1976 Honda CB360T - Build Thread (Update 10/1 S2000 START BUTTON AND VIDEO!!!)

Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Installed new tappet covers, changed the oil, and ran some seafoam through the bike today then took it out for about 10 minutes or so. I. Love. This. Bike.

Old tappet cover with blown gasket!
IMAG0946_zps78d98a5e.jpg


New chrome tappet cover:
IMAG0986_zps0e6a4fdf.jpg


This was one of my old tappet covers. No wonder it was leaking! No gasket AND it's not quite the right size.
IMAG0985_zpsbd940cef.jpg
 
1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

The lip that hold the o-ring breaks off. Common issue. Don't over tighten your new ones or they will break too.

The o- ring will keep them on, so just enough to compress the o-ring is enough.


Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Wish all top end leaks were that easy to fix.
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Did some work on the bike today. First step of adding the clubman bars and rear-sets. I really underestimated how involved of a project swapping bars, and doing it correctly, really is. It was 60* and sunny all day and I regret not going on a ride.

Last pic before removing everything:
IMAG0990_zps5015345b.jpg


Oh snap, here we go! Headlight, headlight bucket, turn signals, etc. etc. all removed:
IMAG0994_zps7802da66.jpg


Unplug all the wires so we can separate the bars from the wiring harness:
IMAG0995_zps4fb552c9.jpg


(Skip forward a bunch of pics. In the mean time, wifey brought us some pizza and beers, we BS'd quite a bunch, blah blah. Took a ton of measurements, test fit, etc., to make sure bars where in the perfect spot. Then we had to drill out the holes on the new bars to route the wiring through.)

For those of you who don't know, clubman bars are TOUGH to wire because of the 90* angle they have. You need to use a guide-wire and constantly fish the guide-wire through with each individual wire. Well, even getting that guide-wire through the first time is tough, so I threaded some nuts on a string and let gravity do it's thing. Easy peasy! Grab it, tie it onto the guide-wire, and we're off!

Here you can see nuts on a string. Giggity.
IMAG1002_zpsc05b7028.jpg


Guide-wire and LH controls:
IMAG1000_zpsd26c5283.jpg


Guide-wire and LH wires coming out of middle. This will eventually be re-shrinkwrapped and put back into the harness.
IMAG0999_zps5cc65f4b.jpg


IRWIN grips FTMFW!
IMAG1001_zps7df92c00.jpg


Controls back on, test fit on the bike. Will complete bars tomorrow most likely. Next up is rear sets!
IMAG1003_zps3cb50347.jpg
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Also, on those tappet covers, don't tighten them when the engine is warm. Extremely hard to get off in the future if you do.

I'm a little late to the party on this, but the three years Honda produce the 360T, and being an owner of a blue '75, they had three different colors of blue.

I could post a topic that clarifies this, but it's on another forum. Not sure how that would be received around here.

Google "CB360T colors" for the topic.
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

I can't find the post you're referring to. Care to post a link? It is odd how they used different "blues" for all the years. :)
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Does that mean we have to discriminate between the different shades of blue? ;D
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Matt,
Looks great. You and jason got some good work done!

Gary
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Worst cb650 ever said:
Does that mean we have to discriminate between the different shades of blue? ;D
;D ;D

gk45011 said:
Matt,
Looks great. You and jason got some good work done!

Gary
Yep, we sure did! Hopefully everything will be back together and rideable this weekend.
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Ah, yes, I did see that post. I wasn't sure if that's what you were referring to or not.
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Looks like you have a '75 side cover on a '76 bike to me.
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Nah, they're both off a 76. VIN verified and the paint under the emblems is a perfect 76 match, too. It just faded poorly.
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

$5 cable management.

IMAG1009_zps71c8c845.jpg


IMAG1008_zpsf85543da.jpg


It isn't highly visible anyways, but this replaces the OEM sheathing that I had to remove to thread the wires through the new bars.

-Matt
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Purchase story and eventual build thread!

Ok, so the wiring is still a mess from the handlebars, but I finally got around to doing the rear set install yesterday and today. Everything went pretty smoothly, although some small details took entirely too long to work around. This update walks through the Old School Speed CB360 Rear Set install. What works for me may or may not work for others.

First off, remove the pass footrest from it's mounting point. If you have a '75 or '76 model CB360, there is likely a welded nut on the backside. This needs to be cut off.

IMAG1017_zpsdd1b51d4.jpg


Next up, remove the brake light cable, and remove its mounting bracket.

IMAG1018_zps8c3b56cc.jpg


Remove the stock brake pivot tube which runs through the frame. Disengage the brake actuating cable from it's mounting point by removing the small pin that holds it in there. DO NOT LOSE THIS PIN.

