1982 Honda CB 900f low charge

i have one of my cb900 c with the cyclex system its only been in there 3k miles

we will see how it does long term in the heat
 
cxman said:
i have one of my cb900 c with the cyclex system its only been in there 3k miles

we will see how it does long term in the heat

More than a few have said the pipes running so close to the body makes the parts run a lot hotter. I wrapped my pipes this morning, though I havent installed the cyclex system yet; im waiting for it to arrive. Did you find it difficult to install?

Wrapped pipes:
 

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no its pretty straight forward

the heat comes from the enclosed housing and hot soaking when the motor is shut off that is when the temp

of the rotor and stator peak
 
Sonreir said:
On this bike, the rotor is made up of a couple of different parts. Inside the rotor is another winding of copper called the field coil. This is what the black and white wires connect to, when they pass through the alternator assembly. The field coil gets power from the regulator/rectifier and the way the R/R ensures you have good voltage is by varying the resistance on the white wire. When resistance is lower, more power passes into the field coil, resulting in stronger magnetism. Increased magnetism or increased revs means more electricity. As revs increase the R/R will increase resistance so that too much electricity is not pushed into the system.

On private messaging youve been helpful. I asked about wire gauges and you mentioned 14 gauge is appropriate on the stator to rectifier wires, and 16-18 elsewhere. so now...

On my new regulator, there are only two wires going from the regulator to the battery connector,
red and black.
However, on the OLD connector going from the battery to the connector into which the regular connector plugs in, there are THREE wires, black. red/white, and green. What gives? Do I eliminate one of those wires?
And which does the RED from the Regulator plug into and which does the BLACK from the regulator plug into? I hope this makes sense.
 
Is there a green wire somewhere else? I would be concerned that the R/R is not the correct unit for your bike if it doesn't have a green wire.
 
Sonreir said:
Is there a green wire somewhere else? I would be concerned that the R/R is not the correct unit for your bike if it doesn't have a green wire.

I should have said, its a completely new unit which replaces ALL of the charging system. Though it says Lucas, its the Cycle X system. See below:
 

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Sonreir said:
That's fine then. Two wires for new unit is what the diagram shows.

So, as someone advised, and Im just asking so others might benefit, the black wire (in the female connector from the battery) gets capped off and the RED from the Male connector on the new regulator goes to red and white , and the BLACK to GREEN with the black capped off?
 
If it were me, I'd bypass the harness.

From your new unit, ground the black wire and run the red wire to the battery positive terminal or the hot side of the solenoid.
 
Sonreir said:
If it were me, I'd bypass the harness.

From your new unit, ground the black wire and run the red wire to the battery positive terminal or the hot side of the solenoid.

Ok will do! Ground to the chassis i presume?
 
CrabsAndCylinders said:
Do fewer connections to the battery make for a better electrical system?

Not technically, no, but it makes for taking the battery in and out a lot easier.
 
Sonreir said:
Not technically, no, but it makes for taking the battery in and out a lot easier.

I just got gifted with a whole bunch of OEM color 18 gauge wire. In the event I have to splice wires into the Stator/Rotor thats coming tomorrow, is 18 gauge acceptable? I am hemorraging money and DO not want to spend more to get more wire than what I have.
 
Sonreir said:
Not technically, no, but it makes for taking the battery in and out a lot easier.


I just got gifted with a whole bunch of OEM color 18 gauge wire. In the event I have to splice wires into the Stator/Rotor thats coming tomorrow, is 18 gauge acceptable? I am hemorraging money and DO not want to spend more to get more wire than what I have.
 
Sonreir said:
Not the yellow wires, but 18 gauge is good for the others. 14 for the yellows.

i put the system in. At Idle im at 12.4 12.5. At 4k rpm im at 13.5 and up

Is this acceptable? Also, if I put the headlight off (i detached it) things run a lot better. Not sure what kind the bulb exactly is, but its says H4 on it.
 
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