Victoria! Zeke's CB175 Build
- Thread starter Texasstar
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here is a PERFECTLY placed brake pedal/rod pull
it was very critical with these bikes because of the long suspension travel
also notice the very tight, close to the pivot c/s sprocket, maico was first mfg to do this,early on they even used a seperate 3rd output countershaft just to get it close
it minimized chain slack variations
it was very critical with these bikes because of the long suspension travel
also notice the very tight, close to the pivot c/s sprocket, maico was first mfg to do this,early on they even used a seperate 3rd output countershaft just to get it close
it minimized chain slack variations
xb33bsa said:here is a PERFECTLY placed brake pedal/rod pull
it was very critical with these bikes because of the long suspension travel
also notice the very tight, close to the pivot c/s sprocket, maico was first mfg to do this,early on they even used a seperate 3rd output countershaft just to get it close
it minimized chain slack variations
Perfect
Wait a minute. I have enough force multiplication applied through lever moment. I have 3/8" movement on the pedal at full bottomed out stance. I have removed the shocks and lowered frame down while spinning tire and had zero drag applied to the shoes. My biggest hurdle was bump stop brake due to lever weight. Hence the spring sprang sprung on lever.xb33bsa said:
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Personally I found bump operation of badly designed rear brake to be a major issue when trying to ride fast so totaly refuse to set mine up with rod pivot that far back.
I had a 1980 'Alpha One' Maico 490 for 8 yrs, rear brake was very easy to use compared with many other contemporary MX bikes (and newer ones) The 250 is a later model with reed valve induction, redesigned suspension and Ohlins instead or early design with Corto Cosse (as used bt Ferrari ;D )
Until you ride something with properly designed set up you just don't know how bad what you have is.
I had a 1980 'Alpha One' Maico 490 for 8 yrs, rear brake was very easy to use compared with many other contemporary MX bikes (and newer ones) The 250 is a later model with reed valve induction, redesigned suspension and Ohlins instead or early design with Corto Cosse (as used bt Ferrari ;D )
Until you ride something with properly designed set up you just don't know how bad what you have is.
dualero
Been Around the Block
No. The cable is the mechanical solution to brake bump, as the limit of stretch in a cable setup is the length of the cable housing. I think it's a bit less organized but, helps solve the issue completely without having to migrate to disc brakes.simo said:
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simo
Been Around the Block
HEBO used to do a hydraulic clutch conversion ,the slave had a wire pull (there are similar pit bike versions that I think work on incomparable oil, not brake fluid) but there are probably other small bore pull slaves that would give you a hydraulic drum without too much fabrication
If it's race legal ?
If it's race legal ?
Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
Ok guys back brakes are dialed in. New pads come in today for the front and then we can start safety wiring. We will be sending our other liners back for the race compound liners...we want to do stoppies 
Any tips and tricks on safety wiring would be appreciated. We installed a new magnetic drain plug that is pre drilled and so was our vent filler plug. Kop said to use old cheap Chinese sockets for jigs! Was thinking one of the cheap harbor freight little vices and a drill press for the socket bolts?
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Any tips and tricks on safety wiring would be appreciated. We installed a new magnetic drain plug that is pre drilled and so was our vent filler plug. Kop said to use old cheap Chinese sockets for jigs! Was thinking one of the cheap harbor freight little vices and a drill press for the socket bolts?Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
SONICJK
Reminds me of...me No, I'm sure of it. I hate him
I find the key to drilling anything round is a good center punch and a drill press viseTexasstar said:Ok guys back brakes are dialed in. New pads come in today for the front and then we can start safety wiring. We will be sending our other liners back for the race compound liners...we want to do stoppies
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Cables are the only way to go.......
Use a drill press and buy 1/16" drill bits in bulk. If I have space I sometimes just cross drill the head from one flat to teh one opposite, but if I want it to look more professional I start the hole on one flat and when it's about 1/16 to 1/8" deep I rotate the bolt so that the drill bit is now drill from that flat to the one next to it.
If you don't have a jig, grab a slab of say 1" x 1" steel and drill and tap a few holes for say 6mm x 1.0mm, 8x 1.25 etc for the common sizes and use that to screw the bolts into to hold them still as you drill them. Use a nut on teh other side to resist rotation if necessary. And did I mention, but lots of drill bits. They tend to be a little fragile and as things move they fall apart. Maybe there are some tougher Texan drill bits that can handle more stress.
Use a drill press and buy 1/16" drill bits in bulk. If I have space I sometimes just cross drill the head from one flat to teh one opposite, but if I want it to look more professional I start the hole on one flat and when it's about 1/16 to 1/8" deep I rotate the bolt so that the drill bit is now drill from that flat to the one next to it.
If you don't have a jig, grab a slab of say 1" x 1" steel and drill and tap a few holes for say 6mm x 1.0mm, 8x 1.25 etc for the common sizes and use that to screw the bolts into to hold them still as you drill them. Use a nut on teh other side to resist rotation if necessary. And did I mention, but lots of drill bits. They tend to be a little fragile and as things move they fall apart. Maybe there are some tougher Texan drill bits that can handle more stress.
