CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.

Mine has one RH and one LH because I used a Busa rear set, which uses an LH thread and it was one less linkage part I needed to buy. I doubt you'll need them to be opposite as long as there is a way to attach both ends of the linkage without having to thread on the rod. You'll lose adjustment in the rod length, though. I'm not sure how well the M6 threaded rod will do. I'm using M5 threaded rod for mine and it wants to flex and bend, which makes makes shifting not so good. I don't if the M6 will be much stiffer. The rod you get from Fast From the Past and others is much thicker. I'm trying to switch mine out as soon as I can find an M5 end (which has not been easy).
 
Thanks - That helps a lot. I see how the right/left thread would help me with adjustability. I was thinking I would measure/ cut/ tweak/ and leave it. If that's not a realistic scenario (and it might not be) I may just grab the linkages from DCC (they won't cost any more after shipping) though I don't think they are any different as they are cut to length. I guess if you have threaded rod and it switches to counter threaded rod in the middle then you can still put RH/LH on each end and cut it to length. I don't know - I may be talking out of my ass - I usually think with my hands and don't have any bolts/ nuts laying around to play with to work this out. No matter, I'll be home in a few weeks and can sort it all out there.

I was going to sheath the threaded rod in copper tube, but that won't give me any extra rigidity, so who knows. Maybe I could beef up the rod a bit - there are a couple of options out there.

Any lines on the exhaust question? Are there rubber sleeves that make the slide on pipes fit better? Mine are looser than anyone would think was reasonable.
 
Cursh said:
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my materials and processes class is way to boring to stay awake through without some extra stimuli so I draw. This is what I'm going for, but we shall see.

Very attractive.
 
Thanks! its amazing what gets one in a two hour materials and processes lecture.

At this point I'm short an ignition coil and a gas tank...

I'm closer to getting getting this guy back on the road. I have the cash in the bike bank, I'm just not sure how to spend it. I'm thinking of having the dents in the 450 tank professionally removed and a solid base color added so that I can hand paint the graphics. I need to reseal it because the old seal peeled off on the trip out (I'm sure the temps in the utility trailer got above 120 on the I-10 and the tank was dry. - maybe that's not why it peeled, but it feels like the reason it did.)

Anyway - Arizona is hot and work is work, and time is scarce (and honestly, I'm a month and a half away from being outside for more than an hour at a time, which bums me out)
 
XT600 coils are an easy swap. Same mounting points, but use spade connectors instead of bullet.
 
Sonreir said:
... but use spade connectors instead of bullet.
Isn't it better to swap out bullets for spades anyway? Not the biggest fan of bullets. I don't trust them to make good connections.
 
I don't really have a preference, but in my experience the bullets seem to grip a bit better.

The molded plastic connectors with spades are awesome, though.
 
Thanks guys. I'll check them out. i finally got my little outdoor work bench set up1 and the evenings are starting to dip below 100 degrees in the shade. Should be ready to start putting things right again in the next few weeks.

my crappy set up:

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which is a marked improvement over my last set up:

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which was a huge improvement over having to bring everything inside my security door before heading upstairs to grab a new beer/take a shit. (Back before I owned the box)


1) still over grass, so I'll have to become much better at not dropping small shite or find a ground pad to put down
 
Cursh said:
Thanks guys. I'll check them out. i finally got my little outdoor work bench set up1 and the evenings are starting to dip below 100 degrees in the shade. Should be ready to start putting things right again in the next few weeks.

In the next few weeks I should be staring down the barrel of 6 months of winter and an unheated garage filled with junk I don't want to touch until spring.
 
my 9 month spring is really the benefit of living in Phoenix. If I miss the winter I can just head north 2 hours to flag staff and go snow surfing.
 
