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The problem with the Bing carbs on my bike is that they are the pre-cv ticklers and they are a nightmare. No choke and super cold natured. I'm putting a 750 top end on from a 75/6, so i know stock won't work anyway. Tim put vm's on his 75/6 and i can't remember his reasoning. Hopefully he will chime in.
The problem with the Bing carbs on my bike is that they are the pre-cv ticklers and they are a nightmare. No choke and super cold natured. I'm putting a 750 top end on from a 75/6, so i know stock won't work anyway. Tim put vm's on his 75/6 and i can't remember his reasoning. Hopefully he will chime in.
I know that for some reason there are a thousand or so ADVrider inmates with R series BMWs - you might check there for writeups, if you haven't - they tend to be about as detail-oriented as one could hope for, and you can ask BMW hackjob questions there without getting screamed at.
I put the VM's on mine mainly because I had them on my XS650 and liked them Wanted a little more responsiveness out of the BMW. My Bings were fine - in hindsight I should have probably left well enough alone as I haven't gotten the VM's tuned quite right just yet, but that will come.
First I have to take them back off and install some vacuum barbs so I can sync them. Need to drill and tap the carbs. I have a set of Motion Pro vacuum gauge tubes which I'll use, and when I'm not using them I'll just put short 6mm bolts in the holes in the carbs to keep them sealed.
Main problem I haven't sorted with the VM's is the left side air screw adjustment. It's facing the engine and is very tight. A thumbscrew adjustment would be way better. Need to find the right tool to do the adjustment with.
Main problem I haven't sorted with the VM's is the left side air screw adjustment. It's facing the engine and is very tight. A thumbscrew adjustment would be way better. Need to find the right tool to do the adjustment with.
Good info Tim. I'm definitely swapping carburetors as I already have the Mikuni's. Should be good.
Got some stuff done today. Of course the drive shaft was pressed apart and the bearings and seals pulled from the swinger. All I have to do is remove the races, and the parts are getting blasted and powdered. Got the transmission soda blasted today. It will be getting new seals all around and a new clutch. Also started media blasting a lot of the corroded old parts to get ready for powder as well. Scored a set of jugs and pistons that are freshly honed but missed the heads by $10. Dammit. Anyway, the search goes on.
You've got a little while. That trip is planned for next spring/summer. This bike however, barring any issues, will be ready by this summer. The biggest issue will be budget. I will use everything salvageable, but there are some parts that have to be purchased, and beemer parts are retarded expensive.
Heading back out today to do some work, thought I'd post some of yeterday's progress before I did. Polished out a few of the stock alloy pieces like the handlebar risers and the control levers to see how they would do, and they turned out like glass. Very good quality castings.
Also did some repairs to various parts that were cracked, broken, or deteriorated away from rust. Here is an example. These are the hooks on the battery box that hold the battery retainer straps. You can see where they had all but corroded away on a few of them from the rust in combination with the battery acid. TIG welder to the rescue. I built up the metal slowly on the thin parts with the welder and then ground them into shape. They're ready for powder now.
Before:
After
I did a lot more media blasting on engine covers, etc, I just forgot to take pictures. I'll get them today.
Yep, that's exactly how they work. And the top triple is nothing more than a flat piece of sheet metal. I'm going to pull the studs and replace them with no corroded ones, but I think they turned out well. Thanks man! Chugging along.
They cleaned up amazing and having no holes on the top maked the polishing that much brighter. Show's why BMW parts cost more. Those castings are top notch. To be able to polish them and have 0 flaws means they were done right. I used to buy castings and that good of quality would be expensive. Glad ours just had to be good enough.
Cheers
Keep up the awsome work, can't wait to see this in person.
I've been blasting until I can't see straight. I got all of the motor covers blasted and they have been coated in ceramic 2k high heat paint. First time I've used it, but it did well.
And under primer and paint:
Good comparison:
Before
After:
Did some more polishing. Very gratifying with the nice castings and the level of corrosion and bringing them to this. All polished parts have been coated with Shark Hide.
Polished out the front hub cap after disassembling the front hub. Incredible looking IMO.
Painted the refurbished battery box with epoxy. Remember the crusty re-welded battery strap hooks? Much better.
Moving forward every day. I'm welding the center stand bottoms where they rotted out and waiting for my new replacement subframe. When those are in it will all be blasted, and then a huge pile of parts going out for black powder. I have lots of little pieces to order, but new heads, jugs, and pistons are en route. Also got a NOS tail light lense coming. On the lookout for some aluminum turn signals if anyone sees some. Till the next installment.
That I can help with. I picked up a set a while back hoping to put them on my /6, but alas the mounting shafts are different and I don't need the hassle of changing them all out. Let me dig them up and shoot some pics.
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Wanted a little more responsiveness out of the BMW. My Bings were fine - in hindsight I should have probably left well enough alone as I haven't gotten the VM's tuned quite right just yet, but that will come.
