Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
Ok guys. I just picked up my Grandfather's old motorcycle. Its a 74 Cb550. Im not sure how to tell if it has a sub model like "four". It was last registered in 96' so I am assuming that was the last time it was running although I remember my grandfather mentioning it just needed a carb cleaning. The bike appears to be mostly complete and i can hear the engine turn as I slowly engage the kick start so i know the engine isn't seized. I can see it has some pipes that dont look stock however im unsure if a reject was accomplished along with it. Also it seems to be that the connection between the carbs and air box is missing however i thinking of going with the cliche pod filters to suit the cafe look I will be going for.
Thats what I have got for now. I will be rebuilding the carbs and cleaning out the cylinders first to see if i can get it started. While I have things open, does anyone have suggestions as to what can be done to tighten performance? Im not looking to make this a fast bike but I don't want to waste my time turning wrenches and not do all that can be done to restore original performance.
So what I need is guidance. I can take anything apart and put it back together but once I start needing a micrometer I'll start asking many more questions. So Im ready for any input you guys have. This bike has sentimental value to me so I will not be abandoning this project. by the time you read this I will likely have the carbs removed. Thanks for all of your help in advance.
I would pull and clean the carbs, throw in a new battery, change the oil, and fire it up. Do not pull that motor apart without knowing what you're doing, esp. since it (likely) has sentimental value. Once you get it running, clean up the cosmetics and learn everything you can about the normal maintenance and operations of that bike. Then you can start "building a café"
i just want to blow out the cylinders before i try to start the motor. i would hate for 20 years of dirt to start getting thrown around in there. But i will take your advice and clean the carbs, add the oil and battery and then try to start it up. Glad to have help so quickly. thanks guys.
when you go to start the motor, leave the plug wires off and let the oil pump prime and send oil everywhere......not healthy for an older motor to start dry essentially.
But I bet once the carbs are cleaned, you have clean fuel, fresh oil, fresh plugs, and a good battery that it will fire right up
I have good results soaking dirty carbs in Pine-Sol for a day or so. Couple of gallon jugs from Wal Mart and mix 1:1 with hot water and put em in a plastic container with a cover. I also strap a little vibrating sander to the top to help agitate the grime out. I also take everything apart and put them in labeled baggies with holes in them to keep everything together.
Might want to heat up the case with a heat lamp before you drain the oil, will help loosen up the sludge.
Soaking the carbs is a good idea, but on its own will not be sufficient. You must disassemble them 100%. It is vital to remove the emulsion tubes!! Do not buy carb rebuild kits. Buy bowl and cover gaskets separately. It is unlikely you will need any hard parts, but if you do use factory parts only - do not use aftermarket!!! Take them apart one by one and keep all the parts from each carb together in a plastic bag - there are often very subtle differences between the individual carbs usually related to the choke/enrichers and throttle linkage so keep an eye out - they can be hard to figure out or overlooked when going back together. Be advised that most of the internal parts are brass, and require great care to remove. You have only your first shot at removing any part without damage, so make it count. Having the exact correct tool is all important. Many carbs require several different flat blade screwdrivers, and I strongly recommend you embrace the notion of spending any time needed grinding blades to obtain the EXACT perfect fit if you have jets inside deep wells. Damaging the screwdriver slot in such a jet can mean throwing out the body and finding a replacement so be careful! Once you get them completely apart you can soak the bare bodies and bowls and top covers if you wish - there is not much need for soaking anything else. Get a couple of cans of carb cleaner and meticulously and methodically go through every passageway and see that you can produce a clean defined stream of carb cleaner from every one. It pays to learn the purpose of all the passageways so you can be sure that all are able to do what they are supposed to. You can clean all the small parts and jets by hand with the carb cleaner - again be sure to be able to produce a clean defined jet of carb cleaner through all jets and orifices. Not much to putting them back together aside from setting the float levels and not over tightening anything.
Getting your carbs back right is not especially hard, but does take a little time especially if you are inexperienced. The most important thing is to be super determined to be absolutely thorough because once back together, you want to be able to eliminate the carbs from troubleshooting any problems you encounter.
I also suggest you get a new stock air filter and new inlet manifolds to reconnect the factory airbox. Probably cheaper than pods, and you will have a vastly easier time getting it running well. Once it is running well, you will have a much easier time making any changes you want.
Those carbs don't look bad at all considering! Good luck!
Place a heat source under the engine and warm up that old oil before draining. I used a hot quartz shop light.
Before you crank her over.
Spray the plugs w pentrant and let it soak in before breaking them loose. Add a couple drops of oil in the cylinders, and squirt some in the valve inspection holes. To coat cam, chain, tappets, valves and such. Little oil on the advancer...as best you can.
So things arent bone dry, while turning her over & waiting for oil pump to start do its job.
Got some carb cleaning and will be soaking the carbs tomorrow. Im taking advice from above and not buying entire rebuilt kits but rather just the two gaskets for each carb. Does everyone agree with this?
Also, I use carb-medic. Stuff works miracles in minutes.
jpmobius said:
Be advised that most of the internal parts are brass, and require great care to remove. You have only your first shot at removing any part without damage, so make it count. Having the exact correct tool is all important. Many carbs require several different flat blade screwdrivers, and I strongly recommend you embrace the notion of spending any time needed grinding blades to obtain the EXACT perfect fit if you have jets inside deep wells.
There is a cleaner called "The Works" or something like that at the dollar store that will remove a lot of that rust. Put it in a plastic container and soak the smaller parts. Big parts soak paper towels and wrap them.
Lowes > gallon Zep commercial degreaser > garden center > little top pump sprayer comes in green or red no wand > fill 50/50 Zep water 100% Zep on motor is fine > do not presoak just spray the degreaser on the dry bike and don't leave a drop in the sprayer... spray everything til soaked > hose off and power wash.
Do this and save hours of rubbing, you can do that to yer wife or who ever you can catch
When I clean carbs I use a small container for each one to put the parts in as I go so I don't mix them up or lose them. What I find works well is to soak the jets in carb cleaner overnight the use the aerosal cleaner and blast the now losened crud out. Also, she you think they are all cleaned, do it all again just to make sure. On little bit of crap can cause you to go nuts trying to figure out why one cylinder runs bad or leaks fuel etc. Good luck. It should be s good bike after some elbow grease is applied.
Safety first!! whenever you have a spray can in hand have good coverage safety glasses on your face... should be the first thing you do when you walk in the shop/garage anyway.
Also, I see my bike has a start button on it but i dont see a starter. Perhaps my bike doesnt have a traditional cylindrical shaped starter and I am just not noticing it. Can anybody tell me the location?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.