When the going gets tough, the tough end up spending 60 hour weeks at work, and paying for cross continent holiday plane tickets for their families instead of buying the few cheap as shit parts needed to get this thing back on the road: I swear though, that every time I do the math on this, it gets more expensive:

OEM gas cap latch: $50
Tank Sealer: $30
4 Gallons of Apple Cider Vinegar: $17
Paint: $30
clear coat at a shop (because this guy doesn't have access to a clean place to spray or a compressor): $???
Ignition Coils $50
Spark Plug Wires (totally optional, could franken rob the wires off the factory coils) $20
Tank of gas from the ARCO down the block: $9

bleh. At this point the body work is meh, but I'm not a body man, and I'm done staring at this thing in the yard. next time I'll pay someone else to do it and let it just be good. This time, Wintery Phoenix calls, and I can't let this turn into a year long hiatus . . . / I have my eyes set on a $1500 build idea . . . maybe this guy is my meal ticket out of here. (no hate CB, you are just heavy, old, cranky, and impossible to find parts for.)

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"Progress" to date. Major dents "mostly" filled (you can see how true that is from this shitty shot)
couple coats of primer
seat pan shaved and hand rolled to fit with CB450 tank
foam "cut" don't love it though. Rear hump part is just beyond where I plan to short chop the bike. I'm hoping to hide the foam butchery with some 1/4" shipping foam between the leather and the factory foam . . . we will see.

cheers.

Anyone need a factory original seat? I was smart enough to cut up a shredded one, instead of the pristine example I was riding around on in my past life.
 
I've got a dumb question before I hook everything up . . . is the left point (when looking at the points) for the left ignition coil?

I took everything off and didn't snap a picture. . . . ::)

The other (less dumb) question is wether these new yamaha coils need to have the condenser hooked up (same as the OEM coils) (I wired the old leads up to snap into the new coils so that I can connect everything, but I'm not sure if I need to . . .

The other option is just popping the stator cover off and going through the correct motions to figure this out on my own, but if anyone wants to save me the time . . . much appreciated.

(this also means that my tank has been patched, sealed, and is in the process of getting painted: I also have new yamaha coils installed (but obviously not wired.)
 
Thanks for the help Sonreir:

I had a pic of the blue point attaching to the condenser side of the bike, which is the right side. Never broke into the points. plugged everything in and she fired right up. Now to fix a few little things. (I want to note that there is evidence on the webz of these colors being reversed on some CB360s, so if you are reading this, don't assume that what I wrote here is correct for your bike.)
 
I could use some help. The CB450 tank puts the petcock right on top of the left carb. It works fine turned in about 50 degrees, which makes switching the thing on a bit awkward. Are there any slimmer petcocks out there? The thing that hits the carb is the split outlet off to the side.

I really do live in an extreme climate. The JB weld i used to patch the choke switch together broke, so I removed the butterfly valve. It doesn't get cold enough for me to need it and I can always make a new choke tie (whatever connects the two carbs there) from scraps at TechShop. Anyway. I plugged everything in and strapped everything on; gave the battery a good two day charge after topping the cells off with distilled water and the bike fired right up. I rode it around the block a few times and snapped some photos. I think I need to replace all of the cables.

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The forks are way past due for a rebuild. Are there any springs that I should consider swapping in when I'm in there?
 
Ooh I'm paying attention to this one; and any word about ride quality too. I've heard a full race tech spring and damper swap makes a stiff ride.
 
Duchat said:
Ooh I'm paying attention to this one; and any word about ride quality too. I've heard a full race tech spring and damper swap makes a stiff ride.

Thanks. =)

I think I'll just rebuild the forks with the existing springs. Seems like race tech springs would make this thing even less tracker than it already is.
 
Cursh said:
Thanks. =)

I think I'll just rebuild the forks with the existing springs. Seems like race tech springs would make this thing even less tracker than it already is.
I said that I had heard that. I would also love to hear from some people that have made the plunge. It's an expensive upgrade and you'll never get any of it back when you sell so you better enjoy it.
 
quick read through the thread and I find a bike in 3 separate stages and a couch bought to recover a seat. fing great man! keep it rolling on
 
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