Another 750 Four.

Did a quick mockup of a few things to make sure everything would clear. Going to swap out those rearsets with something else. They feel a little cheap to me, and I need something indexable so that I can run the tie rod under the lever. Also got my 550 swingarm in, so that will be going to the coater with the frame. Found some good rust spots on the wheels, so the rims and hubs will be getting sprayed as well and I'll just lace up some new spokes.

Side note: While cleaning the frame up, I found this little gem...
Looks like some additional welding will be in order.
 

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barnabasantioch said:
Did a quick mockup of a few things to make sure everything would clear. Going to swap out those rearsets with something else. They feel a little cheap to me, and I need something indexable so that I can run the tie rod under the lever. Also got my 550 swingarm in, so that will be going to the coater with the frame. Found some good rust spots on the wheels, so the rims and hubs will be getting sprayed as well and I'll just lace up some new spokes.

Side note: While cleaning the frame up, I found this little gem...
Looks like some additional welding will be in order.
I know someone who makes 360° indexable sets.

brake%20side%20lever%20and%20linkage5_zpstcnvamqw.jpg
 
Decided to do a quick mock up of the front end (because that's how I tend to uncover more issues) and I was having a ridiculous time trying to remove my fork tubes. Quickly discovered why...


Finally got them out and did a quick setup. Looks like new tubes are now in the "budget"
 

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I'm looking to replace my swingarm bushings once everything is returned from powder coating. Are the bronze bushings significantly superior to the OEM plastic ones? An extra $20 isn't going to break the bank, but I want to make sure I'm not getting them just for the sake of having the more expensive part. Is there any added benefit?
 
Decided to start polishing up some bits while everything else is at the coater. Fork legs were too far gone, and I haven't been able to find a decent pair online for a good price, so I ordered up some Eastwood 2K satin black chassis paint and went to town because I don't have the patience to send anything else to be powdered. Not cheap, but worthwhile. Also tried to match the lower tree to the after market upper tree as best I could with VHT aluminum and some clear coat. Rebuilt the forks while everything was apart with new seals and some progressive springs. Threw everything back together with the new fork tubes and the headlight I just received from DCC.

I'm thinking I'll have to research a new headlight bracket. I had to reverse mount this one to reach the 5 1/2 inch headlight, and it seems to stick out too far for its size.

This pretty much brings me to a grinding hault until I get my frame and/or engine back.
 

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Frame and other goodies back from the powder coater today.

Also received my new harness from Sparck. It's a little less overwhelming than the old one, with far less speaker wire.
 

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About to place an order for a couple of Shinko 230s. My plan was to run 110/90 - 19 on the front and 120/90 - 18 in the rear.
I've heard that performance and handling would be better if I go down to a 100/90 front and 110/90 rear, but I feel that makes them look anemic. I can handle a slight dip in performance as long as I'm not creating a safety concern. I'm sure plenty of people out here have 2 cents to contribute to this topic. :D
 
Threw some new all balls bearings in my front and rear hubs, as well as new tapered bearings on my steering stem. Put the new bushings in my 550 swingarm and when I mounted it up it was a direct swap. No spacers necessary. Trued the wheels by using some advanced technology. :)
 

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Engine dressed up. Going to let it cure for a week, then I'll consider sanding the fins. Hoping to drop the frame on it soon.
 

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I've spent many hours cleaning, and re-sprayng a few engines, never had the bottle to sand the fins though.
 
:eek: I sanded mine before assembly with an orbital and 200 worked perfect.
 

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Tune-A-Fish said:
:eek: I sanded mine before assembly with an orbital and 200 worked perfect.

That's a good lookin' engine, Tune. Did you have to cure it before sanding? I've read that it needs to heat to 200+ degrees to cure properly, but I don't forsee being able to fire it up for some time.
 
Getting a little ahead of myself, but I wanted to test the rearset position to make sure that my "bolt on" bracket solution was actually that. Doesn't look like I'll be that fortunate. I'd say a comfortable riding position would put my brake pedal at about 130 degrees, which is exactly where it intersects with my spline. Otherwise, I like where the rearsets are positioned. I'm thinking I'll have to trim back my spindle and make some additional frame mods where the spindle inserts to get the rearsets to clear. I'm open to simpler alternatives.
 

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Finished sanding the fins and buttoned up a few other odds and ends. Had to source a new oil sensor cap from some place in Japan.
Had a friend over, so we did the drop.
 

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