A CB360 Build

Next to the key switch off the harness are two wires : light green/red and green/red. Anyone know what these go to? My manual seems to show dead ends...

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On a 74' they aren't used, part of the neutral lockout circuit on later models. Leave them as is.
 
I think I've figured out how to mount my battery. Going to do a POC today and see if it will work. Been thinking about a solution quite a bit and frustration comes with wanting to keep things looking clean while obviously making the right choices for stability and longevity. Trick with powdercoating seems to be finding the way to properly ground things, in this case my updated regulator/rectifier. Shop that did my coating was incredible with the prep and didn't paint over any of the threads, but that doesn't help me in this instance.
 
Use 'star' lockwashers and dilectric grease to prevent corrosion.
Next 'cafe' I do is going to have battery cantilevered off centerstand mounts 8)
 
Good tip. Will do for sure.

Latest saga - I can't get my front brake cable to reach. The tolerance on the new pads is so little that I can't pull enough to attach. Wheel spins freely when brake is not engaged. Any off experience solutions out there?

I'm aligned to spec...

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Latest direction I'm leaning on exhaust is using CL360 pipes. Friend had an extra set and passed them my way for free. Trouble is I need holder clamp (part numbers 14 and 15 below). If anyone has these handy I can paypal immediately. There's zero on eBay or elsewhere that I can dig up... Any help appreciated!
 

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You may have to re-allign the splines on both brake camshafts to get the cable to fit,as long as your sure it's the correct cable..; make sure you match both splines exactly the same from that reference 'dot' on each shaft.
 
Was able to just barely pull the cable to attach with a pliers. It's tight now, but the wheel spins. I am curious how it behaves in motion. May be a trial and error thing. Other focuses at the moment include getting my battery box welded and in and finishing the wiring. Sticky throttle tube (cable snaps fine, OEM tube is crap) was giving me trouble. I sanded it down slightly to get smoother action, but need to reinstall yet.
 
If the wheel spins the cable can't be 'too short'
It would be locked solid if inner was too short or outer too long
Pretty sure you need to set up linkage. How much lever travel do you have?
 
Thanks PJ, I'll post a video of the lever travel this weekend. It actually seems quite good but I'll let you be the judge.

Sticky throttle tube has been fixed (so it seems) w some 150 grit and Super Lube. All cables are lubed and installed. All electrical on the front end is set and headlight is on! I have no dashboard at the moment (signals, indicators, tach/speedo) but those will come in the future.

Battery box is in the process of being welded. Then just waiting on my tank and seat in the coming weeks.

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Shout out to NA3S for finding me the CL360 exhaust brackets I needed.
Once those arrive next week I will be getting the header pipes mounted up and finally make a call on mufflers.
I currently have exhaust sets from a CB360, a CL360 and a CJ360. Seems unnecessary... ::)
 
I think the CL looks best. Not fond of the CJ system, hangs too low and makes you fall off ;)
 
I actually went through the process of sanding off all the rust / pitting and then blacking out the collector and brackets on the CJ set. I'll consider worthwhile as a workout... because now I have a non-OEM set worth less money. Cool.
 
Headlight is from Wrenchmonkees. Brackets are an eBay find (super common). Bolts are black Allen cap from Home Depot.


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Springing back a bit hard but should be OK. I would re-set shoes against drum.
Easiest way I've found to do it is set 'main' shoe using cable adjuster so it just drags when turning wheel then use an adjustable wrench on secondary lever to move it until drag about doubles (usually just possible to turn wheel)
Adjust link rod for arm to be in same position, back off cable adjuster and test.
It's easier to do than actually explain ::)
Both shoes should bed in for about 2~300 miles
 
Oddly my manual doesn't seem to make mention of torque specs on the exhaust nuts coming off the head. Anyone have these readily available?

A few pics of progress to come.
 
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