Cb360 Reassembly Help

So greater than 12 is good, 12 and lower is bad.

Thank you very much.

Also, engineer at work hasn't had a chance to check out the E ignition. When would you like me to send it back?
 
Well... in step two, you shouldn't have any voltage. If you do measure 12V, then you have a problem.

You can hang onto the electronic ignition for now. I had problems with the 350 unit. The 450 wasn't perfect either. I'm going back to the drawing board.
 
Been having a few problems with the carbs, I think.

Timing is spot on. But I cannot get the carb sync set, each carb is on total opposites sides of the vaccuum gauge (I am not sure if this matters but I figured It would be mentioned in case).

The bike will fire right up, and idles perfectly. When I twist the throttle at a certain point, the right cylinder will cut out entirely, or its like I am cutting out air flow entirely and the bike wants to die.

Any thoughts? Thank you.

Note: Another thing I noticed, but haven't taken the carbs off yet to inspect, is i think the idle adjustment knob (cable) is broken. It does absolutely nothing and can spin either way for as long as you care to turn it.
 
Just for the sake of your sanity, I'd double-check the ignition timing and also use a timing light to verify your ignition advance.

If those things check out, then you can go back to messing with the carbs. Full cut-out of a cylinder is going to be spark related or a clogged jet.

Carb sync is important, but that's more an issue of idle and slow-return-to-idle.
 
If it does turn out to be ignition advance (timing when the bike is revving correct?), how do I fix that?
 
cb360j said:
If it does turn out to be ignition advance (timing when the bike is revving correct?), how do I fix that?
Click to expand...

Rebuild or replace the advance mechanism, usually.
 
I had an SL350 that had that problem. The advancer was frozen in place and it would drop an entire cylinder at anything over 5,000 RPM.
 
Update:

Just for fun, I took the carbs off and opened them up and made sure all jets were clean.

Then I did what sonreir suggested and checked the timing advance. Now what is strange about this is, when the clamp is over the left plug wire the timing light does not fire. rev the engine, timing light is not firing nor is it advancing (obviously).

Put the clamp over the right plug wire, timing is dead on, timing advance is perfect. The light works.

What makes this super weird, is the left exhaust pipe gets hot immediately and the exhaust coming out of it is hot which indicates to me that it is in fact firing. And when I pull the plug, and check to see if the plug arcs against the engine it does, and when I checked the static timing it is spot on there. Does this make sense? Any ideas? Condenser not working correctly?


But.. the right side exhaust pipe takes forever to warm up, and the exhaust coming out is cold. Is this just because it is running rich?
 
That is a weird one...

Have you tried positioning the clamp in different places on the wire? Have you tried it with the plug out of the engine and held against metal so you can see the spark and the timing light at the some time?
 
Sonreir said:
That is a weird one...

Have you tried positioning the clamp in different places on the wire? Have you tried it with the plug out of the engine and held against metal so you can see the spark and the timing light at the some time?
Click to expand...

I tried it at two different places on the wire, I will try all over it tonight. I will also try a different timing light to make sure it isnt my brand new one that is just being jank.

And no, not at the same time I haven't.
 
cb360j said:
And no, not at the same time I haven't.
Click to expand...

Might be worth trying. I once saw a plug that would only spark when it was slightly away from the engine cases. Something about having the extra resistance caused it to fire.
 
Timing light inductive clamps are directional, If coil is wired 'backwards' you won't get a signal. Look for the arrow on clamp and try both directions
 
Hello everyone. My return to motorcycles after I’m not sure a how many month long haiatus due to hunting seasons has finally come. And once again, lots of really stupid questions to coming.

Finally went back to the garage today to get my bike I out of winter storage. Changed the oil, put fuel in the tank, checked the brake fluid, checked timing, checked valve timing/gap. Everything seemed fine.
Tried to start. No start. Pulled the plugs again, they were very black and greasy looking. I’m assuming from all the time sitting, idk.
But they were wet, no burnt fuel. Put the spark plugs next to the engine case and they’re sparking.

Should my first step Be to just go ahead and get new plugs?


Thank you for all the help
 
Definitely start with fresh plugs. Make sure your battery is fully charged.
 
New spark plugs got it back and running.

When its running, the left cylinder is running hot as it should. Right cylinder is cold, ran for about 10 minutes and the pipe on the right was still ok to touch.
Static timing says it is spot on.

Also, when i go to rev the engine. A little input of the throttle makes the engine want to die.

What next?
 
Make sure carbs are synced, points are adjusted correctly and the points aren’t grounding to the cover. Pull the right side plug, keep it in the plug wire and test for spark.
 
That seemed to easy yesterday. The bike runs wonderfully now. Only problem with running now, is when riding it acts a little strange occasionally. Example: I could be riding and the power would be amazing and the throttle linear. Then it will randomly want to bog down. Or ill be going and if i take my hand off the throttle the bike will die immediately. But at idle it runs perfectly.

Thank you Irk, I appreciate your help
 
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