'71 T500

solid plan on the petcock, I rebuilt mine (gt250) but its still caused some headache, and I usually just end up having to run it in the "prime" position anyhow. I also am running a repop air box boot with no issues to date.

You may have to mess with those lines a bit though to make sure you get them flushed and the check valves work. Those are a pretty important component to the oil lubrication system.
 
HURCO550 said:
You may have to mess with those lines a bit though to make sure you get them flushed and the check valves work. Those are a pretty important component to the oil lubrication system.

Hoping to avoid messing with them much. Thinking they are pretty brittle at this point.

Did get the crankcase oil changed today, but not much else.
 
HURCO550 said:
You may have to mess with those lines a bit though to make sure you get them flushed and the check valves work. Those are a pretty important component to the oil lubrication system.

You got details on how this process works? I'm at the same point in my build.
 
I ran some WD 40 through mine, from the pump side
Had to bend the plastic straw to line it with the hole in the banjo


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HURCO550 said:
Good idea with the oil. Don't panic if it doesn't change to the new color right away. The oil doesn't run through those things in a very quick hurry. Also, be very careful with those plastic oil feed lines, they are hard to find if you break them. I used a cheap harbor freight oil pump with alcohol to flush mine out, but remember they have little check valves in the union where it splits off. Fluid should only flow one direction.

Good info, I will be following this procedure on the RV.
 
Sonreir™ said:
You got details on how this process works? I'm at the same point in my build.

advCo said:
Good info, I will be following this procedure on the RV.

this is from a gt250, but it is a very similar oil pump setup......

Upon inspection, I realized that the check valves were stuck and allowing crank pressure to back feed air into the lines, along with the original plastic banjo washers not sealing right.

7356739edc0bc85b056cea8dbb9a2d50.jpg


I used a harbor freight oil can with alcohol (the stuff you get at the drug store) to flush the lines abs get the gunk out of the check valves. After some thorough flushing, the check valves were back in order, and I then purged the lines out with another pump can of 2 smoke oil.
15141de9e0cd9564b5b1590a31202bff.jpg


I then replaced the plastic washers with stat-o-seal banjo fitting washers which are a common upgrade from plastic or copper.
89df6ff24de59e10bfa00969177629f2.jpg


These are the el cheapo cans I used for the project. its cheap enough to buy two, one for alcohol and one for the 2 stroke oil.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html

You basically put the tapered end in the banjo fitting at the pump end and bock off the "other side" of the same banjo fitting with your finger and pump it right through. I was going to turn a piece in the lathe to basically adapt the banjo fitting at the one end right to the oil can, but I didn't... ha
 
If you are taking the the engine apart I would not neglect changing the center crank seal. I did when I built mine and it was a big mistake, had to strip the engine again and replace it. Do it then forget about it.
 
HURCO550 said:
this is from a gt250, but it is a very similar oil pump setup......

Upon inspection, I realized that the check valves were stuck and allowing crank pressure to back feed air into the lines, along with the original plastic banjo washers not sealing right.

Great stuff in that post Hurco550. Have an HF about 10 minutes from here, so off I go.

Interested in your statement above about "upon inspection." How do I inspect them to know whether mine are also weak/stuck? Can get the banjo seals at Earl's on Gasoline Alley, so will likely follow your lead on replacing those too.
 
Oh, forgot to add that I tried to hook up a battery yesterday and had no lights, etc. Started following the wiring, found there was no fuse--the PO had just slapped the two connectors together bypassing the fuse.

Went to open the headlight bucket and found it held together with wood screws.

Got the correct fuse, got better leads to hook up the battery and viola! Neutral light comes on when the key is on.

Didn't leave the key on long as I've read you can damage the coils if the key is left on more than a minute, but it does appear that I might be able to try starting it once I get the oil lines primed.

I did read your post, Johnu, and I'm not tearing the engine down at present. I really want to see if it will run and what needs to be done to get it back to proper shape if it does. I understand it is getting difficult to find the crankseals. Did you have any trouble getting it rebuilt?
 
oldrookie said:
Great stuff in that post Hurco550. Have an HF about 10 minutes from here, so off I go.

Interested in your statement above about "upon inspection." How do I inspect them to know whether mine are also weak/stuck? Can get the banjo seals at Earl's on Gasoline Alley, so will likely follow your lead on replacing those too.

Thanks man. I simply watched the oil lines after i fired it up and saw air going back from the banjo fittings on the case (aka the wrong way)

An easy test to see if the check valves are stuck would be to block one end of the banjo fittings where it bolts to the case and pump oil back towards the pump from the other fitting. Oil should not go past the union where the check valve is. If it does, continue to flush the lines with alcohol till they are goop free and start to seat again. Continue testing til the desired results are achieved.

I bought those seals through, mc-master carr. If you can get them locally I guarantee that they will be cheaper lol

Once it is time to fire it up, it is a good idea to run some pre mix in the tank until everthing is thoroughly purged out in the auto lube system. It will be a bit rich with oil, but to much oil is the lesser of two evils than not enough.

Also, remember that the oil pump doesn't move fluid very rapidly, especially at idle, so don't panic if you don't see whatever little air bubbles you have left moving through the system in a hurry.

there is a procedure to 'calibrate" your pump to the throttle opening as well. There should be a threaded cap over the slide tube on one carb. upon removal, you open the cap to view the slide. you open the slide til you can see a mark on the slide and at that position the arm on the oil pump should be lined up at a mark on the pump itself..
 
oldrookie said:
I understand it is getting difficult to find the crankseals. Did you have any trouble getting it rebuilt?

seals aren't hard to find for these really, this is just an ebay set for the whole motor, but individuals can be had as well from numerous parts houses

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-T500-Oil-Seal-Kit-Engine-Titan-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-1974-1975-/382073965595?hash=item58f5620c1b:g:gpEAAOSw5VFWHauO&vxp=mtr
 
oldrookie said:
Thank you. Again, great information. Appreciate your willingness to help a newb.

Hey no worries man, glad I can be of help. That's what makes this forum great, people helping each other. And I also really wanna see this thing back on the road =)
 
HURCO550 said:
Hey no worries man, glad I can be of help. That's what makes this forum great, people helping each other. And I also really wanna see this thing back on the road =)

I hope you are a patient man. ;D
 
I sent my crank to Bill Bune to do the strip and seal install. i had trouble getting one of the seals but i can remember which one.
 
johnu said:
I sent my crank to Bill Bune to do the strip and seal install. i had trouble getting one of the seals but i can remember which one.

What was the cost on that, if you don't mind me asking?
 
johnu said:
I sent my crank to Bill Bune to do the strip and seal install. i had trouble getting one of the seals but i can remember which one.
Bill bune has a great reputation for sure. I've never heard much bad about his work

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