Hydraulic Brake conversion for the CB200, lets make a kit!!??!!

Looks like its just a home made allow bracket to hold the caliper



and the caliper is off a 350,360,400f,etc
(next to my 400f caliper)
 
The Caliper doesn't float, so on the CB 360 and up, the bracket floats. It has a hinge and a spring loaded adjustment screw to keep the inside pad close to the rotor.

A fix bracket and a fixed caliper mean the brakes are going to not work as well. As the pads wear, the inside pad will be further away from the disk. To stop, the caliper not only has to push the outside pad in, it has to cause the bracket to bend so the inside pads applies pressure to the disk.

Makes for poor braking. A setup like that will probably brake as poorly, or worse with wear, as a poorly setup drum brake.
 

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Agreed. Ill probably swap it out for a cb100 drum setup at some point.
 
crazypj said:
I have a LOT of time on the mechanical disc from working at Honda dealers in the late 70's.
Everything is smaller than the 250/350/360/400/500/55 so it's going to need some dedicated brackets
I think it would be pretty simple if I had a caliper to copy, just thin down some 3/4" plate after drilling mounting hole and leave it long enough to mount whatever caliper you want
two questions...why was the review for this brake stellar when it came out and should we grease the internal mechanism? One more does the gasket thickness matter?
 
Yep, the internal parts need some grease but not completely packed.
When it's working right it isn't a bad brake, problem is, they are rarely working right.
They have issues with water running down cable and rusting up the mechanism, plus, the automatic adjusterusually needs manual resetting every few thousand miles
 
crazypj said:
Yep, the internal parts need some grease but not completely packed.
When it's working right it isn't a bad brake, problem is, they are rarely working right.
They have issues with water running down cable and rusting up the mechanism, plus, the automatic adjusterusually needs manual resetting every few thousand miles
we dropped ours in some Metal Rescue and it looks almost like new. I was expecting bad braking but was pleasanly surprised...feedback was very good. It stopped very well for having an additional 215 lbs added. Thank you!
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=190865916494

$(KGrHqJ,!mIE9I6wh-NCBPV+ikjZzw~~60_12.JPG


Bought this caliper and will be working on a mount that mimics the stock brake with a pivot.

Now all I need is a throttle tube with a kill switch. I plan to get rid of the stock cb125 because it has the front brake handle built in.
I will probable just put a small toggle switch on the headlight bucket hidden out of sight but still accessible.
 
diesel450 said:
Dave,

This looks promising. keep us posted as you progress.

Few hiccups already.

This is a caliper made for the left side. I could still mount it traditionall in front of the fork and just make the bracket to work Or I coul mount it behin the fork and keep it nice and tight.

Caliper only allows for a disc with .200" thickness so 20/100 of an inch.

Plus the pads are a tad small for the disc. Should still have stopping power.

I plan to design my bracket to pivot just like the stock that way I will get even wear on the pads.
 
In the process of measuring my stock brake to get my bracket position dimensions I had a great idea.

I am designing a custom piece with a hydraulic piston that adapts to the stock pivot arm and uses stock pads.
In theory and design so far it should work. Its just a matter of finding a good master cylinder on the bars to run it.
Design is simple an theory behind a hydraulic brake is very basic so this should work

Not sure if I will try to sell these yet. I will have my prototype done soon and I want to do thorough testing and do legal research on my liability of selling these.

If they work though I would love to get them on the market for a direcct bolt on fix using the existing brake pads and pivot arm.
 
You don't even want to think about liability issues. Your attorney and insurance carrier will cut you off at the knees.

0.2" sounds really thin but it's 5mm and that's all the disks are on my bike. Modern 5mm disks should be fine.

Caliper behind the fork leg is a better idea than in front.
 
I am more than likely not using that caliper I got. Just requires a disc that is too thin. I am confident in my design to retrofit a new plate and piston setup to my original pivot arm but like you said liability would be bad so I will more than likely not sell them.
 
did a conversion on my girl's cb200. photobucket is being a bitch with bandwidth, so you'll have to wait a couple days. For now:

http://outsidersnl.wordpress.com/2013/04/21/jenes-cb200-outsiders-2-2/

Also did a hydraulic clutch on it, because its more symetrical at the bars. And because i can :p
 
Hey!

You can find pics of the build on here. Search in google "cb200 tracker dotheton" to find it easy. You can also mail us if you want special pics. Contact thru facebook is preferred : facebook.com/outsidersmotorcycles

Thnx!
 
Seems like this topic comes and goes. Did anyone make progress on putting a kit together. My front brake is shot so I'd much rather my effort go towards a new set up.
 
How about hacking off the original mechanism from arm and bolting on a clutch slave cylinder?
You could probably do the cutting so original pads are still used
 
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