Here is the Brake side Rear Set put together:
IMAG1019_zps48f36963.jpg


Slide the pivot assembly through hole in the frame like so:
IMAG1020_zpsb15e3da6.jpg


Attach the brake pedal arm:
IMAG1021_zps46f7631d.jpg


Now, this is the part that got really frustrating. On the CB360 the pivot assembly (on the inside) needs to be in a near vertical position. Because of this it is IMPOSSIBLE to insert that pin that I said not to lose back through the brake actuating cable.

Here is the black pivot arm mounted. You can see the 1/2" clearance on either side simply is not enough room to attach the actuating cable.
IMAG1022_zps6ce90c62.jpg


You have two ways around this:

1.) Drop the swingarm from the get-go. I didn't want to bother with this but it would give you a lot more access for the install.

2.) Remove the inner black arm on the brake pivot assembly and drop it down. Attach the brake actuating cable and pin to the pivot arm this way. Once that's installed, slide the arm back up to its mounting point and mount it. Insert screw and tighten everything up.

I chose option 2. I really do not know of ANY other alternatives to do this on a complete bike.

Once the pivot arm and actuating cable are assembled, re-attach the spring like so:
IMAG1024_zps05021e09.jpg


Assemble the brake side foot rest assembly:
IMAG1023_zps4bb96c09.jpg


Check the distance of your all-thread and cut down as necessary depending on your mounting location. Once that's done, just connect the endlinks, re-attach the brake light spring, and you're done (with one side)!

IMAG1025_zps6a7d8a35.jpg


SHIFTING SIDE

Start by removing the stock shifter and set aside for re-use.

IMAG1028_zps3caec0c3.jpg


Remove passenger footpeg assembly. This also has the welded nut on the rear. You will once again need to remove this nut.

IMAG1029_zpsb4cf316a.jpg


When both mufflers are removed, take off the stock foot rest. There is a pin that slides through to support both foot rests. This will now slide out.

IMAG1031_zpsa356d995.jpg


At first I thought my kit was missing a part. Turns out OSS does NOT supply the modified shifter arm. At first I was bummed, then I realized it was a VERY simple fix. You know how I said to set aside the stock shifter? Well now you're going to use it. Mock up your rear sets as needed for your setup and mark on the stock shift lever where the endlink naturally falls. Be cognizant of the movement in both directions to make sure you have clearance on the frame. Once you have your measurements, cut the stock shifter down, drill a hole, and round off the edges to make it as nice of a finish as possible:

IMAG1033_zpsbecb91c1.jpg


Attach the endlinks on both ends and you're almost home!

IMAG1036_zps0af5184b.jpg


Now, on the brake side, I was able to run the rear endlink on the INSIDE and the front endlink on the OUTSIDE. This leaves a little bit more room for your foot. However, on the shift side, the lever was either going to gouge my exhaust OR my frame. I also could not use the lowest mount on the shifter side. That said, I did end up running BOTH endlink ends on the OUTSIDE. This offered the most clearance and ease of assembly.

IMAG1037_zpsbf4f092f.jpg


All done!
IMAG1039_zps9b7e77ee.jpg


All in all, Im extremely impressed with the rear sets. For the price, I feel that the shifting arm should be included, but it really is a simple home remedy to sort that out. Mad props to Kris for making a nice product and helping the community.

-Matt
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Build Thread (Update 3/16 Rear Set Install)

BIG shoutout to Wangofree for tons of pics and answering my questions in his build thread. It helps to be going through similar parts of a project on the same bike at the same time. :)

-Matt
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Build Thread (Update 3/16 Rear Set Install)

I want to see a complete side profile now that you have put the bars and rearsets on. Should look like w whole new bike I bet. Don't make me drive over to ogle the bike. FULL pic please :)

Gary
 
Re: 1976 Honda CB360T - Build Thread (Update 3/16 Rear Set Install)

Got (nearly) everything back together and buttoned up! My buddy came over again today to help me get everything back together. The bike was down for 3 weeks and it started on the 3rd kick. Not bad, IMO.

Anyways, my phone was dead so I didnt take process pics, but here it is currently.

photo-2_zps456831b8.jpg


photo3-2_zps7bf2f9f9.jpg


photo1-1_zps1062c778.jpg


photo2-2_zpseb1ce65d.jpg


I have new headlight ears and a hooded Lucas taillight ordered that will be put on this week. The master cylinder is off and being rebuilt. Everything is apart, just need to put it back together, bleed the brakes, and reinstall.

Overall, I LOVE the look of the bike. I wont be doing a cafe seat anytime soon. Im really enjoying the "resto-mod" look it has right now. :)

-Matt
 
Back
Top Bottom