

Not sure Who designed them, it was not me for sure.

They fit nicely on my -81 TR1 but have not yet fired her up properly, so far looks really good.
Hats off to you Hollywood if it's your work.
Ya those are my design. Big twins is doing a good job selling them and is really into viragos. He helped out with the original design. Make sure your timing is right at install.
 
...Progress....
Got the tank and seat plate painted.
Also wheels painted.
Rear wheel from a suzuki gsxf and front from a 1200 bandit.
Waiting for the rear sprocket holder from my machinist who is grinding about 10mm off to get the sprocket to align with the front sprocket +wheel spacers to front and rear, hope they fit.
 

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LazyOx said:
Tested also that if my "extra Bandit 2002 front wheel would fit on the 2010 R6 front end and the answer is YES! and no.

actually the brakes and disks seem to align nicely, but a small problem is that the axle on the R6 is 22mm and the Bearings on the Bandit front wheel are d20mm.

Solution: put in d22 D47 bearings to the Bandit wheel, or that's the plan at least.

Need to get the beaaarings and test this in practise.
Also will need to get a 22mm hub center pipe thingy machnined or possibly use a regular R6 one if it's the same lenght as a Bandit one, who knows I might be lucky?

If you find that bearing let me know the source. I have an FZ6 wheel with the same issue and no common bearing makes the 22mm axle work. The next step is to cut the wheel to accept the R6 bearings, then still need another 1.5mm added to each spacer.
 
Yep got the d22-D47 bearings from a local shop.
They used to have it listed on their website http://www.allright.eu/
But now they changed the site lay-out and I cannot find it anymore.

The Bearing is an allballs (motocross) bearing, I will need to see if I can find the prod number in my files (trashcan of my not so tidy mancave)
 
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