73 TX650, this will take a while.....

D

dannywrx88

Been Around the Block
hi guys,

been on here for a while now so i figured i should put up some pics of my build.
basically the plan is to cafe with the usual specs/trimmings,
this is what i started with.


currently ive got a FB seat cowl but now im abit worried about the paint or FB cracking so im thinking of going to aluminium.. i had a mate from work weld some brackets on for me and im 99% finished on the battery tray.

any tip or advice would be greatly appreciated, look forward to your comments.
 

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If it wouldn't cost so much to get there, I'd send you a 19" front shouldered alloy rim to match your rear. I'm in Canada - would likely be easier for you to find one there.

Nice start for a bike - on another note, what is that car in the pic?
 
Tim said:
If it wouldn't cost so much to get there, I'd send you a 19" front shouldered alloy rim to match your rear. I'm in Canada - would likely be easier for you to find one there.

Nice start for a bike - on another note, what is that car in the pic?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the offer mate, it would def cost an arm and a leg,

It's a beetle with a stroker kit and Porsche bits n pieces, it was a guys I used to work with, it was Abit of an animal


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This was after I took all the standard tabs off,
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And this is with the seat mounting plate has been mounted to the new brackets I had welded on, I was still working on the battery tray at this point, I had to counter sink the bolt heads with a dygrinder bit on the old dremel so the seat cowl would sit flush
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With the muffler mocked up on the standard header, I want more of an up sweep on the muffler so looks like new headers are going to be the best bet, that and the standards are abit rough.....

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So no real work on the bike lately, I'm Hopin to get some more done on the battery tray and tail light tomorrow, but today was busy getting these new additions set up
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Got a little bit done today, got the battery tray 90% in and the battery cradle half done, holes drilled and tapped in the aloy angle, but hit a snag when I kept frying drill bits trying to get through the SS sheet, first few were fine but when I was doing one side they just kept cooking which I thought was weird..
so I'll head down to Bunnings and get some of the cobalt ones which are supposed to be the business...
fingers crossed I can have the battery cradle sorted tomorrow,
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You need to go way slower going through stainless, some cutting fluid wont do any harm either..
 
datadavid said:
You need to go way slower going through stainless, some cutting fluid wont do any harm either..
Click to expand...

Thanks mate, ended up getting a cobalt but but it still burnt out on that spot but went through like butter in other parts, I had the drill press set to about half speed which was rnd the 1300 rpm speed... Still too fast??


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I would need to know the diameter of the drill bit..
But around 6-8mm?
If you want to keep your drills i would suggest you stay around 4-700 rpm, and dont push-let the drillbit do the work!
And cutting fluid/compound, use that!
Some guys regrind concrete drills if they need to drill a lot of stainless, the tips are ultra hard.
 
datadavid said:
I would need to know the diameter of the drill bit..
But around 6-8mm?
If you want to keep your drills i would suggest you stay around 4-700 rpm, and dont push-let the drillbit do the work!
And cutting fluid/compound, use that!
Some guys regrind concrete drills if they need to drill a lot of stainless, the tips are ultra hard.
Click to expand...

Spot on mate, 6mm but ran a 3mm pilot,
So take the fins off a masonry bit? And also drop the speed waaaaay down



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dannywrx88 said:
Spot on mate, 6mm but ran a 3mm pilot,
So take the fins off a masonry bit? And also drop the speed waaaaay down



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Click to expand...
I would suspect you need to grind the bits like steel drills are ground.. very different profiles!
 
datadavid said:
I would suspect you need to grind the bits like steel drills are ground.. very different profiles!
Click to expand...

The batter tray 2.0 is going to be done in aluminum so shouldn't have a problem with the bits then


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So I'm not an expert but I'd say that the tolerance for differences between sides wasn't this big from factory...
Anyone have some suggestions? Currently I'm thinking of cutting them off then making my own out of 3mm mild steel and welding them on...
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Tolerances can be quite big from the factory, those welds look factory enough. Often there's a reason why some bikes look like they do, but with modern methods you could definitely make something more practical/appropriate. Just make sure it's good and strong.
 
FerousBastard said:
Tolerances can be quite big from the factory, those welds look factory enough. Often there's a reason why some bikes look like they do, but with modern methods you could definitely make something more practical/appropriate. Just make sure it's good and strong.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, I'll have to take a closer look at it and work out what I'm going to do


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I'm sure the Shock point plates can be made better or even filled in some more.
In regards to the tolerances, that's the way it's supposed to be. Left chock plates have to be off set more to the left and not sitting right under the frame tube like the one on the right side.
(I have a 73 as well BTW)
 
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